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cmiller95
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

front are like 35 a piece on summit
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oolcu812
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No help for mine?
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oolcu812 wrote:
No help for mine?


I think you need to measure your set up and try to find ones to fit. Seems like a custom setup and the top mount looks more like a front mount type with a stud instead of a bolt. Maybe you can rebuild the shocks you have? I cant really tell where that upper mount is but it looks like a one of a kind set up.
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oolcu812
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtkeeper wrote:
oolcu812 wrote:
No help for mine?


I think you need to measure your set up and try to find ones to fit. Seems like a custom setup and the top mount looks more like a front mount type with a stud instead of a bolt. Maybe you can rebuild the shocks you have? I cant really tell where that upper mount is but it looks like a one of a kind set up.


Yeah sorry for the poor picture quality. When I get my new tires everything will be checked out. I really hope I can just swap them out for another set of shocks though. Or hell, even rebuild them if its cheap enough.

How much would you say a shock rebuild costs?
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oolcu812 wrote:
dirtkeeper wrote:
oolcu812 wrote:
No help for mine?


I think you need to measure your set up and try to find ones to fit. Seems like a custom setup and the top mount looks more like a front mount type with a stud instead of a bolt. Maybe you can rebuild the shocks you have? I cant really tell where that upper mount is but it looks like a one of a kind set up.


Yeah sorry for the poor picture quality. When I get my new tires everything will be checked out. I really hope I can just swap them out for another set of shocks though. Or hell, even rebuild them if its cheap enough.

How much would you say a shock rebuild costs?



I have no idea but IF they are rebuild-able i think it would be less than buying new of the same quality. If you can measure the travel an size you need you will probably be able to find some kyb's ( least expensive) or bilsteins or foxes to fit.

http://www.kyb.com/technical/documents/ShockDimensionsSecured.pdf
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oolcu812
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtkeeper wrote:
oolcu812 wrote:
dirtkeeper wrote:
oolcu812 wrote:
No help for mine?


I think you need to measure your set up and try to find ones to fit. Seems like a custom setup and the top mount looks more like a front mount type with a stud instead of a bolt. Maybe you can rebuild the shocks you have? I cant really tell where that upper mount is but it looks like a one of a kind set up.


Yeah sorry for the poor picture quality. When I get my new tires everything will be checked out. I really hope I can just swap them out for another set of shocks though. Or hell, even rebuild them if its cheap enough.

How much would you say a shock rebuild costs?



I have no idea but IF they are rebuild-able i think it would be less than buying new of the same quality. If you can measure the travel an size you need you will probably be able to find some kyb's ( least expensive) or bilsteins or foxes to fit.

http://www.kyb.com/technical/documents/ShockDimensionsSecured.pdf


I like that link very much. Thanks!
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a stock link pin beam that I am going to cut the bump stop and lengthen the shock towers so I can use bus length shocks. My concern is that a high pressure gas charged shocks like what KYB offers would be to stiff for stock length arms on a light rail buggy.

Would I be better off going with a shock that has a low pressure charge like the Napa Auto Response/ Monroe Matic shocks, or even just a plain oil shock?
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B squared
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

after searching for hours i'm completely confused as to what shocks I should be looking for. I have a link pin front end that will be cut and turned so am I going to need a longer than stock shock? One person says you do need longer the next says no you can use stock length. If you can use either are there any advantages to one or the other? I want to keep the stock mounting locations. I'm going with KYB for now and the baja will see mostly off road but nothing extreme.
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PacificBaja
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

B squared wrote:
after searching for hours i'm completely confused as to what shocks I should be looking for. I'm going with KYB for now and the baja will see mostly off road but nothing extreme.


Oregon = Dunes, Logging roads, Desert. Need something that can handle them all and comfortable getting to them.
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B squared
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm well aware of the terrain in Oregon. Just want to know if I have to use longer shocks on a cut and turned beam or can I use stock length.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

B squared wrote:
after searching for hours i'm completely confused as to what shocks I should be looking for. I have a link pin front end that will be cut and turned so am I going to need a longer than stock shock? One person says you do need longer the next says no you can use stock length. If you can use either are there any advantages to one or the other? I want to keep the stock mounting locations. I'm going with KYB for now and the baja will see mostly off road but nothing extreme.

On a ball joint front end the ball joints will meet their limit, stop the suspension, before a stock shock reaches its limit. So even on a cut and turned ball joint front end a stock length shock will usually work.
In the case of a link pin front end I am not sure but i dont think there is anything that limits the travel except for the shock. Therefore i think you need to either install stops for the suspension or get shocks that are long enough to handle the maximum travel you think your front end will experience which can be measured.
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B squared
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah measuring suspension travel has me a little confused too. I've read about 20 different ways to measure it and wonder which one is the correct and most accurate way to do it. Not interested in a "easy" way that will just get you "close".
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

B squared wrote:
Yeah measuring suspension travel has me a little confused too. I've read about 20 different ways to measure it and wonder which one is the correct and most accurate way to do it. Not interested in a "easy" way that will just get you "close".




20 different ways?? I think there is just one way.... compress and expand the suspension through its maximum travel... It is easiest to do this with shocks and torsion bars or torsion springs removed so that you dont need equipment or rigs to move the suspension through its travel range.


On my ball joint front end with the torsion springs removed and the spindles attached to the arms and the arms in the beam I pushed the spindle assembly all the way upward till the ball joints stopped.... max upward travel, and i welded in stops to limit the travel to this point.... then i pushed the spindle all the way down and found the max movement of the ball joints in that direction... weld in stop.... then i selected a shock ...bilstein 6100... that had at minimum the available travel i needed. My travel was about 12 1/4" to 17 1/2" I think the shock length is about 11 3/4 to 18 1/4" a little bit more than my limits

I am not sure what part of the assembly limits travel on a link pin.

Rear end same way
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B squared
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm starting with the rear first. I have torsion bars and shocks removed. I measured 14 3/4 and 10 3/4 from upper to lower shock mount as I moved the spring plate from stop to stop. Does this sound about right? only 4 inches of shock travel??
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

B squared wrote:
I'm starting with the rear first. I have torsion bars and shocks removed. I measured 14 3/4 and 10 3/4 from upper to lower shock mount as I moved the spring plate from stop to stop. Does this sound about right? only 4 inches of shock travel??


I'm not sure what specs are but that sounds about right
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anybody considered the el-cheapo Gabriel Guardian shocks? Several people on woodsbuggy.com recommended them. They cost around 20-30 bucks each, and apparently they really like them on the fronts of their buggies.

Just wondering if anybody else had any experience or knowledge of them.
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Animal78
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I am glad I am reading it but then again maybe not so glad. Now as many others have stated somewhat confused.

Would like a clear answer.

Front shocks cut and turned beam balljoints. Max extension length is 17.5 inches and compressed length is 13 inches. So that leaves me with 4.5 inches of travel. Seeing as how this car is not used for racing or any serious off road fooling around I think having the shock limit my downward travel will be fine then once I get the new tires mounted I will install stops for the upswing accordingly.

Then for the rear it's nothing special just re indexed the torsion bars I plan on making some small cuts in the plates something around 1/2 inch. So that leaves me with needing something with a slight bit more travel than factory shocks if any.

Currently there is just those awful empi coilover shocks on there and the rear ones are blown so I really need to do something about that. That's what brought me here. Sometime down the road when I can afford it I will go with a nice long travel setup but it's just not in the budget right now. So I don't want to spend a fortune making this all work.

If anyone has some resources for shocks or knows something that will work I am all ears. Part numbers would be excellent. Smile
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Animal78
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind. I answered my own question. Went to Gabriel's website and they had all the dimensions listed. So it looks like 82001 for the rear will work and 82005 fits the front. They are the stock shocks they list but they are just barely long enough.

Here are the specs for the front shocks.


Shock Extended Length:
17.2 in.
436.88 mm.

Shock Collapsed Length:
12.44 in.
315.98 mm.

Length of Stroke:
4.76 in
120.9 mm.


Here is the specs on the rear.

Shock Extended Length:
15.98 in.
405.89 mm.

Shock Collapsed Length:
10.37 in.
263.4 mm.

Length of Stroke:
5.61 in
142.49 mm.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Animal78 wrote:
Never mind. I answered my own question. Went to Gabriel's website and they had all the dimensions listed. So it looks like 82001 for the rear will work and 82005 fits the front. They are the stock shocks they list but they are just barely long enough.


If the rears are short after you notch the spring plates you can raise the lower shock mount by drilling a new hole about an inch up.
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chiroracer
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the downward travel use the limit of the ball joint but on the uptravel you need to use the compressed length of your shock as the limit otherwise you will break the shocktowers eventually. El Burro
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