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Oil pressure relief valve troubleshooting
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garagebandking41
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:34 pm    Post subject: Oil pressure relief valve troubleshooting Reply with quote

Had some questions with the oil pressure relief valve and how to see if it is functioning correctly.

I feel like i'm running too hot, and want to check if the pressure relief is functioning correctly. I have not experienced any green light flickering, but since i've never checked the relief valve, why not? My hope is that it is the culprit, and is not getting oil to the oil cooler.

I was just wondering if you remove it, will all the oil start pouring out of it? and what to check for proper functioning. It seems I can't find a replacement for it. As it is just a spring and piece of metal.
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SlimJimVinny
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I feel like i'm running too hot


Why? Do you have a temp gauge? If so, what does it say?

Quote:
if you remove it, will all the oil start pouring out of it?


Yes. But don't take my word for it, just wear your best shirt and go for it Very Happy
But, if you jack up the rear drivers side at a decent angle, the oil MIGHT slosh over enough to not lose much, if any. That's what I did, and it kept me dry.

As for proper functioning, I have no idea. If the light isn't flickering at idle, I'd say you have adequate oil pressure. If you're REALLY worried, do this.

1) Hook up an oil temp gauge.
2) Hook up an oil pressure gauge.
3) Look up the proper values for both, and then see where you stand...
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garagebandking41
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. good advice. I think i've running too hot, because I get this heat saturation effect when i'm running for a while, turn the engine off, and then come back 5 minutes later. Fuel gets vaporized in the fuel pump.

I posted an earlier thread about what i was experiencing. But basically I've drilled out the fuel pump stand a good bit, so i know the rod isn't being stuck, and none of my lines are blocked, or hot or nothing. So i figure, might as well look at heating. My tins all look good. and this overheating happened real sudden, leading me to believe something has failed. So i'm starting looking at oil going to the cooler, and next is looking at the oil cooler itself.

I dont have temp gauge, or oil pressure gauge. The dipstick isn't too hot to touch, but the distributor is, and considering its right next to the fuel pump, heat transfer is likely happening there.
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bruce jones
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some years back, a run of aftermarket pressure relief pistons (plungers) were made a few thousandths oversize, and they would hang up in the bore and fail to seat properly. This would result in a chronic low oil pressure problem, which could be a cause of a high engine temperature. You might check to see if yours is seating to full depth.

I think the original kits are still available from VW (part number 113-198-033) which included both control and relief plungers (for the dual-relief cases). These OEM parts always seemed to be in spec, unlike some of the aftermarket items. If VW doesn't have them any more, try Berg.
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you are now starting a new thread about your old problem, ( a no no by the way), how about posting the specs of the car and engine so the right information is given to you.

It is always most helpfull to you and others who may have a similar problem, if you keep an original thread going by adding information, rather than jumping in with the same problem again, opening up a second or third can of worms.

For whats is worth go buy a long Turkey or Meat thermometer, and drop it in the dipstick tube. It will give you a pretty close idea on oil temperatures, which generally runs fairly close to case temperatures. Be sure to check its accuracy against a known good thermometer, or known temperature.

What type of fuel pump are you using?
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garagebandking41
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread isn't ABOUT my old problem. It's about what to look for on a oil pressure relief valve, and I asked if oil would come pouring out of the hole if i wanted to check. I even alluded to the original post. Different topics, different thread.

But anyways. It's a 1500 SP, 1967 vert, running stock Pierburg fuel pump, which is recently rebuilt. But again, my fuel pressure problem is not what this post is about. its about my oil...
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok if you say so...but
You think its running hot per your issue with the fuel pump "vaporizing" so now your heading for oil pressure relief valve..
Sound like your still fishing for answers to the same problem to me.

Just trying to help you get an accurate answer that can also be helpful to others.

To answer your question. No. All the oil will not pour out, but you will have a nice amount of oil draining back from the oil galleys.

Get the meat thermometer, its a cheap aid in temperature diagnosis. Right now your testing blind. Just because its hot to your hand doesnt mean its hot. The old touch test method is a flawed test as everyones "feel" is different.
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Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch that "certain" video here.
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out.... then let em' rot out.
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garagebandking41
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate all the help. I will try these things you mentioned.

Volkswagnut, definitely agree, its good to make all threads clear for other users to benefit from, part of the reason this is a new thread. also, I wasn't looking for a diagnosis, just information on the relief valve that I couldn't find with the search function. Also, I've tried all things on that original post with not much luck, so I decided to just tear into it, and check all the things I've little knowledge about. Hence, the different post. Trying to learn as much as possible!

And Bruce Jones,

Thanks for the part number Gene Berg does have that kit, for about 25 bucks. but there's no picture or description, but I assume it's what i'd need. I will get the rear end up on jack stands, and try not to get too messy, and see if mine is perhaps sticking.
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SlimJimVinny
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This doesn't sound to me like an oil pressure issue.
If it'll make you feel better by all means replace the spring. For 25 bucks, hell why not?

Quote:
I dont have temp gauge, or oil pressure gauge.


Have you diagnosed the oil light? That IS your oil pressure gauge, and it flickers at (someone help me out here) psi or below.

Before replacing parts and tearing into stuff, maybe make sure that's working as it should. If it is, your pressure is fine, and there's no reason to replace the spring because your problem lies elsewhere.

And if your oil pressure is fine and your engine is getting hot enough to vapor lock the fuel pump, that's probably a big deal. Are you running too lean? Timing too far advanced? Fan should/cooling fins blocked?

x2 on the candy thermometer down the dipstick hole.

Diagnose the oil pressure light and use a thermometer to tell how hot the oil really is. These are both simple, easy and cheap and you'll know a lot more than you do know...
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