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Project Slowly Underway: Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean up some of the rust and shoot it with some black exhaust manifold rattle can, and it might not look all bad. Cool

Thanks Brian!
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem. Now get this thing running already Smile
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or, how about something like this? I could make some 80deg elbows with flanges on each side and have the collector on top of the engine angled up slightly. Could attach a stinger to the end of the collectors three bolt flange.

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Ok, so I got a rough distance the manifolds protrude beyond the bell housing mount on the engine. Aproximately six and a half inches. I wish I had the transmission up here so that I could see if I am in any danger if having interference issues with the half-shafts. If anybody wants to give me a rough distance from the bell housing to the drive flanges, that would be awesome. Doesn't have to be super accurate, just something to give me an idea of how much space I have to work with.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...but it may be a bit much to snake the system over top of the cross brace between the frame horn braces. Could be done though.

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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cut holes in your frame, use it as the exhaust manifold itself? What could go wrong with that?

Or just go straight pipe
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian, I saw the rebuild thread for that rig online a couple years ago. Some guy restored his grandfathers buggy. Pretty cool rig really. As for the straight pipes, mmm, no. Laughing I'm thinking a stinger pointing straight out the back with a fiberglass baffle installed and a 3x5 spark restorer on the end.

So, since I don't have my transmission on me at the moment, I asked a buddy to get a rough measure of the distance from the face of the bell housing to the cv joint flange. Worked out to be approximately 6 1/4 inches. Now, that is also about how far the manifolds hang out past the bell housing mount on the engine, which doesn't leave me with a whole lot of room to work with. I can shorten the manifolds by about 2 inches which will help a lot. Exhaust tubing donuts are available in 1 5/8 inch tubing with a radius of 1 5/8 of an inch measured from the center of the tubing. One donut and a section of straight tubing a few feet long is enough to cut four bends out of and create the piece I need between the manifold and the header. This would be cutting it close if the manifolds were up against the cv joints, so this should be able to clear the axles since the manifolds are outboard of the cv joints.

Looks like the only thing to worry about is making the adapter pieces tall enough to clear the cross brace between the frame horn braces. Shouldn't be to hard.

What do you guys think?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boys....

It appears there is some mis-understanding here...

The header collector is supposed to be behind the engine...toward the rear bumper. NOT wrapped around the bellhousing! The header MAY have been designed to fit an engine with the aftermarket Porsche upright fan housing. If this is the case (as with my T4), you can add about 5" of tube just behind the flanges.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just because it is "supposed to be" doesn't mean it has to be.

Exiting out the back, as it was designed, it would be outside of my rear cage. I would rather not have a header for my bumper.

And what is this about not having the exhaust around the bell housing? Hey, it works for European Motorworks. Wink

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Last edited by Vanapplebomb on Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
Just because it is "supposed to be" doesn't mean it has to be.


Come on Dusty, of all people I know you should know how to break the rules to make stuff work Very Happy
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
Vanapplebomb wrote:
Just because it is "supposed to be" doesn't mean it has to be.


Come on Dusty, of all people I know you should know how to break the rules to make stuff work Very Happy


Yeah!

Hahaha, Sorry Richard, just giving you a hard time Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy

Off road cars are meant to break the conventional rules.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been having trouble uploading pictures to the gallery for the past couple days. I have more to share, just can't seem to get it to work. It keeps crashing every time I try to upload. Once I get it working I will give you guys shot or two of some pretty substantial previous owner syndrome.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I was considering the potential to build a header like the European Motorworks one.

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But I consider it more work for less result.

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You have to clear not only the bellhousing, carbs, fan and cylinder shrouding, but axles and frame yoke supports and crossmembers too. The existing header you have is fine, but those stock manifolds it connects to are awfully long. And do you plan to race this car in the sand dune derby? Or is there so much traffic out there on the forest trails to deal with that you're really concerned about someone rear-ending your buggy and smashing your headers?

Brian wrote:

Come on Dusty, of all people I know you should know how to break the rules to make stuff work Very Happy


I've spent a lifetime catching those who try to break the rules to make things work in ways other than the "approved" method.
Cool
But at the same time...I'm very much a "Path Less Traveled" person. You'll only hear me say "Baaa...Baaahhh" if I'm trying to communicate with people I perceive are inclined to follow the leader.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is going to be a woods buggy. If the exhaust came out the back it would be limiting aproach and departure angles as well as be the first thing to get bashed up in the back. Getting bashed up would most likely take out the cylinder heads. Not cool.

As I mentioned, this set up will clear the bell housing, carbs, and air filter. I just have to make a few tweaks to make sure it clears the axles and cross brace. Those are the only two things I really have to worry about. It can be worked around.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As it is to be a woods buggy, I suggest you use a muffler rather than a stinger. A Thrush Turbo would work great and be very low cost compared to other options. It would need some support from the top of the case, but that's EZ.

On the subject of rear clearance angle, I suggest that you angle your lower bumper cage tubes up at the back edge of the engine, then up again to meet the rear crossbar. Most bumper cages on play cars are designed with a right angle bend at the back edge of the bumper cage. This drags badly.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kinda like this concept in the rear?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just about busted out laughing in class.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

City Boys!!!! Rolling Eyes

Laughing
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Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I refer to those as mobile homeless bathrooms.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:
As it is to be a woods buggy, I suggest you use a muffler rather than a stinger. A Thrush Turbo would work great and be very low cost compared to other options. It would need some support from the top of the case, but that's EZ.


Funny you should say that, because I happen to have a Turbo muffler by CherryBomb sitting in the basement. Basically the same as the Thrush turbo.
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