New motor build 1904cc

W1K1 · Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:46 pm Post subject:

John at aircooled.net helped recommend the jetting for them in the engine forum.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=499367

And you can request whatever jetting you want when you order from alfa1750. I also ordered the hex idle adjustment screws with them at no extra charge.

John has helped a lot on this build, that's why he's gotten the lions share of my parts orders for this engine.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

mxracer · Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:11 pm Post subject:

W1K1 · Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:03 am Post subject:

Because it needs that nut size for the torque meister. It has a 9:1 ratio so 45 ft/lb with my torque wrench is 405 ft/lb on the gland nut. Much easier to do on the bench.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

mxracer · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:00 am Post subject:

Ahh... wasn't thinking of the torque multiplier, I have large tools for my machinery so I just use a big torque wrench. I r learn-ed now. Smile

W1K1 · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:53 am Post subject:

Finally received my parts to finish up the push rods, and carbs.
Customs like to sit on things sometimes for a few days.

Not a whole lot of space for spark plug changes.
looks like the answer is remove the carbs and manifolds for easy access.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

nope ..... not getting a spark plug socket in there
on the up side, i bought the 3/8"hex steel nuts for the manifolds so the socket is small. I just need a long 1/4" drive wobble extension to remove the nuts from above.
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casting flash is pretty restrictive on the remote oil filter housing on both the in and outlet.

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I got the dremel out with a round ball burr and cleaned it up on both sides.

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Had to do a little tin bashing for some clearance for the dells on the drivers side but nothing too bad.

Next up....... powder coating tins Very Happy

I don't understand why CB doesn't have the offset filter housing mounts for the T3 kit ???like the ones that come in the T1 kit, instead of the crooked bar ???
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

Brent · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:29 am Post subject:

Are you going to put in oil pressure/temp senders somewhere?
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69 Fastback Build (Doris)

W1K1 · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:38 am Post subject:

I'll run the temp sender in the pressure relief spring spot, since I have that sensor already. I also have the sump drilled and tapped if i want to run one in the sump, that's the way I have both our other engines set up.

I will run the stock idiot light sensor in the cooler and run a separate pressure sensor on the outlet of the remote oil filter.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

Brent · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:21 am Post subject:

supersuk · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:14 pm Post subject:

What i've noticed about the CB manifold and filter setup is that it will be hard to remove top cover to access the air filter. The wing nuts are really close to the trunk sheet metal and you can't pull the covers off because the trunk sheetmetal is in the way. In order to clean my air filters or sync the throttle bodies, I have to remove the engine to allow one of those sync gauges to be used.

Oh, and I tried to remove the manifold and throttle body together for spark plug changes, but I can't lift the assembly up high enough to clear the studs because of the trunk sheetmetal! Really bad design....
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323

Type 3 MegaSquirt Trigger Wheel: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5502150#5502150

W1K1 · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject:

Instead of the threaded studs to hold the tops on have you thought about a couple long capscrews ? That way the studs aren't in the way for getting the lid off.
We'll see how much space we have when it gets put in the car.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

supersuk · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:56 pm Post subject:

I've thought about that, but haven't put that into action yet. Something i'll look into when I get the motor out again.
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323

Type 3 MegaSquirt Trigger Wheel: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5502150#5502150

supersuk · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:01 pm Post subject:

I know.... I forgot to oil the filters. Doh!!
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323

Type 3 MegaSquirt Trigger Wheel: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5502150#5502150

W1K1 · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:06 pm Post subject:

Those studs are pretty long, i would chop them off flush with top of the wingnuts first.
I notice you used the lower holes on the crossbar mounts too.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

supersuk · Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:03 pm Post subject:

Actually, these pics are about a month old. I changed the linkage to the top holes because it provided a better angle for everything to work more smooth.

The studs are a little long, but even if they were flush it'd be impossible to get the top off. Just not enough clearance...I thought about modifying the entire cover and sheetmetal to make more space, but it'd be too much work.
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323

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W1K1 · Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:02 pm Post subject:

I got the new HD aluminum bugpack push rods cut and assembled, set up the rockers and valves.
Did some blasting yesterday, the finish in the air filters and linkage was pretty poor so they got blasted as well as a 15" phonedial i have been putting off blasting. Now just have to decide on the color combo.

I was thinking along the lines of the parts for my bug, i just don't want to copy what i already did.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

Rome · Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:33 pm Post subject:

W1K1, for your air cleaner tops- you might consider what I did. On my engine, the 40 DCNFs are topped with "cheap" metal air cleaners. The tops were also very close to the underside of the engine compartment. All I did was to cut off the lip on the outer long side of each air cleaner top. This allows me to lift up the inner side of the top, then slide the top inwards to clear the engine compartment edge, and then fully off the engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I realize your air cleaner tops are cast aluminum, but you "could" do the same trimming. ONce installed, the lipless edge is not visible. The fastening wing nuts provide enough pressure on the air filter seal so that there should not be any dirt entry along that trimmed off edge.

W1K1 · Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:44 am Post subject:

The CB filter tops are a real snug fit for the filter element so that wouldn't work on them Rome.
I was thinking that if space was tight I would replace the stud with a short stud and a long 1/4" connector nut, that way I could thread a screw in from the top into the steel connector nut. With the flex of the filter element they would be easy to get off once the screws are out.

I forgot to mention that I match ported the manifolds to the L3 heads and lapped the faces of the manifolds to make sure they were flat. They sure aren't very flat out of the box. Plus i shortened the mounting studs on the manifolds so if I need to remove the carbs I don't have to fight with extra long studs getting in the way. I bought a bunch of the steel 3/8" hex head nuts for the 8mm studs so I can get a small socket in all the tight spots.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

mxracer · Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:34 am Post subject:

I bought 2" stainless screws for the Dell filters. Makes it a lot easier to get them on and off, especially when tuning and doing it what seems like a million times.

If any of you figure out a way to change plugs without pulling the engine (and actually do it, not just theorize about it Very Happy

) I'm all ears. I spend an hour trying to just get the 3-4 carb rear manifold nut back on one time. Now it's easier and less time to just drop the engine, change plugs and throw it back in. I've tried every combination of sockets, extensions, universal joints etc. with no luck.

What did you have to "bash up" on the tins? I am not running the "mustache" tins cause the manifolds take up so much space but I didn't have to modify any tin either.

W1K1 · Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:41 am Post subject:

mxracer · Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:37 pm Post subject:

hmm.. guessing it's a slight diff in the head and/or manifold

Guess it goes to show there are "no two alike" Smile

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