SpeedVagon.. NOT

a1fa · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:01 pm Post subject:

Look what I pulled out today..

CYL #2 Spark Plug
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[email protected] · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:11 pm Post subject:

YIKES!

at least you are digging in and fixing all the stuff that is wrong....
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a1fa · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:22 pm Post subject:

Runnin' a bit rich? Sparkplugs should be here tomorrow.. PB down the sparkplugs to loosen 'em up before I try getting them out? Gap should be .7mm?
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a1fa · Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:07 am Post subject:

Last night I took the distributor cap off, and played with sand paper, and got it cleaned up a little bit. I put it back according to the marks it engraved in the case..

Two things: how do I verify the initial timing is correct, and how do I tell that my vacuum advance is working? Rolling Eyes

What do you think about:

SAE 30R9 1/4" fuel hose to replace the braided lines?
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reluctantartist · Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:24 pm Post subject:

You do have a timing light? And a tach/dwell meter? Also you will need to get you air fuel mixture adjusted once you have all the vacuum leaks fixed. You mixture has probably been adjusted to compensate for the leaks.
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a1fa · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:32 am Post subject:

Huh-hoh.. Tough weekend. I got my main source of vacuum leak fixed. The intake boot. The thing is running superb now. It actually has some power. New spark plugs, new manifold boots as well.. I put a big bad ass knot on my palm from twisting one of them in.. after that i decided that lubrication should have been doing all the hard work... i also made sure the vacuum advance works.. eww dirty job. also, the throttle body got a nice scrub, and i eliminated all the crud on it. it operates much better. in addition to, while I was down there, i eliminated the EGR linkage completely. Wink

there are couple of things left to fix... i think the idle is a bit high, but the van runs amazing... i drove it to work today, and not once did it hunt or gasp.

the intake boot was cracked in the usual spot. man, i love this thing.

on to do list:
- replace remaining old hoses.
- fix the gas tank vent hoses (gowesty kit)
- clean the gas tank
- eliminate pre-fliter
- maybe get a new fuel pump, since i am already down there
- replace all fuel lines with SAE 30R9
- alternator belt before it cracks

now its time to order the gowesty pre-filter elimination kit, and vent tube kit.

Very Happy

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a1fa · Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 7:23 am Post subject:

Some more pictures of my SpeedVagon:

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bluefirefly · Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:33 pm Post subject:

Your ride looks real nice.
I am sure oyu are happy now that it is running better.
Your old fuel lines should be your priority #1, be careful with those.
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86 Syncro Vanagon
almost re-done....

a1fa · Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:51 pm Post subject:

I am on vacation, putting in more hours @ work, then when not on vacation. I'll get those ordered tomorrow. I'll also order a new gas tank, and new fuel level sensor. Not sure if I want to go ahead get a new pump.. I can hear her whining.

- Fuel Tank
- Fuel Fuel Lines to the engine/on the engine.
- Pre-Filter Elimination
- New Filter..

Answered my own question with search button.. Relay upgrade on the Headlights Smile

Thoughts on: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=150047
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a1fa · Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:06 pm Post subject:

I found a used longblock for $800. Is that a good price for a decent core that can be rebuilt?
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reluctantartist · Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 6:49 pm Post subject:

Alfa, did the fuel pump start to wine after replacing fuel line? If so it may be a kink in the new line causing cavitation in the pump. Is that 800 for a complete engine with heater boxes fuel system and all? Otherwise that too much for just a core. If it is just a long block, then the engine better be running ok with good compression that does not need a rebuild at the moment.
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

dobryan · Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 6:53 pm Post subject:

Andrew A. Libby · Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:17 pm Post subject:

a1fa · Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:54 am Post subject:

a1fa · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:03 pm Post subject:

pre-filter elimination or not? I am ordering new parts to fix my gas tank vent hoses, and fuel sending unit. should i eliminate pre-filter as well?
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a1fa · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:45 am Post subject:

I managed to change my alternator over the weekend. After 40 miles of stretching, I can hear it. Needs to be adjusted today. This morning the van would not start -- at all... The night before, I notice idle was too low, so i moved it 1/8th of a turn before starting it... and it would not start.. backing out 1/8th turn.. no start either.. To makes things worse, the vagon started making the key is in ignition with the door open noise for the first time ever.... several cranks later... it finally started, and i let it idle for 3 minutes before adjusting the idle..... Twisted Evil

it was not cold outside 60F.. i've started it on much colder days. It rained all night last night.. but it had rained before... battery was strong.... once it started I noticed that my #6 and #7 fuses are crusted over.. got them out and put new ones in.. now my fuel gauge lights up, and i can turn overhead light, however, it does not turn-on when the door opens.. Idea

the day before that I did move my ignition timing, but i think it's set right, the van is running faster then ever. it feels like it has alot more top end, and mid-range, but slightly less low end... it started and run fine after that change. i have been driving it for 4 days on that change with no issues.
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morymob · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:56 pm Post subject:

Factory timing marks on 'all' engines mean they determined if u set it there it should run well but due to mfg variations in tolerances, wear, not all parts end up equal. A bit of trial tweaking will get to the best point on any type engine, this i do on all and all showed improvements.

a1fa · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject:

I figured out my problem. I tweaked the AF idle enrichment screw and forgot to back it out. After resting ignition timing, and idle adjustment I forgot to do the AF screw.. It worked fine for 2 days before it actually manifested itself as a problem, on a colder day. Embarassed

With timing set, idle screw all the way in, and backed out to perfect 880 RPM. idle enrichment screw set, and had to-redo the idle screw... hopefully I got it just right this time. Going to wait for next real cold start..

Oh, my neighbor came by today. He told me he has worked all his life on VW Vanagon and that my left cylinder head is loose... Rolling Eyes

and that the pistons are slapping around.. Shocked

... but then again, we know that cant be true, because the noise he was hearing was a rusted exhaust mount slapping against the body of the vagon.. Very Happy

oh and that my bad start was due to lack of compression..

after i made all these adjustments, when I turn my key, the van starts after 4 revolutions..
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a1fa · Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:40 pm Post subject:

Today I ordered about $750 worth of parts; new fuel pump, fuel pre-filter elimination kit from go-westy, led lights for the dash, luggage seal, speedo cable, fuel tank seal kit, couple of all around bulbs, busdepot high output light kit, and OEM exhaust replacement from busdepot. This pretty much takes care of the remaining issues and xmas gets here early. I could've saved $50 on the fuel pump, but oh well.. (busdepot has BOSCH fuelpumps for $119).... this pump will last for another 30 years or so.. so I am set... small investment for a piece of mind....

Now, back to the cold start issue.. Previous owner over-compensated for vacuum leaks by completely adjusting the idle enrichement screw. With those gone, I wanted to adjust my idle. Without an o2 sensor, I am pretty much SOL, and had to "wing" it... the van starts and idles fine, however, i dont trust that I have configured correctly as two wrongs could make it right.

What is a baseline? What makes sense? Do you enrich it, and let air in via idle screw? What do you do? I got about 3 turns out on the enrichment screw and about 3 turns on the idle screw.. Embarassed

It runs, but I am sure any combination of these turns could make it run -- fine.
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a1fa · Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 6:36 pm Post subject:

shox.. gowesty is out of fuel tank sealing kits.... what is the next best alternative?
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