2332 build or bust

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7391

Looking at your photo it looks like your flywheel is not on the crank - if you install it and set your end play it will pull the whole crank assembly towards the flywheel and maybe give you the clearance you need like Steve suggested.

mhisel · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:31 pm Post subject:

The case is already clearanced. The shop (RIMCO) had may rotating assembly when they clearanced it. When I was test fitting for clearance I ensured that the crank was as far forward (front of the car) as possible.
I have enough clearance. This is no longer the issue (I hope).
I already got the case back and it appears that it is good to go.
I will not have time to work on it until later this week or until late next week. Busy going to home depot and picking out wall paper (Old School: your my boy blue)

Turbo Ideas...
I have a range of compression I can run between 7 up to 8.3:1
I have been reading hours and hours about EFI. I have decided to go EFI at later date. I will run between 5 - 8 pounds. I am doing a crank trigger setup.

Turbo ideas...

mhisel · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:16 pm Post subject:

I have dealing with the same machine shop since 2007.
They do quality work and everyone makes a mistake here and there.
I will use them again in the future.

here are some pics of the case with shuffle pin center mains

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Is it normal to have this machining at the top of the case.
What does this cut out do?

another angle of cut out

I am happy to have things moving in the correct direction.
Unfortunately, I will not be able to start assembling until next weekend.

mhisel · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:18 pm Post subject:

If you look closely at the first pic (above) you can see there is a cut-out on the top and bottom of the case.

Are those cut-outs so someone can know the case has been shuffle pinned?

jsturtlebuggy · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:32 pm Post subject:

The mill areas top and bottom make it easier to use a tool to get case halves back apart with the shuffle pins.
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Motion Tire Motorsports
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Into Volkswagens since 1960

catbox · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:56 am Post subject:

Mine has those as well.

A screw driver fits those well to wiggle the case apart.

Smile

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Glenn73 · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:50 pm Post subject:

Those cutouts are a little odd to me.
If you have the correct case splitters you don't need those because you would be applying pressure in those spots anyway.
With or without shuffle pins.
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mhisel · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:02 pm Post subject:

I will start assembly next week.
I live near Kaddie Shack; so if I need any parts I can stop at my local parts store. The guys there at Kaddie Shack have been very helpful.

Stuntmanus · Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:05 am Post subject:

mhisel · Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:04 pm Post subject:

I have been doing a lot reading and searching to find the right size turbo. On this forum it seems that most people are using a t3/t4 hybrid w/ AR .63

I want a street motor, where a great torque curve (more linear than curve) is what I want.

I was at the Garret site and this is what I found

engine specs

Turbos are intended to not only build torque, but move the max torque and HP to a more usable (streetable) range; aka less rpm's.

I am not trying to make max HP but a great street car.

Of course I am saying this meanwhile I am building a 2332 with a turbo,
As if a 2332 would not be enough to have fun.[/img]

mhisel · Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:33 pm Post subject:

I purchased a Garrett t3/t4 with .70 a/r = lots of volume at low speeds

mhisel · Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:25 pm Post subject:

Okay, after moving and gaining a garage in the build and finishing Grad. school. I now have time to start working on the engine.
In a couple of weeks I am going to have some to off to work on it again.(about flippin time).
I was contemplating bronzing or steeling the valve guides. not to sure why or why not to do this. I have not found the pros or cons...

mhisel · Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 12:07 pm Post subject:

So, People bronze the lifter bores because of untrue bores and to prevent premature wear. If you have a steep ramping cam, this is important to not have premature wear.

ALB · Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 12:09 pm Post subject:

mhisel · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:46 am Post subject:

Taking my case to Brothers machining next week in Ontario, CA to bronze the lifter bores. then I can bolt my motor and make it a long block. Many years in the making...
This motor is not what I originally intended. I originally wanted a peppy fun stroker... now I have a very very very peppy stroker.

I still need a header. Any suggestions?

mhisel · Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:25 pm Post subject:

I took my case to get case to get the lifter bores bronzed and the oil galleys cleaned and plugged.
waiting for the phone call to pick it up so that I may start assembly.

I need a header that will allow me to close my deck lid and put in an off-road car. Is there such a thing???

mhisel · Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 10:41 pm Post subject:

Yesterday I used my rifle barrel brushes attached that to one of the cleaning rods and attached the rod to my drill. I used this tool to clean all of the oil galleys that were drilled and tapped.
bronzed lifter bores done by Brothers VW Machine Shop in Ontario, CA
I will complete final cleaning this weekend then start assembly

ALB · Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:30 pm Post subject:

Good to see it moving along..
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mhisel · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:

As I have been piecing together my turbo 2332. I have also been working on an 1835. the 1835 will be in the car until i finish "the beast."
the 1835 has fuel injection heads, with w110, 8.25 compression, original bottom end and original fuel injection flywheel. fuel delivery are a pair of Kads which are currently being reworked by Kaddie Shack.
this is all while I am working on getting the trans back in the car.

mhisel · Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:33 pm Post subject:

I have been reading more and more. I am finding out so much information in regards to turbos. talking with other guys swap meets sharing stories and ideas. I still feel that I am headed in the correct direction.
Since my last post, I came across a nice set of 44 Webers with intake. Also, started to practice my porting skills.
Additionally, I since built a 1641 with a Norris 352S cam. I did a couple of things with the case to aide with oil flow. lightened flywheel and ported and polished the heads. Intake is single 40 Weber (F7 with 150 main and 60 air 28 venturis). Now all I need is to fire it up and pray it runs...


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