Does CSP center linkage clear with tall manifolds?

[modok]

the effective leverage is the distance of the blue line.

Since you have moved the carbs up, and one link is longer then the other, the angle of the levers to the red lines is probably not quite equal anymore, also, it would be good if they hit 90 degrees a bit closer to idle than WOT, to make it slightly progressive in a good way.

[youngstah]

Modok thanks for taking the time and for the help here.

Below is a shot of the engine with the mod.
Main take away - leverage between each rod angle should be equal. I'll take a closer look at this. Looking at the picture does this look like the majority of my problem?

Any other comments re linkage arms?

I'm thinking to get the same leverage i may be able to add a height spacer at the bellcrank to adjust angle/leverage on the left side carb w/o altering the push rod. does this sound crazy?

[FreeBug]

I hate to say this, but guys, Push-Push? Really? Yuck!

If you center the linkage, so it is halfway between the two carbs longitudinally (half the offset), and get all the angles right, preferably with the linkage pivot ball-joints seperated apart by the same distance as the carb offset, you can have a really nice, even, Pull-Pull system. It's a lot of work, but I'm glad I did it. I had to order the left-handed die, though, and it was a lot of work.

Study the stock Type3 system, and emulate that, it was worked out by actual engine-ears.

Having said that, follow what Modok is saying, it will probably work just fine.

I messed up, very old thread.

[Tvättbjörn]

Having one rod with a bent on one side should not make any difference as long as the total distance between rod ends is the same between left and right rod. The center of the linkage has to be in center of the linkage lever on the carbs ( back to front ) .

In other words. If you are using a center pull / push linkage designed for straight up manifolds and using it on off-set manifolds that is going to cause incorrect opening angles.

[Ohio Tom]