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PWM DC Speed Control for heater fan to replace resistor
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tclark
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:51 pm    Post subject: PWM DC Speed Control for heater fan to replace resistor Reply with quote

So a few years ago in another van I looked into
a few PWM controls to rid the front heater fan of the resistor pack
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2659721#2659721

But at the time i went for a quick fix well another van another dash R&R so this time I think I want to try PWM controls similar to this

http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1644

But if anyone has installed a working PWM I'd luv to use a known to work solution that just works I'd like to hear about it ...

-,model number with a separate rotary control
-location for the unit since its goona have a pretty big heat sink
-any pics of install
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squeegee_boy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the predecessor to this one:

http://www.robotshop.com/ca/productinfo.aspx?pc=RB-Cri-28&lang=en-US

The new one has changed the board layout, but the specs are the same.

Whatever you get, be certain the it's a "high frequency" unit. If it's not, your fan will make a screeching racket unless it's running at full speed (ask me how I know).

"High frequency" refers to the PWM switching rate of the controller. Slow units cause audible feedback from the motor they're controlling. If it doesn't say "high frequency" in the description, it's not.

The Quality Kits one you linked to has a switching speed of 100hz, which is very audible.

This one (for example) is a much better choice; it switches at 18khz:

http://criticalvelocity.com/item.php?itemid=spdc13


Robyn

Edit: Oh yeah, I mounted it behind the glove box and extended the blower power leads to reach. That way it has a good bit of open air, but it only gets mildly warm under use.
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gl98115
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeegee_boy wrote:

Edit: Oh yeah, I mounted it behind the glove box and extended the blower power leads to reach. That way it has a good bit of open air, but it only gets mildly warm under use.

Have you considered putting a fan on it to control the heat?
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tclark
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeegee_boy wrote:

I used the predecessor to this one:
http://www.robotshop.com/ca/productinfo.aspx?pc=RB-Cri-28&lang=en-US

I assume you get a remote rotary pot control so we can just have the dial in the same place as the std control I was thinking you just drill out the fan knob & slip it over the the rotary control of a pot like this ?
http://criticalvelocity.com/item.php?itemid=pot01

squeegee_boy wrote:

Whatever you get, be certain the it's a "high frequency" unit

Do you have range that will be quiet ?
What amp rating I assume to be safe 30AMP would be required ?

How long have you had that installed ?
.. does a PWM control cause extra ware & tear on the fan motor

nice to hear someone has been there done that Smile
I also see your near vanBC is that any where you can just buy this gear in the city w/o waiting for Inet delivery ?
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squeegee_boy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gl98115 wrote:
squeegee_boy wrote:

Edit: Oh yeah, I mounted it behind the glove box and extended the blower power leads to reach. That way it has a good bit of open air, but it only gets mildly warm under use.

Have you considered putting a fan on it to control the heat?


It doesn't seem to need it, just make sure the heatsink fins have a few inches of space around them. Convection will take care of the rest.

Robyn
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squeegee_boy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I assume you get a remote rotary pot control so we can just have the dial in the same place as the std control I was thinking you just drill out the fan knob & slip it over the the rotary control of a pot like this ?
http://criticalvelocity.com/item.php?itemid=pot01


Yeah, I used a 10k (I think) pot for mine, and put it place of the stock blower switch, which I drilled out.

Quote:
Do you have range that will be quiet ?
What amp rating I assume to be safe 30AMP would be required ?

30 amp is plenty. The blower draws under 10 at full throttle. A bit of headroom is nice, though.

The high frequency units are all 18khz or higher. Just look for the "high freq" designation and you'll be safe.

Quote:
How long have you had that installed ?
.. does a PWM control cause extra ware & tear on the fan motor


It's been over 2 years, and no, no extra wear on the motor. It's really nice having more or less infinite control of the speed.

Quote:
I also see your near vanBC is that any where you can just buy this gear in the city w/o waiting for Inet delivery ?


There may be, but I couldn't find one at the time. I just got it sent from robotshop, which was nice since I didn't have to deal with importing it.

Robyn
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tclark
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeegee_boy wrote:

Yeah, I used a 10k (I think) pot for mine, and put it place of the stock blower switch, which I drilled out.

There may be, but I couldn't find one at the time. I just got it sent from robotshop, which was nice since I didn't have to deal with importing it.

Robyn


I looked and did not see a nice simple pot on the Robo site did you have robo link for the pot you used

Wonder what frequency these ebay unit run at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Con...4943wt_802
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control...711wt_1404
Funny look like other auto sites are using these ebay units
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_DIY-Motor-Speed-Control/A_111507/article.html
http://www.virtualvillage.com/12v-30a-dc-motor-speed-control-pwm-hho-rc-controller-003601-054.html

Hmm 30khz
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-30A-360W-DC-Motor-Spee...649wt_1053
...but cant see any heat sinks

this looks really industrial
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/MDL-BDC24/296-25445-ND/2184732

interesting discussion on why hi-frequency pwm controller is required 20kHz looks optimum
http://www.4qdtec.com/pwm-01.html#heat
its both the noise issue 'magnetostriction' if the output frequency is in the audio band(20-20kHz)
and a motor heating issue if the pulse frequency is too low (see the article for the tech)

I can see either VC or TK now making this a kit Smile
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Last edited by tclark on Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:56 pm; edited 7 times in total
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squeegee_boy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
An aluminium plate is fixed to one side – this acts as a heatsink.


That's the heatsink Smile

Pots are available at any decent electronics store. Here's on in Burnaby:

http://www.rpelectronics.com/electronic-components...ingle-gang

They sell knobs, too.

Robyn
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeegee_boy wrote:

What amp rating I assume to be safe 30AMP would be required ?
30 amp is plenty. The blower draws under 10 at full throttle. A bit of headroom is nice, though.



EDIT just looking around a bit more this post
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4445955#4445955
claims 'It is 15 amps @ 14.2 volts'

so looks like 20 to 30AMPS is required the 15AMP
would only work for a brand new dc fan motor Smile
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, cool. Mine was 9.something brand new.

Robyn
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I am gonna order 1 of these "Shanghai Baikong Electric Motor" same as used in the DIY
autospeed.com article 30Khz, 350w pwm units
lots sold & feedback looks good so somethings from here work Smile
http://stores.ebay.com/Kimke-Wei/_i.html?_nkw=+12V...=948138090

I confirmed
1) the maximum output watts
2) the output frequency
hi
Maximum 350W.
30K

Best regards,

- kimke-wei-usa
Can i verify the wiring here
Assume color are as per the pwm controller from Shanghai Baikong Electric Motor

1) take the brown wire going from the star ground to the motor & connect that to (white) 1 pole for the motor on the pwm controller

2) take the yellow/black wire used to control the 3rd hi speed & connect that to (yellow) other pole for the motor on the pwm controller

3) Run a new ground wire from the star ground &
connect that to (Green) Negative ground connector for the power on the pwm controller

4) take the Red/Black power wire used to feed the existing fan switch & connect that to the (Red) POSITIVE connector for the power on the pwm controller

5) de-solder the 3 wires on the POT & replace with appropriate length wire & crimp on connectors... remote mount the pot behind the heater face plate

if the fan spins the wrong way reverse 1 & 2 ?
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Last edited by tclark on Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:21 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the ShangHai Baikong pwm arrived to day
I bench tested it connect to the std resistor pack & then to the pwm

But before that I pulled off the pwm cover
http://members.shaw.ca/trclark/vwvan/pwm/PWMBoard1.JPG
http://members.shaw.ca/trclark/vwvan/pwm/PWMBoard2.JPG
Note how they use the metal band & fasten the chip set to that & use the entire case as the heat sink, but I ran for 1hrs & the case did not even get warm

then I tested it powering it from a pc 12v dc supply rated at 360watts, 15max amps

at 1/2 speed it pulled just over 3 amps
http://members.shaw.ca/trclark/vwvan/pwm/HeaterPWMhalfSpeed3Amp.JPG

at full pot it was 6amps
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



hmm why am i not seeing the 9-15amps reported in the other threads ?

the crappy pc dc supply ?

Also I think there is a really high pitched wine at certain voltage level (also occurs with the resistor pack on speed 2) but not across the full spectrum of the pots scale.
I need to get it into the van since the test location already too much gear in there

I wanted to measure the output frequency
but the fluke 88 only works to 1Hz using the RPM/Hz feature but a local tv store has an oscilloscope & if i bring in the unit all hooked up he say $5 to scope it so I'll do that today for FUN ...I need a lfe Sad
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested mine from a spare car battery, because I didn't own a PS big enough. Try that maybe?

As for the frequency, it's a cool academic exercise (sorry, no I don't know how to make the meter do that), but if it were a low frequency unit, you'd know immediately. It's LOUD.

Robyn
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The whine is a by-product of the circuits that control the output to the fan motor. You can rid yourself of this by putting a filter choke between the control and the motor.

It's basically a low-pass filter to get rid of all that high frequency component that makes noise but doesn't do much work. We get this a lot driving 3 phase motors with a Variable Frequency Drive, using shaped DC output. You do have a choice to change the carrier frequency to a higher one, but that comes at the expense of more heat generated in the motor windings (OK with modern motors rated at 50 degrees C or better).

Just sayin'.

Thor-bob
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tclark wrote:

Can i verify the wiring here
Assume color are as per the pwm controller from Shanghai Baikong Electric Motor

1) take the brown wire going from the star ground to the motor & connect that to (white) 1 pole for the motor on the pwm controller

2) take the yellow/black wire used to control the 3rd hi speed & connect that to (yellow) other pole for the motor on the pwm controller

3) Run a new ground wire from the star ground &
connect that to (Green) Negative ground connector for the power on the pwm controller

4) take the Red/Black power wire used to feed the existing fan switch & connect that to the (Red) POSITIVE connector for the power on the pwm controller

5) de-solder the 3 wires on the POT & replace with appropriate length wire & crimp on connectors... remote mount the pot behind the heater face plate

if the fan spins the wrong way reverse 1 & 2 ?

Tclark, is the above correct? I'm doing this this weekend...
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:09 pm    Post subject: Screeching sound Reply with quote

This thread is very helpful, I stumbled upon it when researching wiper motor info and I am very glad that I did.

My heater has always made that screeching sound. I had always assumed that it was my blower motor, bearings and so on... It has, however, always stopped making the sound when I put the heater on high speed. As was stated in this thread.

I am currently replacing my entire unit with a new combination heater/A/C in dash unit from Small Car Performance. As discussed in the following thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7161810&highlight=#7161810

In this thread, Thor-bob stated:
“The whine is a by-product of the circuits that control the output to the fan motor. You can rid yourself of this by putting a filter choke between the control and the motor.”

Aside from the replacement of my original heater unit/blower motor, would I have to replace additional components in order to illuminate this screeching sound?

From what has been stated here I am not certain that this swap will illuminate this screeching sound.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Screeching sound Reply with quote

David Marquis wrote:
This thread is very helpful, I stumbled upon it when researching wiper motor info and I am very glad that I did.

My heater has always made that screeching sound. I had always assumed that it was my blower motor, bearings and so on... It has, however, always stopped making the sound when I put the heater on high speed. As was stated in this thread.

I am currently replacing my entire unit with a new combination heater/A/C in dash unit from Small Car Performance. As discussed in the following thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7161810&highlight=#7161810

In this thread, Thor-bob stated:
“The whine is a by-product of the circuits that control the output to the fan motor. You can rid yourself of this by putting a filter choke between the control and the motor.”

Aside from the replacement of my original heater unit/blower motor, would I have to replace additional components in order to illuminate this screeching sound?

From what has been stated here I am not certain that this swap will illuminate this screeching sound.

I just completed this mod (PWM controller), in addition to a new motor, and I no longer have screeching/squeeling (from the motor).

I do, however, now have a very faint high-pitched whine (not annoying enough to dissuade me), on the very lowest speeds. Once speeds are around 20% or more, i can't hear anything.

I now have infinite fan speed control, the fan motor is definitely quieter than before, and I finally fixed my defrost control cable/wire from the dash controls Very Happy

Here's the link to my build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7197938#7197938
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: pwm dc motor controller Reply with quote

so its been awhile since this post was started. what pwm controller have you ended up with and how has i worked for you? do you still have the whining noise? where did you mount the contoller? that old resistor creates a lot of heat and the factory mounted it in the plastic blower box.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been thinking about doing this for my sink faucet motor. Would be nice to get it down to a manageable flow that doesn't force water everywhere!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hans j wrote:
I've been thinking about doing this for my sink faucet motor. Would be nice to get it down to a manageable flow that doesn't force water everywhere!


Shurflo FTW
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