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1970 Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal FAQ
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70Crew
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:03 pm    Post subject: 1970 Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal FAQ Reply with quote

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1970 Ignition Switch Removal
210 2001 001 > 210 2300 00
Note: the 70 ignition housing. The part the Ign Switch (electrical part) and Lock cylinder (the key goes in) is a one year only part.



I am trying to remove the ignition/starter switch from the ignition housing. I have 2 '70 switches/housings and was able to get one out but don't know how (and don't see how it will go back together). As far as I can tell, the 1970 ignition switch is a one year only part, so the Bentley isn't helping me. It does mention the 70 switch but the directions don't make sense to me.

Bentley says that for cars with a steering column lock, you are supposed to turn the switch to the drive position before trying to remove it. I don't have keys for either switch so I can't do that step. I am wondering if that is the underlying problem here? Having said that, I think the second switch was left in the drive position, I don't see the pin sticking out of the hole into the tube ("H"), whereas the locking pin sticks out of the first switch, as you can see in the 3rd photo down.

("A") is a small pin that was out of the first ignition switch housing when I tried to remove it initially from the housing. I couldn't figure out where it came from until I pulled the second housing/switch, and then I saw where it goes. It almost looks like this pin is what secures the lock cylinder in the switch, but it looks too short to connect with any part of the cylinder when it is inserted into the housing. After fiddling with the first housing for 15 minutes, I inserted a key into the tumbler, pulled it out, and the tumbler came with it. Once the tumbler is out, the switch slides out of the housing.

Now I am trying to get the ignition out of the second housing (the one I want to restore and use). I have removed the small pin in this one, and also removed both the small and large set screws ("F" and "G"). With the tumbler still in the switch, I see no way to pull it out, and sticking a key in there and pulling on it isn't dislodging the tumbler like the other one did.

Long story short - how do I get the switch out of the second housing? If doing so requires removing the tumbler, how do I get that out, and then how do I re-secure it? Any tips on what the function of the small set screw and small pin are would be helpful.

On a semi-related matter - the first tumbler has german writing on the face for lock, accessory and start and drive. That came off a 1970 crew cab. The other one has no writing on it ("E"), and is off a 1970 camper. Did all trucks have the ignition switch positions stamped in German?

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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:32 pm    Post subject: ignition Reply with quote

You are very close to getting this done.

The small plug (A) Needs to be removed and then you can use a wire about the size of a metal "coat hanger"And insert it in the hole and push
until it releases (C)

The reason you need the key in the switch is to help you when pulling it out.as you push the wire in against the black metal strip.
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70Crew
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding. Sometimes you work on these things for so long you can't see the forest for the trees. Thanks.... worked like a charm!

Next related question. Now that I have the two ignition tumblers out they are obviously (but just slightly) different. The one I pulled from my crew cab has german writing on it so it would look cool on my restoration. However, everything else suggests it's a non-OEM replacement - no manufacturer or part number, no key code, larger key hole size on the back side, plus it looks like someone modified it so it would fit (see arrow). I'd love to re-use the one with german writing, especially if it is correct for a truck, but without a key code I'm not sure how I would get a new key cut. Anyone run into this?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glad to hear you were successful. Old DKP Driver knows his stuff.

I seem to recall that on the next year model, 1971, you have to make a tool like this to reach that hole as it is hidden from view. The dime is to show the size of the bend that goes around the lock to pull on the black spring loaded part of the tumbler. I've had this one made of old coathanger since I replaced a lock on my 1971 back about 1977.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The writing on the "Crew Cab" switch is Portuguese or Spanish and not German.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good call.... Partida is start, Trava is lock in spanish. I noticed that VW Heritage UK is selling what looks to be the same tumbler.

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Barrel-key-ign...try_GB.htm
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next question..... The lock cylinder off the '70 camper has a part # of 211-905-855. When I looked that up on the microfiche it had an M code next to it of M248. That M-code is "Ignition-starter switch without steering lock".
That makes sense; the camper ignition switch didn't have the spring-loaded locking post sticking out..... but my crew cab does. I was planning on using the cylinder from the camper since it is OE, but am now wondering if it will activate the column lock. Since I don't have the key I have no way of testing it. Will it work?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: 1970 Ignition Lock interchangeability? Reply with quote

No lock experts out there?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:31 pm    Post subject: lock out Reply with quote

There are only 2 people here that i know of that may be able to cut you a key.

Gabriel sells here in the classifieds as well as Justin but,
i just read Gab's note and he is way to busy until after
November.

Justin goes by the name in the classifieds as "SteelersBus"
and he is in Pennsylvania

just go to the classified and type in keys Wink
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70Crew
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks oldDKP, I've seen the ads for having keys cut and plan to do that once I determine which lock cylinder I can use. I was hoping someone would know if these two cylinders are interchangeable, but that may be too technical for the forums. If that's the case I'll buy a key and test the 211-905-855 cylinder. If it isn't compatible I guess I'll have a lock cylinder with new key to sell..... just trying to work smart and avoid throwing more money at this beast if I don't have to.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a locksmith here in Oklahoma that cuts VW keys from codes for 25 dollars. If needed. I took him my lock from my square, he looked at the code and cut me a perfect key for it.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MiOdy81 wrote:
Next question..... The lock cylinder off the '70 camper has a part # of 211-905-855. When I looked that up on the microfiche it had an M code next to it of M248. That M-code is "Ignition-starter switch without steering lock".
That makes sense; the camper ignition switch didn't have the spring-loaded locking post sticking out..... but my crew cab does. I was planning on using the cylinder from the camper since it is OE, but am now wondering if it will activate the column lock. Since I don't have the key I have no way of testing it. Will it work?

Insert a standard screw driver where the lock cylinder is suppose to go and use it like a key, you should be able to see the colum activate.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I broke down and bought a key for the 211-905-855 cylinder so I could test it. As it turns out, that cylinder does activate the column lock pin. Not sure why the microfiche lists two different part numbers, but it appears as though these two cylinders are interchangeable.
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SteelersBus
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello! Thanks for the shout out, DKP!

I do cut keys...a key cut for one of those cylinders would have been $17.50 shipped for the first key and $5 for any additional duplicates.

They are interchangeable. Just looks like one is a Brazilian made. Both will function the same.

If ya need any help in the future, gimme a shout!

Thanks! Justin
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Justin, are those cut with the German blanks (the ones with the VW emblem cut in the head) or are they newer repros from ILCO?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MiOdy81 wrote:
Thanks Justin, are those cut with the German blanks (the ones with the VW emblem cut in the head) or are they newer repros from ILCO?


The VW Emblem keys here are not OE German. Here is a picture of the blanks that I have. The generic style and VW Emblem style...both are repros.

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And here is my ad for the keys. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1185446

Thanks! Justin
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, for me to make you a key by code, all I need is the code stamped on the side of the lock. You won't have to ship your lock here to have a key made.

Thanks, Justin
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks 70crew for your pics. They were exactly what I needed to get the tumbler out of my ignition that I have been struggling with for a week.

And thanks to Justin for cutting my keys to code. They all work exactly like they're supposed to. Very happy camper. . .
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BUMP!

Looking for some help.

My ignition switch started having trouble recently so I decided to open it up and check it out. At the same time I wanted to fix my steering wheel lock. It has never worked. But I cannot get my key barrel out. Is there a trick that I am not trying? Does the barrel need to be in a certain position? I am putting a perfect size wire into the hole and I can feel the spring disengage but the lock will not come out. This is an aftermarket lock and I think the PO did something funny.

I just noticed what looks like a roll pin just to the right of the disengage hole. Is that original?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RocketSurgeon wrote:
BUMP!

Looking for some help.

My ignition switch started having trouble recently so I decided to open it up and check it out. At the same time I wanted to fix my steering wheel lock. It has never worked. But I cannot get my key barrel out. Is there a trick that I am not trying? Does the barrel need to be in a certain position? I am putting a perfect size wire into the hole and I can feel the spring disengage but the lock will not come out. This is an aftermarket lock and I think the PO did something funny.

I just noticed what looks like a roll pin just to the right of the disengage hole. Is that original?

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RocketSurgeon,

Did you figure this out? I also have my spring disengaged and the cylinder still won't come out. I'm stumped.
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