Starter or Battery

[Blue66]

With the other "new" starter I did this and the starter cranked so slow it could not start. Once the engine cooled down it would spin fast enough to start. I am hoping that the "new" starter was just binding or faulty when warm. Hopefully my new new starter will be in late today. Besides what has been mentioned what else might cause the starter to crank so slow when engine is warm (3 mile drive)?

[Blue66]

Ok put in new starter, charged my battery up, started right up. Then drove into work for about 2 hours, and went out and again it started right up. Drove home 1.5 miles parked in garage and tried to start right after I shut down and no luck. Waited about 3 minutes and it started right up again. I still feel like I am missing something. Any thoughts?

[Blue66]

Okay the car will only start when the clutch is not engaged, it does start fine when cold, but very tough when even slightly warmed. When I try to start with clutch depressed it will not spin fast enough to catch. Car runs and shifts fine. This issue has gotten progressively worse as time goes on. What are you thoughts?

[Blue66]

No thoughts?

[79SuperVert]

Is the car properly tuned up? Timing, points gap, spark plug gap, valve clearances? All that good stuff correct? Just wondering if you have ruled out all other possible causes of starting problems.
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[Boom]

What does the voltage read at the battery while cranking? What is the voltage at the starter? Check your grounds, especially at the transaxle mount.
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[Blue66]

Checked all grounds new and or cleaned, new optima battery. Set timing with timing light, also checked gaps at points and valves, everything seems fine. Like I said runs fine, I've just run out of thoughts. I know I need to change the rear main seal but I wouldn't think this would cause this problem. Thanks in advance.

[79SuperVert]

What you said is kind of interesting: it starts OK when in neutral, but it has trouble starting when the clutch is depressed. Something to do with the flywheel??
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[VolkswagenVMan]

I am going to toss this in, how is the end play on the crank. I only say this cause it will crank, but will not with the clutch pressed. I had an old rabbit that has starter issues, sometimes would not crank at times. Come to find out that the crank end play was great enough that when shutting the engine off it would stick. This may not be the problem , but just putting it out there.
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[jzjames]

[Blue66]

It does have a bit of end play, which is why the main seal is bad, planned on putting in bigger spacer to reduce the end-play. Of course need to order all the parts anyhow, but could this be the issue? If the end play is that bad (to cause problem) should I even bother changing the spacers out. Our think about rebuilding another block?

[Boom]

Worry with one problem at a time. I doubt the end play will cause a problem unless it's turning over and grinding because of the ring gear being sloppy.
What is the voltage reading while cranking with the clutch just sitting there and the transaxle in neutral?
Check at battery and at starter to see if there is any difference. Also make sure you leave the ground at the battery while doing this. If there is no difference then measure again but this time use the starter case as the ground. If there is less voltage at the starter while using the starter as a ground, check to make sure the ground strap at the front mount is good and tight on both sides.
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[Blue66]

Okay, finally got the chance to check voltage on car after getting it out of storage. Does not start when turning the key, only when pushing the relay at the same time. voltage at battery is 5.98, when cranking drops to about 5.80. On starter prior to cranking 5.97 then while cranking drops down to about 4.5. After driving about 2 miles and shutting off, car will not start! The starter turns to slow to catch (I could turn it faster by hand for example), let it sit 15 minutes and she fires up easily. This is just weird, Any thoughts?

[Blue66]

Any thoughts? Could something be binding that causes the starter to crank slowly?

[Blue66]

Okay, I still have this problem, recently changed out the main seal and checked endplay, which is fine. Checked every connection possible, all grounds good. Load on starter and battery (optima) are also good. Today after driving 1.5 miles and shut car off back to no start. The engine just turns over so slow, it will not start Checked battery under load (5.3 volts). My generator light is on faint, and my horn is very weak, also my turn signals work but only light up at first on dash, then indicator lights stop, but turn signals are working. I am extremely frustrated, this car used to start easily and consistently.

[shortride]

The best thing to do is have the battery load tested.
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[Jon Schmid]

X2 on load testing the battery. While I personally did not have a good experience with my Optima I know I am in the minority and will not bad mouth them. When was the last time you checked your generator output? Or voltage regulator? The only other things I can think of would perhaps be a wonky coil or condenser but I would check one thing at a time, starting with the battery.

[Blue66]

okay, went out and started it with the key (first time in a long time have been able to do that). Had on the charger for a while first though. Battery level prior to start was 6.17, when starting dropped down to 6.5, then back up to 6.17. Reeving the engine did not raise the volts, stayed the same. Pushing on brushes made did not make dash light go out, although gen did get much quieter. Started real easy just turning the key, within 2 seconds. What should the volts on the optima battery be?

[Jon Schmid]

[jzjames]