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irs conversion
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Brent
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only have one side done right now, but here's how I did it. I used the jigs for alignment and welded in a couple big pieces of 3/16" steel for support. I still want to add a piece on the bottom of the bracket. That's just weld primer, I'll sandblast and paint when done.

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gimpy60
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good pix, good work. do you think it would benefit anything to put a verticle brace along the top and/or bottom of the horn since so much is carved away? just a thought. yours looks good tho.....
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Brent
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gimpy60 wrote:
good pix, good work. do you think it would benefit anything to put a verticle brace along the top and/or bottom of the horn since so much is carved away? just a thought. yours looks good tho.....


The metal for the horns isn't very thick, about 1/16" or so. The plate I put in is 3/16" and the bracket is a little less than that. I it will be pretty solid. I suppose you could add an internal brace though. I'm just going to box the bracket in on the bottom horizontally which should stiffen it up more by supporting the other side of the bracket.
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gimpy60
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and there is a support on the rear of the engine, suppose that will help some too.....we are there then...thanx
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
I only have one side done right now, but here's how I did it. I used the jigs for alignment and welded in a couple big pieces of 3/16" steel for support. I still want to add a piece on the bottom of the bracket. That's just weld primer, I'll sandblast and paint when done.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


using a donor irs sub frame for the brackets make this a much neater job as they don't cut in so much in to the horn compared to the straight design of the aftermarket brackets. In fact the stock brackets only cut in a third the amount compared to these.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somebody posted up a link to some frame horns for doing the conversion that way, but I don't remember when that was, but it was something like June or July of this year in THIS forum. I hadn't heard anything on it since though. To me, that would be the best route, as it doesn't mess up the alignment (you have to get those pivots just right). IRS is set up by the location of the trailing arm, and the pivots are what locate the arms. You have some side play with the CV's, so centering the trans isn't as crucial (still needs to be close though). This alignment issue IS why I added the body mounts for the engine hanger on my 65 Notch, and left the rear subframe alone.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this is the route I'm going http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=892969 For all the reason's Bob gave. If you go on Berrin's website they are a bit cheaper too.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
using a donor irs sub frame for the brackets make this a much neater job as they don't cut in so much in to the horn compared to the straight design of the aftermarket brackets. In fact the stock brackets only cut in a third the amount compared to these.


Right, they have kind of a wide V-shaped angle to them that wouldn't cut in as much. The brackets are also about half as thick as the aftermarket ones. Too late now. Smile
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supaninja wrote:
I think this is the route I'm going http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=892969 For all the reason's Bob gave. If you go on Berrin's website they are a bit cheaper too.


That would be the way I'd go, if I were doing a conversion today. Berrien has been around since at least the mid 70's, and their quality has always been very good. I'm wondering if this guy is selling it for them, or if he bought 1, and decided to not use it. Might be worth looking on their web site (Berrien Buggies) to see if they're cheaper. Wink I only say that, because they are a Michigan company (on Michigan's west coast), and that seller is in Ohio.

Nick, you could get Eric to modify them where they attach to the subframe, and lower or raise the trans in the car too. That way, you would have options with 091. Wink
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Brent
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
supaninja wrote:
I think this is the route I'm going http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=892969 For all the reason's Bob gave. If you go on Berrin's website they are a bit cheaper too.


That would be the way I'd go, if I were doing a conversion today. Berrien has been around since at least the mid 70's, and their quality has always been very good. I'm wondering if this guy is selling it for them, or if he bought 1, and decided to not use it. Might be worth looking on their web site (Berrien Buggies) to see if they're cheaper. Wink I only say that, because they are a Michigan company (on Michigan's west coast), and that seller is in Ohio.

Nick, you could get Eric to modify them where they attach to the subframe, and lower or raise the trans in the car too. That way, you would have options with 091. Wink


It would definitely be cheaper to go this route and weld on the horns. With how I'm going: IRS brackets are about $30, alignment jigs $100 (luckily I borrowed some), steel patch material $10, much more welding, and a lot of time.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:12 pm    Post subject: Info for Swing Axle IRS Conversion Reply with quote

I'm going to be putting a T4 into my 69 Fasty sometime down the road so I've done quite a bit of research on the topic. Not much out there that's T3 specific but as far as I can see, everything is the same as long as you tweek the jig a little - or just make your own. I think I'll be taking this path.

There is a lot of info at shoptalk forums and some overview info at the tunacan. Here are some instructionals that I particularly liked:

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/IRSconversion/IRSconversion.htm

http://www.bajaclub.co.uk/PDF_Documents/IRS.PDF

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/graphics/instructions/irs-pivot-jig-instructions.pdf
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vegasquare
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
I only have one side done right now, but here's how I did it. I used the jigs for alignment and welded in a couple big pieces of 3/16" steel for support. I still want to add a piece on the bottom of the bracket. That's just weld primer, I'll sandblast and paint when done.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Well done sir. I have done this to a few cars over the years and always wondered why people hack up early bodies to put in irs when this is such a slick and completly reversible method. This is how its supposed to be done.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vegasquare wrote:
Well done sir. I have done this to a few cars over the years and always wondered why people hack up early bodies to put in irs when this is such a slick and completly reversible method. This is how its supposed to be done.


Thanks. I've been spending a lot of time on it. Getting close to being done. Here's a pic of the other side where I boxed in the bottom. Hope to be done tomorrow and sandblast this thing.

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vlad01
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dam! thats pretty good Smile
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gimpy60
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one more question, are the trailing arms the same as t-1? My local is out of the brackets, but I have several bugs I can hack them off of. I do have a late square to set up the jigs with too. That chicken link was just what I was looking for, thanx for it. You guys have gave lots of help on this , well going to get on it today....later
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
vegasquare wrote:
Well done sir. I have done this to a few cars over the years and always wondered why people hack up early bodies to put in irs when this is such a slick and completly reversible method. This is how its supposed to be done.


Thanks. I've been spending a lot of time on it. Getting close to being done. Here's a pic of the other side where I boxed in the bottom. Hope to be done tomorrow and sandblast this thing.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hopefully all that heat you put on that doesn't cause it to warp. Shocked That's a lot of weld in a small localised area. I realise it triangulated, but still a lot of heat. That thin metal likes to move around pretty easy. Wink
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Hopefully all that heat you put on that doesn't cause it to warp. Shocked That's a lot of weld in a small localised area. I realise it triangulated, but still a lot of heat. That thin metal likes to move around pretty easy. Wink


I did take a lot of breaks in-between welds to let it cool. Yeah, it's on there pretty heavy. But I did pay careful attention to keep it aligned. I must of taken the jigs on and off 50 times to keep checking everything. They still fit just right after all that welding.

So here's a few pictures of the jigs. Notice the notch that has to be cut out of the jig to fit. They were bug jigs to start, gusseted to fit, then heated tubing red hot to fit to a T3 IRS subframe and relieve stress. Big thanks to Clatter for having these made and letting me borrow them.

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gimpy60
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess if you used a bug jig to line up with, the bug stuff must interchange. I got my doner sub out, gotta drag out the blaster damnit, I love it. Got a '71 bug pan that needs cut up, so I will soon see what will work I guess..........
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the jigs...

Those are the $100 jobs from Pacific Customs.
They need notched really heavy to make them fit the T3 sub.
Hence the gussets to keep them rigid.
The last step was to bolt them to an IRS T3 sub, and heat them cherry red mid-span.
This with them bolted tighter and tighter to get them perfect.
They will go on/off a stock IRS sub with NO effort.
You can see the spot where they were stress-relieved.

I might consider renting them out, but would need a hefty deposit to do so.
They were quite the project to build for sure...
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I got my sub bastardised. Now I need some torsion bars, wondering how much weaker the ones I robbed from the beetle torsion to get my brackets, control arms, etc. will be for the t-3. I can see the difference in the short stock ones & the bug, diameter wise. Could I use these with some kyb shox? I have a 70 doner in the back, just too friggin lazy to pull it up & remove the bars... Wink Oh yeah, Clatter, I built the jigs in about an hour, worse part was gettin the damn centers outta the bushings.
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