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Project Slowly Underway: Berrien 295
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that the intake screen is a good thing. I just think in terms of the 1`st time your rear wheel spins throwing a shower of mud up and back and everywhere...what goes up must come down...

With the bus inlet, the intake is horizontal and while not as high, so more likely to ingest water in a stream crossing or deep puddle, it also isn't going to funnel junk in that gets past the screen. So some trade-off there.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Richard, you raise a good point. I'll probably stick with the bus inlet because the 411/412 inlet wouldn't do anything for water anyways since it isn't sealed. Gap between the funel and blower housing. Interesting stuff to think about in my spare time. Cool
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stopped at the Fall bug run and swap meet. I found a PDSIT 2 Solex carb good for parts, a Berrien e-brake bracket and tubes, and a bunch of missing engine tin. Puctures to come.

*edit*

Oh, and a nice master cylinder pushrod.

Cool
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are pictures of some of the stuff I picked up at the Michigan Fall Bug Run show and swap meet.

Spare Solex PDSIT 2 for parts.
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Mater cylinder pushrod
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E-brake bracket with guide tubes and e-brake lever. This one put up a bit of a fight since the lever axle pin didn't fit in properly. After bending the bracket with a pliers I was able to get the pin through the lever and holes in the mounting bracket. Now that I got it to fit it can come back apart, stripped, and painted. The powder coating is flacking off.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that one of them Berrien only handbrake pieces?
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why yes, yes it is. Well, I wouldn't say it is Berrien ONLY, but it is made by Berrien.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read somewhere its a berrien only thing, don't remember where but I'm gonna go ahead and say:

Niceeee.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, they designed it to fit their buggy chassis so it isn't a drop in job for anything else. That being said, with a little work it can be made to fit just about anything you like.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scored the rest of the tin that I was missing at the fall bug run.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested my electric choke elements along with my central idle circuit and pilot cut off solenoids. The electric choke heating coils got nice and hot and the bimetallic coil springs coiled up nicely. The central idle circuit solenoid worked nice and strong as did one of the pilot cut off solenoids. The other pilot cut off solenoid was toast. It conducted electricity fine but the plunger was stuck. I'll see if I can turn up a working working pilot cut off solenoid from some Solex carb sitting around. If not I will just pick up a new one.

I also started cleaning up some of the engine tin. What a mess.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I began stripping down the alternator I have on hand to recondition it. The front bearing was toast and the rear one is on its way out. The brushes are also worn a fair amount, and the slip rings could stand to be turned down a hair to true them up again. We will see about the diodes in the bridge rectifier. Odds are they are still alright.

For whatever reason this 55amp alternator had a fan someone installed on the pulley. At first I thought it was from a 70 amp alternator, but after taking off the pulley I no longer believe that to be the case either since this was a two piece unit. I think the 70 amp fan and pulley is one piece. The shape of the fan blades is also off. Maybe it came from whatever Honda donated some of the steel brackets jury-rigged to it when I got it.

At this point I have already separated the front and back sections of the housing. Sorry, no pictures of that.

The nut holding the pulley on was stuck on there ridiculously hard. It eventually ended in me having to break out the nut splitter to break the nut off.

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As you can see here the pulley is separate from the fan. Stock pulley, mystery fan. Whatever. Guess I will just chuck the fan since I have no idea what it is from.

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The shaft isn't so tight in the bearing so a little pushing popped it out.

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The bearing is pressed into the aluminum housing, but also retained with a plate and a pair of screws. Pull the screws and plate and the bearing can be driven out with a socket and hammer. It is a pretty loose press fit so the bearing comes out relatively easy as far as pressed in bearings go.

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A little work with a wire brush easily cleans up the housing. Here you can see the front portion half cleaned. The rest of the housing will get brushed up before reassembling with fresh bearings, brushes, etc.

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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do 55s not have fans and 70s do? Just a little elbow grease and it looks brand new.

I did a couple 1600 50amp alternators and painted one bright red. Don't paint yours bright red.
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fishybastard
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are you getting the new bearings from? Mine is starting to make noise.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
Do 55s not have fans and 70s do? Just a little elbow grease and it looks brand new.

I did a couple 1600 50amp alternators and painted one bright red. Don't paint yours bright red.

Yes, that is correct. The 55 amp ones are cooled from the blower only. The 70 amp alternators needed a little more cooling air so the duct from the blower to the alternator was enlarged from a D shape to an O, and a finned pulley became standard. And thank you for the advice. I will remember to not paint my alternator red. Hahaha. Once I get the aluminum cleaned up I will just leave it raw like the factory did.

fishybastard wrote:
Where are you getting the new bearings from? Mine is starting to make noise.

Brushes I will be getting from Autozone. They also have the bearings I need, but I think they are rather over priced. I know the size of bearings that I need, so I will probably just find an industrial supplier and order them there like I do with my oil seals. I'm not sure where an industrial supply place is located up here though, so I may order them and pick them up in Holland when I go back downstate for the holidays. There is an awesome place on PawPaw Drive on the north side of the road just east of the intersection with 112th.
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fishybastard
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I will see what I find when I take mine apart
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a '75 bus in a junk yard today. I asked the guys who own the scrap yard if they would mind me stripping some parts off of it. I'll go back tomorrow and see if I can grab the distributor, distributor clamp, rocker cover bail wires, breather bail wire, timing scale, and intake screen for the blower, thermostat (still good!), and the thermostat bracket and cable. Guess I will have to wait and see what happens. If they are asking for a reasonable price I will take the lot, but who knows that they will charge. They may not even let me rip them off. I don't want to pay some guy to dink around trying to figure out how to pull parts off of a bus when I could be in and out of there in ten minutes myself.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dipstick tube in the shroud was bent and I couldn't get the cast halves to line up and fit together. Since the block is out of a Porsche 914 with the dipstick on the top I just cut the dipstick tube off the Bus blower shroud. Problem solved.

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Well, since it wasn't doing me any good I took five seconds to hack the outside portion off too. I'll just fill the holes left in the shroud with JB Weld.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While a lot of my stuff is at the engine machinist I figured I may as well photograph some of the other parts I have laying around for the build.

These are the original factory rocker sets that I have. The stock ratio is 1.3:1 which is a little higher than the bug rockers. These also have slightly larger 10mm in diameter adjusting screws. These are about as simple as it gets folks. Just a pair of end pieces, a shaft, a spring, and two rockers each with an adjusting screw and lock nut.

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This is the factory T4 oil pump. I love that they have a pair of tangs on the sides that allow you to pry the pump out of the case. The T4 pumps are also serviceable. A new o-ring is included in the gasket sets.

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My T4 block is from a Porsche 914 which does not have the boss on the front of the case machined for an oil filler tube, so I needed the breather which has a filler built in so it can be filled from the top.

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Here all the all important cooling air control flaps. Unlike a Type 1, the Type 4 flaps also control the airflow to the oil cooler. Without the flaps in place the oil cooler will be starved for air and oil temps will build. Also, the Type 4 has a lot more surface area for cooling than a type 1, so the thermostat and flaps really need to be in place, otherwise the cylinders and heads would never fully warm up in a light weight buggy. These will need to get stripped and repainted to keep the rust at bay.

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210mm Luk pressure plate. The larger pressure plates offer more clamping force without the extra pedal effort.

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This little guy is pretty interesting. It is on the factory dual carb linkage. These are really nice linkages because the adjustor for synchronizing the carbs is build right in on the drivers side of the linkage. This one is in pretty rough shape, but it can easily be saved with a little elbow grease. The linkage needs new bushings on either end, and new hardware for the synchronization adjustor to allow it to work smoothly.

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The pushrod tubes have been gone though and had the dents and wrinkles in them worked out as best as possible. I just drove a series of sockets though them, each time increasing the size by 1mm. The Type 4 pushrod tubes are pretty sturdy units so this is a valid way to salvage slightly dented up tubes. Type 1 pushrod tubes are not as sturdy and would likely split down the side if you were to start driving socket though them, so don't try it. Type 1 replacement tubes are cheap, just get new ones if they are damaged. Also in this picture are the factory steel tipped aluminum pushrods.

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I also got my hands on this old set of German rings for the factory 93mm pistons.

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winchin73blazinbaja
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you and your T-4 engine. =P haha

cannot wait to see it on the road! i may have bent valves right now. after having a new timing belt blow up cruising down the road in 4th gear. pretty sure something worked its way into the pulley side of the belt and applied outward pressure on it. pow. bam. and no more go. XD so I am back in the non functional group..... going to tear it down over the course of this week hopefully there are no bent valves as they are $42 a piece. XD haha your T-4 is looking sweeter and sweeter.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hahaha, yeah, I'm weird like that. Laughing

I guess it is just a preference thing. Some people like the bug engines, some like the T4. Guess that is just me. Personally I think they are simpler to build and service. A lot of that has to do with how they are put together. You can tell the engineers learned a few things from the bug engines by they way they designed these motors. Lots of simple changes like having the pushrod tubes pass though the heads so that you don't have to unbolt your heads to change a leaky pushrod tube seal like you do on the bugs...what a pain for a little seal. Just stuff like that all over. It makes more sense to me. Others will beg to differ. To each their own.

Man, 42 bucks a valve for your engine? Ouch! That repair is probably going to bite you pretty hard! Lets hope for the best.
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