Stuck Spark Plug

[Irishboy]

Guys I need some advise. I recently purchased a 74 Thing that has been sitting in a shed untouched for 30 years. She is all original including the engine with 46K miles. The engine will turn over by hand, but when I tried to remove the spark plugs, there're stuck. I was going to put a cheater bar on my ratchet and really torque down on them in an attempt to get them out. But, I was afraid I would twist them off in the head, please tell me what you think I should do.

[perello]

before doing that I would leave them a whole night with penetrating oil (kroil) or alike....

If the ratchet is well seated to the spark plug I dont see a danger of breaking it...
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Aug '58 pressed bumper SO23
1974 German Thing
1978 Bug 1200

[GI Joe]

PB BLASTER!!! You can find it at your FLAPS. It's a penetrating oil and works Very well! (WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, don't waste your time).
I Always have a stock of PB blaster on hand in the garage.
I agree with Perello too, spray 'em down and let 'em sit 24 hrs, then spray again and give 'em another 24 hrs..
Then, tread lightly on removal.

Oh, Great find, it sounds like! That "barn find" story that Never happens to me! LOL!
I'd clean it up and keep it as original as possible!
_________________
'74 Thing, "Our Thing"....
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'71 Beetle RPU
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8080337#8080337
www.NLEOMF.com
Respect, Honor, Remember

[Yarkle]

same thing happened to mine...why are things always left sitting in a barn? Usually with goats that eat the top and seats.

X2 on the Kroil..vastly superior to pb blaster...but youve got to let it sit. spray it, tap the plug, spray again, come back the next day, repeat as needed.

that go the plugs about 1/2 way out, then I ended up using loctite freeze and release:

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=43057

i did end up with a bit of stripped thread on the one of the plug holes, but after putting a thread chaser in there, it hasnt been a problem. I can still put a plug in there and it stays put. When i pull the motor im going to put an insert in it.

[Wildthings]

Will the engine run? All sprays are going to have a really hard time getting past the sealing ring on the plugs. If your engine will run dump enough 2 cycle oil into the gas to give you a 50:1 mix. Run the engine for a while with this mix and the oil should slowly work its way up the plug threads. Putting the engine through multiple heat cycles will help as well.

Try loosening the plugs with the engine moderately warm. With the heads fully hot the aluminium gets to be pretty soft and you might pull the threads, but at say 150°F you should be fine.

[Irishboy]

Thanks guys for your help. I've heard of PB Blaster but not Kroil, I'll have look for it. Sure wish I could keep her original but the old girl had some pretty rough treatmemt before I got her. She has an "Ole Miss" (University of Mississippi) parking sticker on her front bumper from 1978, so it looks like while going to college she encounter a little nose damage and had some extra holes drilled in her tail for gosh knows what. So I'll have to paint over that beautiful patina.

[livy]

Here is what I know about aluminum heads and spark plugs. When the bug first came out it was the only engine that the heads were made from Aluminum, and you were told to use only use Bosch plugs as replacement. The reason was not explained however but many people found out very soon after putting in Champion plugs. The Bosch plugs were a lot more money, so must everyone replaced them with the Champion plug. What we didn't know was that the Bosch plugs the thread area was made from a metal that would not seize when hot in aluminum and the Champion did not have this built in feature. So the VW repairman all got fat putting helicoils in VW heads, because when the plug froze and you remove them you pulled the threads right out of the heads along with the plugs. It's been many a hear since all this and maybe this has changed, but I still hear from my racing friends that they have to replace threads in their $10,000 aluminum heads once in a while. I would say if your plugs are seized get ready to read up on helicoil thread replacement. I have seen it done with the heads in place, but it much easier with the heads off.

[Captain Spalding]

Hmmm. I'm running NGK plugs.

[livy]

With all the Jap bikes now using aluminum motors and NKL being their first choice, I don't think you ever have a problem with NKL, but it's Champion and Autolite plugs you have to be careful of.

[livy]

With all the Jap bikes now using aluminum motors and NKL being their first choice, I don't think you ever have a problem with NGK, but it's Champion and Autolite plugs you have to be careful of.

[jimthing]

Had the same exact thing on my '74. All of them were stuck, like hard. The engine was out on a barrel but can be done with engine in.
I was taught this by an ex VW factory mechanic now retired about a mike from me doing mechanic work. His specialty was no lest than type 181 models. lol He indeed soaked solution to loosen threads, just some good brand I think. After letting sit for a few minutes, he the placed a socket on the plugs and a break over handle. He did not force anything, just wiggled it firmly. He repeated this process each time putting a bit more pressure on the wrench. Eventually there was movement. It did break loose, but just budged. He put more thread solution on and turned the plug just a barely, then turned it back toward tight. He just kept this up. Slowly the plugs would turn a bit easier but would never get free or go far. He just kept at it, after a while they were all out with perfect threads. After that, smooth as glass all the way in and out. He said, if people would takje the plugs out and drop some thread stuff on their threads at least once ever 5 years would not eveer have the prob.

[Yarkle]

yep, the one that was seized on mine was a champion. The local VW guru around here (VW dealership mechanic from the 1950's-80's) says only use Bosch OR NGK.

[jsturtlebuggy]

Autolite and Champion spark plugs do not have the plating on the metal part and threads like you see on Bosch, NGK, Nipponeso, and others that help keep the plugs from sticking in the threads of the cylinder head.
Even with using the plated spark plugs if you leave them in the heads too long they will stick.
Even thougth there are many out there that do not approve of it, I use a small amount of antiseize on the plug threads which help to keep them from seizing.
Also another reason for Champion and Autolite stick in heads is that they have a little longer thread which sticks into chamber. The plugs gets carbon in those threads so when removing them, the carbon buildup tends to destroy the threads in the head.

Aluminum heads have been used on American car engines before there where VW's.
You could buy aftermarket heads for a Ford Flathead engines is just one example.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[GI Joe]

[jsturtlebuggy]

What is said, is that it insulates the spark plug from the head so it does not allow for proper heat tranfer with the cylinder head.
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Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[Captain Spalding]

From the Permatex website:

Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant

A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C). Provides good electrical conductivity. Meets Mil Spec #907E.

Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections

[Wildthings]

[doublecanister]

Hey Irishboy,

did ya have anyluck getting the spark plugs out?

Hopefully you did,

I was just going to mention, any type of penetrating oil, if it's a really stuck part, time is the key.

on all the vehicles i've done brake work on, the longer I let the parts set, kept re-applying the liquid wrench, kano-kroil, pb blaster, wd-40 even, the part eventually broke free with minimal effort.

It just had to stay wet with the spray, and have time to seep all the way in.

If you still have not pulled them loose yet, try it before you give up and break anything.

I had a old 86 Bronco, it took 2 1/2 weeks for the front brake bleeders to bust loose, just kept spraying them with one of the above sprays, and tryed the bleeder, if it didnt budge, sprayed it and tried it again the next day. Eventually it broke loose without any effort .

I've used all 4 all of them & they work, but reapplication and time seem to be the key.

Patience Grasshopper! Patience!

anyways,
Good luck bro.

T.
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2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[mtwrench540]

i agree,i use aero kroil and have found nothing better in my almost 50 years of wrenching!!!