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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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Updated my software. That solved my not being able to upload pictures issue.
Update! Continued tearing down the Type 4 engine. Got the five flywheel bolts, lock plate, shims, and flywheel end main bearing removed.
I found some major previous owner syndrome when I pulled the blower flange. I should have been tipped off by the two sheared off bolts and dowel pin that locate the big cast aluminum blower. When I pulled the blower flange I found that the woodruff key had sheared off and the flange spun on the shaft. OUCH! Shame since the rest of the crankshaft is in near perfect condition. It looks like it can be cleaned up at my local engine machine shop. They will have to remove a slight amount of material from the snout of the crankshaft and the inside of the blower flange. This will allow the flange to seat further back, but that really isn't an issue. If need be a mm or so can be trimmed off the back of the flange to keep it from bottoming on crank without causing any interference with the oil seal. The key way may need to be welded up and cut so the key fits nice and crisp again. We will see.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Popped out the distributor drive gear. Unlike the T1, the T4 uses just one shim under the drive gear. Keep the spring handy
Also removed the oil pressure relief valve under the oil filter mounting boss. The retainer is easy to unscrew by chiseling the edge of the slot in a counter clockwise direction until it loosens up. Once it is loosened you can just unscrew it with a large screw driver. The crush washer can get chucked. New ones are included in the gasket kits. The spring slides out, then the piston must be removed. This can be sticky sometimes. Mine came out with no fuss, but sometimes you need to get creative. Hold onto the spring and piston if they were in good shape. They are getting hard to find.
I will also be saving the old pushrod tubes. O-rings can be removed with a pick or a small screwdriver. As you can tell from the pictures below, these were a little bit beat up. No harm. That is easy to remedy. T4 pushrod tubes are sturdy units, but they can be pinched to hard with a pliers when removing or installing them. New ones are available, but for minor damage they can easily be reformed by driving a series of sockets though them. I started with an 11mm socket and worked my way one by one up to a 14mm socket. Your socket size may vary as wall thicknesses are different from one socket manufacturer to another socket manufacturer. This formed them back into shape.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 7:56 am Post subject: |
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That fan hub probably sheared the woodruff key due to the main bolt being loose. Happened to a dirt bike I bought for $50 once. In that case, there was no other damage than the sheared key. I had a VW generator pulley key handy, which was exactly the right size. Replaced the key, put the flywheel back on and torqued the bolt, and it ran great...for $50 and no cost to repair!
You ARE the 1st I've encountered calling it a "blower" instead of "fan" though! My old '67 street Bug had a problem with the fan rubbing the shroud under hard acceleration. Had some local hotrodder guys thinking it had a blower because of the whine when I took off. I never corrected them. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Hahaha, yeah, it's a habit. I have usually call axial flow stuff fans and radial flow blowers.
I would agree with the center bolt not being tight enough. It was a little to easy to remove, if you know what I mean. Not enough torque probably was the demise of the snout and flange. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Just brought a pile of stuff to North Central Engine with a to do list.
-Polish crank journals and clean up the snout.
-Hone cylinders with a proper honing machine and check skirt clearance
-Resurface flywheel
-Balance the cast aluminum blower (one blade missing)
-Replace valve guides
-Regrind intake valves
-New single piece SI exhaust valves
-Cut valve seats
-Media blast the rust off from inside of the cast iron intake manifolds.
I also asked them to check the wrist pin bushing to piston pin clearance and see if they can locate any KS rod and main bearings, or bearings of similar quality. I have seen the work that North Central Engine does. Good honest work. They are pretty busy but they should be able to get around to everything in a couple weeks or so. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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It's good to have a trustworthy machine shop nearby. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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damn, I wonder what would have caused the key to shear? Looks like it was ran for many miles after being filed down though. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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dustymojave wrote: |
It's good to have a trustworthy machine shop nearby. |
You are absolutely right! It is especially nice that it is an engine specific shop that knows exactly what to do when you bring in a part.
Brian wrote: |
damn, I wonder what would have caused the key to shear? Looks like it was ran for many miles after being filed down though. |
Brian, I think the previous owner didn't have the bolt torqued down hard enough. The key is not really there to transmit any sort of power, just to align things so the timing marks on the blower are correct. The friction between the tapered surfaces is where all the power is transmitted. With the bolt looser than it should be, there won't be as much friction between the two surfaces so the key will transmit some of the load. The blower and alternator take quite a bit of power, so that key was likely asked to do way more than it was designed for.
Just my guess. I'm really not sure to be honest. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:25 pm Post subject: |
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I think upon a high ΔV rate constantly over many years of an untorqued nut will do it. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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You would think, but the interesting thing about that is the rest of the engine appears to be rather low mileage. The pistons are in great shape and the crank is hardly worn. It would be odd that an engine with so little wear would have worked the bolt loose on its own, ya know?
Maybe the fan jammed or impacted an incoming object hard at some point in the engines previous life. That would explain the two sheared off M8 bolts and dowel pin in the blower mounting flange... _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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That's what I was thinking, maybe something jammed into the
"blower" and caused some sort of ruckus. I dunno, but good thing you're going through it. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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So it is a good reminder to put a screen over the fan intake to keep caca out of there. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Good call. I'm either going to use the factory bus intake screen, or I may use the intake from a 412. The 412 is like a funnel with a bend in it that takes air from the top. Putting a mesh screen over the top would keep junk out. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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But a Type 4 would be a screened open top to funnel any smaller stuff like pea gravel and dirt into the fan. I'm not so sure it would be a good thing. Bus may be better. One of the advantages of the aftermarket Porsche alternator/fan fiberglass shrouds is that the intake is up very high. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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The 411/412 intake would be perfect with that stamped metal mesh on the top. It puts the intake up high and would keep all the crud out. Granted, it is just more parts and the rear position of the intake is not nearly as bad as most people make it out to be. A bus screen to keep the chunks out works pretty well. Sure it may suck up a little more dust, but heck, blow the fins out at the end of each season just like you should do with any off road vw. mounting the 411/412 intake would be pretty easy though. Three bolts to the fan housing, and a couple brackets to hold the top to the inside of the rear cage. It really would be a pretty clean installation without to much work.
Use this material similar to what is on the 914, or a lot of speaker grills...
Corrugate it to increase the surface area, and used that in place of the coarse plastic mesh on this...
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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I happen to like the factory cooling system on those motors. Come to think of it... I happen to like pretty much everything about them. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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Also, sometime next week I will send my cam/lifters out to European Motorworks in California for a regrind. Lots of mixed opinions out there on regrinding factory cams, but EMU has a great track record with their regrinds. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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Too bad you can't get a mud screen going on. Like in page 15 on Hibbard's book, so when one side gets clogged the other side will still be open. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5418 Location: Holland, MI
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