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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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If it has mushroomed at all then by continuing to try to remove it you will be scoring the bore in the case. At this point I would suggest you stop the removal attempt and move on. |
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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(drops slide hammer and contraption to attach it to lifter)
Just kidding, but the thought did cross my mind.
If this sucker is mushroomed, I do get it to pump up, button it up and call it good.... how long before this band aid falls apart?
I love the waterboxer, but sometimes I wish I went Bostig. The notion of new everything from mechanics to electrical weighs on my mind. Sure rebuilding this thing was a priceless learning experience, but was it worth always having a breakdown in the back of your mind?
Well unless I get some gas fraking well money, I'm VW all the way now... _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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hero419 wrote: |
(drops slide hammer and contraption to attach it to lifter)
Just kidding, but the thought did cross my mind.
If this sucker is mushroomed, I do get it to pump up, button it up and call it good.... how long before this band aid falls apart? |
Hard to say. I chipped a hunk off a lifter on my Toyota Land Cruiser back in the early eighties. Replaced the lifter and just lived with the horribly scored cam, yet was able to drive it for years afterwards on a 40 mile commute. I still use it as a yard vehicle and have never fixed it. It amazes me every time I start it up. |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10248 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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My lifters took some work to get out as well. I used a strong magnet and probably pushed each in and pulled out at least a dozen times before they came out enough to pull the rest of the way out. Was a circle of grundge/varnish that came off easily, but as mentioned the tolerances are quite tight. Once I realized how much of a pain to pull out (this engine sat and these are original lifters) I resigned myself to pulling and pushing repeatedly - some took 50 cycles.
Your hook only pulled on one side of the lifter and it doesn't surprise me it would not come out as they'll easily bind with a side load like that. Don't lose faith yet - get a stronger magnet. Just thinking through the force required to mushroom this makes me not accept it has happened here as the top probability. I think it's just a really grundged in part.
The carb cleaner is not the best as it's a highly evaporative product and won't be doing anything after its 3 minute evap. PB Blaster in there is what it took on mine. It's oily and will continue to work. Seriously, I think it will come out after some tedious fiddling. I had no heads on and was using a strong telescoping magnet. In and out. PB it move on to another while it soaked is how I did it.
DougM _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:49 am Post subject: |
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Still raining....
Now with the sun going down so early, I may have to wait for the weekend to get back at it... _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Got another shot at it last night and today.
LAST NIGHT
Never got the lifter out.
put it back together with a collapsible push rod tube.
Took a while to get all the rods lined up.
Adjusted all the valves 1 turn in except for the problem lifter.
ran it till it heated up.
TODAY.
Took the cover off and checked the adjustment.
Found a loose lifter that shouldn't be and adjusted it.
Started it and it sounded like a rock was in the motor. (never heard that noise before)
Took the cover off, adjusted them all again.
Started it and the rock noise was there but went away.
All cylinders are firing.
went up and down the (long, steep) driveway have more power then before but not 100%
I'll go for a longer ride later when the kids aren't napping.
I might try to find someone to look at it. This $hit is getting old.
Maybe I'll just winterize it and tackle it in the spring. _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:49 am Post subject: |
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question about TDC and valve adjustment.
Why is it necessary to make sure the piston is at TDC while adjusting the valves?
wouldn't it be safe to adjust both valves per piston anywhere during the compression and power stroke?
It's easy to find this. just watch for the exhaust valve to close and anywhere after that both valves should be fully closed until the intake finally opens.
The lifter should be on the root diameter of the cam lobe.
Right or wrong? _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 9:36 am Post subject: |
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hero419 wrote: |
question about TDC and valve adjustment.
Why is it necessary to make sure the piston is at TDC while adjusting the valves?
wouldn't it be safe to adjust both valves per piston anywhere during the compression and power stroke?
It's easy to find this. just watch for the exhaust valve to close and anywhere after that both valves should be fully closed until the intake finally opens.
The lifter should be on the root diameter of the cam lobe.
Right or wrong? |
This is correct. On most any engine, all the valves can be adjusted with the engine just in two positions. However it is so easy to turn a VW engine over I just find it easier to go to TDC for each cylinder. There is certainly no reason one has to be absolutely exact in finding TDC, like in horse shoe, close counts. |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10248 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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Hero,
I was just thinking about you. I was going to suggest you try what I used at some point which were a pair or long nosed internal snap ring pliers. Got a nice grip. Then I remembered the head is in the way, but wondered if you might still fit them, or literally take a cheap pair and lop the handles off with a hacksaw.
Doug _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for thinking of me.
I think I am going to go back through and do another full adjustment.
Maybe something is off.
Also, just messing with it the other day, the metal case around the spark plug wire fell off. I wonder if that does anything. If I pull that wire off, the engine runs ruff so it is getting spark to the plug.
I think I'll get it, it is just going to take time.
If I cant get it, maybe I'll yank the motor and have a winter project. _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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