I Need Help with L-Jet / AFC Fuel Injection Topic FAQ

TGOT · Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:43 pm Post subject:

I really don't know what failed internally but I do know I was all over the engine with a propane bottle on a hose searching for vacuum leaks. Among other things I went through the AFC manuals procedure on testing injectors and seemed ok. After using that smoke machine I could see UV smoke dye collecting around the ring of metal to plastic contact. I changed out my OG injectors for NOS and it my idle problems went away. While it could have been leaking fuel and I missed it or it could have been something else wrong with the injectors I am just glad its not a problem.

SGKent · Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:

TGOT · Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:57 pm Post subject:

I bought them off a parts supplier that retired with his stock in Boone NC. When I lived in town we became good friends so he showed me the "goodie box" I think I paid $320 for the set of four plus one. I think he has more I could ask about.

johnlynch47 · Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:47 am Post subject:

http://youtu.be/x8php_kWsw0
Did a video, Here is me starting my motor, 5 times, key only didnt turn it off or touch the gas pedal, also i have found when the air has any kind of moisture in it it runs terrible, especially fog.
I started it tonight and tried chasing a vacuum leak with some carb cleaner, and for some reason tried spraying a little right in the intake and it actually started running consistently.
L-jet, FI
Any thoughts?
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1977 Sage Green Westy up in this!
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busdaddy · Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:59 am Post subject:

SGKent · Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:16 pm Post subject:

fog lowers the oxygen content in the air. You may be really lean. I would look first for a vacuum leak. I would also check fuel pressure. Like BusDaddy suggested.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

johnlynch47 · Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:10 pm Post subject:

whats a good fuel pressure gauge to get?
_________________
"My shovel is sharp, my pick is sharp, and my will is outstanding." - Rod Marinelli

"I've got a good heart, but this heart can get ugly" Rapper DMX

"Bring your face over here so I can smack it" My Mom

1977 Sage Green Westy up in this!
her name is Velma
1994 Chevy Silverado - Mater
2006 Kia Sedona - Pearl

SGKent · Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:28 pm Post subject:

you can get one from your FLAPS 0 - 60 psi. Add fitting so the barb is about the same size as the fuel rail on the left side. You gently unscrew the fuel rail plug and slide the hose onto it and clamp it. Put the gauge into the hose and clamp it. Leave it while you are trouble shooting then remove it when you are done and put the plug back in.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

Tymothyson · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 10:27 pm Post subject: some progress

I have been updating you guys on my 1979 California Model Bus. Someone told me to check the coil. I did and found that Bentley's Manual suggests using only a coil#211 905 115C which was made specifically for the Breakerless Transistorized Ignition System.

The ohms in the manual for this special coil don't match up with the Bosch coil #00041 that my mechanic put in (and that Bus Depot lists as compatible with my model bus). My current coil (00041) I have reads the right ohms.

My bus did run more than 20 seconds tonight when I replaced the ignition control module with an aftermarket Meyle one, but it eventually struggled, then finally stalled. This was an improvement over the immediate stalling of my old Ignition control unit.

Any ideas?

Westfabulous · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 10:51 pm Post subject:

You give so little detail of how your symptoms occur, when they occur, what it sounds and feels like, etc. It will be near impossible to make progress at this rate. I mistakenly asked you (in a previous post) to pull the connector off your CSV on a cold start. Try this, it will take thirty seconds: on a cold start only, pull the connector off your Auxillary Air Regulator, then start the engine. Give it no gas at all. Tell us if the idle holds without conking out. If this is primarily a cold start issue (????), then we will find out if it is air related via this quick test.

If this doesn't result in a steady idle, please post a video or give a very detailed description of what is happening. Good luck.
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Tymothyson · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: CSV & AAR

Westafabulous,

Do you pull connectors off both the CSV and AAR on the same cold start?

I did try pulling the plug off the CSV, but it was after I had already cranked and stalled a few times. In that case, it didn't make a difference, but I didn't pull the plug off the AAR as well.

Westfabulous · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 8:00 am Post subject: Re: CSV & AAR

SGKent · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 8:02 am Post subject:

Will it continue to run if you hold the throttle more open?
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

Tymothyson · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 9:37 pm Post subject: cold start

I pulled the plug on the AAR. It was difficult to get the engine started, but it ran for about 30 seconds and then it stalled. I don't know if that constitutes the warm up phase. I attempted to start it after that and it was still difficult to start, and would only idle for 5 seconds or so.

Westfabulous · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 11:22 pm Post subject: Re: cold start

SGKent · Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 11:04 am Post subject:

Tymothyson · Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 5:58 pm Post subject: cold start issue

The engine struggles to keep running, especially on the first, cold start. It sounds like it is struggling while running and while it stalls. When I crank it immediately after, it will start up, but run for less time each consecutive time (and when it stalls each consecutive time, the stall is more immediate).

I have been doing my testing with the catalytic converter off, and the O2 sensor dangling. I hope this isn't effecting anything, since the manual said the sensor only starts working when it is 300 degrees?

MadFrankie · Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 4:01 pm Post subject:

Right guys, it's finally stopped raining enough to get out and back on the vans FI problem.

I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and got my wife to turn the engine and nothing, no pressure what so ever.

So looks like either a fuel pump or power to the fuel pump problem. Whats the easiest way to test power to the pump before I shell out for a new pump?


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I Need Help with L-Jet / AFC Fuel Injection Topic FAQ
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