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[On the Road Again] #1969Westfalia
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoa Laughing
I see you edited your first post. And you engine is off to the builder. But you don't even know what you want yet. So was the plan that he was going to rebuild your engine or just take it in as a core trade in?
His add looked good. The conversion to a doghouse shroud and cooler is excellent and about the best thing you could do. That was only stock on a '71.
Now you're considering a dual port. Here's the deal- Evidently you didn't study the Wilson book to understand all the different changes on these engines. A dual port was first on a '71 and takes different cylinder heads, different cylinder tins, different intake manifold, and a different single stock carburator. And it was built on a '71 dual relief case. It develops more power. You don't just slap on a dual port.
Suggest you get quickly knowledgable and then talk with the builder before he starts doing anything.

Also here would be my suggestion for what kind of a basic engine you should have him build.
-1600 dual port, doghouse, on a dual relief, bus case (with the bus mounting holes).
-Highly preferable if he uses a later than '71 case with 8 mm head studs and case savers. Versus the earlier 10 mm studs. (less problems later)
-Have him machine the fullflow port per the normal standards.
-Have him plug the new pump and put on the fullflow pump cover. (Berg cover with it's supplied fitting probably will be your easiest and best.)
-For the engine to be smoother and last longer it wants to be balanced. Dynamic balance on the rotating group and weight balanced on the rods and pistons.
-Have him put on an aftermarket degree pulley right at the beginning instead of a stock pulley. It will save you and your engine much grief when you tune your engine. Cheap EMPI is fine, around $25.

Optional:
-Have him build it with a header instead of the stock muffler. Then once you install it put on a single quiet pack. Engine will breathe a lot healthier and probably not any more expensive than a stock muffler.
-Consider a mild bus cam versus stock. He's going to put in a new cam and lifters anyway so an upgrade to something like an Engle W-100 is a small deal.


Forget about filter adapter, fittings, hoses, etc. at this point. You do that when you install the engine. Your question about a $3 Ace hardware 45 degree fitting is the very least of any of your concerns for a long time.

Hope that helps get you on course. Once you work out all the specific details with the builder you can let us know. get the Tom Wilson book now, not later. Wink
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The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
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when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
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ccpalmer Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All excellent advice there. Get your engine basics worked out before getting into details. My recommendation would be to either stay stock or do a lot of reading and decide whether you want to kick up up a notch.

Not much difference between a single and dual port engine; I wouldn't worry too much about it if you stay stock. But if you want to kick things up a dual port would be a better base; just my 2 cents though. Many opinions.

But even on a stock motor make sure things get balanced and follow DBM's other basic advice about studs, bus case, full flow, camshafts. These things can only be done in the build-up. Pulleys, exhaust can be changed later.

And the filter location is very low on your to-do list - but having ducks in a row is a good thing. Here's how I did mine - just took a simple piece of aluminum stock and some drill bits and it mounts into stock threaded holes in the frame, no drilling/tapping needed on your vehicle.


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Kursive
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke with him today; he will be starting work on the engine sometime next week, I will get back to him on Monday with the parts I decide to order myself for installation.
So for the Full Flow, either the Geneburg Full Flow Kit, or I recently saw this one on ebay from SSS, with special steel oil pump cover and other high quality parts. Worth the extra $20? Billy still says the whole Full Flow is near useless, says the filter is useless on stock and doesn't see the need.

Degree pulley I believe he said he had one in stock, as well as some headers he pulled recently he would throw on mine. Cam, I'll invest in that a bit later I believe, though soon I'm sure. I would like to be able to notice the improvement before / after.

As for the case, he said it seems to be a dual relief already. I vaguely remember the PO mentioning the rebuild was a later case, but wasn't sure, seems now to be true! Would this also mean it is dual port?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kursive wrote:

As for the case, he said it seems to be a dual relief already. I vaguely remember the PO mentioning the rebuild was a later case, but wasn't sure, seems now to be true! Would this also mean it is dual port?


No; dual port heads/tins/manifolds can be put on either single or "dual" relief cases.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kursive wrote:

Cam, I'll invest in that a bit later I believe, though soon I'm sure. I would like to be able to notice the improvement before / after.


Your cam will have to be chosen before engine build (when you know your heads/carbs/exhaust components), and to change it you would have to split the case again...
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't you already tell us your engine was a single port? And the add you linked is a single port.
With the cam it's basically now or never.
With the FF kit- Like before, NO, not recommended. The Egay cover NO NO. Like before, the Berg cover is the good one for you.

Ask Billy why any other car and every other significant engine everywhere uses a filter. Wink
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The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley

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Kursive
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not so sure anymore about the single port, the PO didn't give me much information on the rebuild. I'll try and determine this on Monday.

So I think my final plan, for now, is to do the FF and the Engle W-100 Cam (which he also suggested was useless). If it is, in fact, dual port, would it not be good to get these things set in place in case I decide to go dual carb in the next few years? Besides, seems the FF and Cam are useful regardless.

I think I will stick with the Geneburg FF Kit, as well as the Engle W-100 Cam they offer.
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Last edited by Kursive on Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kursive wrote:
Not so sure anymore about the single port, the PO didn't give me much information on the rebuild. I'll try and determine this on Monday.

So I think my final plan, for now, is to do the FF and the Engle W-100 Cam (which he also suggested was useless). If it is, in fact, dual port, would it not be good to get these things set in place in case I decide to go dual carb in the next few years? Besides, seems the FF and Cam are useful regardless.

I think I will stick with the Geneburg FF Kit, as well as the Engle W-100 Cam they offer.


Can't go wrong with the Gene Berg and Engle 100. Dual carbs can be added later without much trouble; but you will need to remove your air cleaner stand for dual carbs; easier now than later..
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Kursive
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the addition of the Engle W-100 Cam, will any other changes be needed to accommodate?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kursive wrote:
With the addition of the Engle W-100 Cam, will any other changes be needed to accommodate?


Nope
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Kursive
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok cool Smile
Well I am back home and am going to be working to prepare the engine bay for the rebuilt engine.
So far, I plan to completely clean, replace rubber seals, fuel hoses, heater hoses, and whatever else I hopefully find.
Also, will do some rubber spray insulation? Not sure about that yet, but the builder mentioned a simple spray to assist in noise reduction.
Any other suggestions for the engine bay while it's open and serviceable? Rolling Eyes
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Kursive
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few noob questions if anyone can answer..
I've seen a few mentions of 1.1 or 1.2(5?) rockers needed to get the benefit of the Engle W-100, is this true? If so, all I have been able to find are shims for adjusting Question
Anyway, seems engine may be a bit longer in the making; seems the man he was helping out originally in my area (when he picked up my motor) needs more work than expected, no worries though, I'm just happy it's finally in the works Smile
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get additional benefit with aftermarket ratio rockers. However I use stock rockers with my W-100 and enjoy that benefit.
And I use swivel ball adjusters and solid rocker arm shafts for a bit more dependability and valve train life.
Even though you have a bus, the engine is actually a bug engine. That means you have an endless list of suppliers of engine components. Such as Chirco, CB Performance, SoCal Imports, etc.
_________________
The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley

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Kursive
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

4 of these Rockers 1.1:1 would do? Not completely sure yet, just looking it up.

Purchasing this Engle W-100 Camshaft, as well as this new cam gear.

Also looking to get the rubber seals for the engine compartment, would a engine compartment seal be what I need? Or these "surround seals" be what I need?
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Kursive
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, getting to the cleaning out. Degreaser and old scrub brush and elbow grease..
Here's a few pictures of the engine compartment

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished cleaning the engine compartment, didn't get the firewall removed (pretty stuck on w/o screws, seal glue?), which was okay because I ended up barely having time to finish what I did do.
Flying out early today, will order seals while I'm away and install them before the engine returns. Also need fuel lines.


the tools (minus a toothbrush I utilized near the end)
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and after
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the worst rust so far, bit of a hole Sad (dark 8 in the shade)
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also, just remembered, the top of the compartment has old, dried rubber mats. Awfully stiff, will need to be replaced? Or a substitute; have been hearing about 'rubber spray', think that would substitute the old mats, or just extra measure?
Will have to research a bit of soundproofing further.
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aryue
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yipes - I'll need to spend a day cleaning my engine compartment - the next time I pull the motor. That looks much nicer than mine.

- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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Kursive
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aryue wrote:
Yipes - I'll need to spend a day cleaning my engine compartment - the next time I pull the motor.


It takes some time but it's definitely worth it when you have the chance Smile


I'm trying to figure out exactly what seals I need for the engine compartment to have it completely renewed. I have been looking into it for a while, and am not quite sure about what I need..
So far I have mamotorworks engine to body rear, 2x engine side seals, firewall seal, compartment seal.
Will this cover it / are they the proper seals? If higher quality sources are known, please let me know Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to go for it and get those seals, pretty sure they fit, just hope it's all I need.
Now I think I need to get heater hose parts, as well as replace the fuel lines for safety.

There was a fuel filter? in the engine compartment, literally just hanging from the fuel lines, no clamp on either side. Not sure if that is necessary, but surely not safe.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now I'm looking more into preparing the bus all around to return to the road.
So far, I have the engine seals (hopefully correct firewall, rear seal (x2?) and compartment hatch seal), 5.5mm x 1m cloth braided fuel line; will have to take a look at the brakes, steering, and electrical asap to see if I need any specific replacement parts. New tires as well!
Will have to do plenty of reading to learn all the steps to get it completely ready and safe for the road. Though I do like the comprehensive nature of the Bentley, it is rather technical and specific; learning how to read it and about my VW simultaneously Rolling Eyes
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