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Pete's '67 Squareback Build
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 4:29 am    Post subject: Pete's '67 Squareback Build Reply with quote

Hi everyone, my name's Peter.

This is actually my first post, I joined years ago when I first saw a Type 3 and wanted to know more. I have been back and reading a fair bit more recently. I've decided though that the time is long overdue to introduce myself and my future daily driver, an older (kind of) model Squareback.

I've had the car for almost a year and have been slowly collecting the tools and parts to get it repaired, back together and running how I would like it to.

Initially I had just wanted to patch the visible rust areas and clean it up to get it on the road, although as I started poking about I found a few reasons to give the car the extra attention I think it deserves. The steering column was attached using a cracked piece of timber decking for a spacer and missing pan bolts are the most interesting found so far. Nothing too unreasonable to fix, but still pretty disconcerting.

The car itself has a fairly solid body and pan, and is actually a '67 model body mounted to a '71 pan. I purchased the car this way, and was aware when I bought it. At the time I was looking to buy an early model Type 3 was quite hard to find where I live. I suppose the benefits of this arrangement are that I have a pan with IRS and front discs as well as 12v electrical. The engine is a dual port 1600cc.

Anyway, that's enough from me for now. Here are a few pictures of my Square.

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Edit - And a clearer, more recent picture. This is still from before any work has been done. At the moment most parts are being taken off, bagged and tagged.

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vdubin
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good looking square. The 67 was the first year to be 12v but the pan swap is a nice thing. I personally prefer irs to swing axle. Good luck with the project and keeps posted.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I notice that the engine is carbed. I think 69 should have been FI, so the engine (or at least the intake) may be from the 67 car that the body came from.

Which may make sense. The FI engine would also require a "return" fuel line running back to the tank, which would not be part of a 67 body.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a RHD OZ/NZ car, so I don't think they were necessarily FI? Don't 'bag and tag' that quiet pack muffler, as they are junk(too big/low). Wink
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I'm going to take good care of it.

The number on the case suggests that it's a carbed engine from the '71, the car came with two separate intakes. This one and a slightly fatter looking twin carb one which I'm assuming may have been on the '67 (the right hand 'ear' for the carb is attached to the main air cleaner part, rather than being separate). The width of the other intake is a bit different, too.

The muffler is most likely the reason my rear skirt is so beat up on the right hand side. It's currently on the garage floor, and probably won't fit back on once the skirt is straight again.
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Spun Main Bearing? Reply with quote

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I split my engine case yesterday morning to find this pitting at the main bearing, which looks pretty heavy. The bearing itself seems to have spun, burning up the surface of the case.

I would imagine from seeing this that I will be looking for a new case, but thought it might be best to get a couple of extra opinions. The pitting here looks to be deeper than what might be resurfaced in a line bore procedure?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It must be water or heat damage? If you post pictures of this in the Performance Engine/Transmission Forum I think the Pros there will tell you your case can be used, since the bearing is stationary. There was a case shown the other day with big grooves in the case bearing surfaces that was deemed usable.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Spun Main Bearing? Reply with quote

really-whale wrote:


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I would imagine from seeing this that I will be looking for a new case, but thought it might be best to get a couple of extra opinions. The pitting here looks to be deeper than what might be resurfaced in a line bore procedure?

That just looks like porosity in the metal. I cant tell but it could have been welded. I don't think there is any problem with it but what is the case at? if you can fill a bump where the oil grove in the bearing meets the case and it is at .060 then I would be shopping a case. What do the other saddles look like?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Spun Main Bearing? Reply with quote

really-whale wrote:
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Shocked holy unbelievable thrust cut! an oversize bearing AND a thick shim? scary. that little gap between the bearing and the case should not be there either. if that gap is there when the bearing is seated, it's the wrong bearing, and all those chatter marks and wear on the case are probably from the crank and bearing flopping around and beating on the case.
what size has the case been cut to (line bore)? how many times has that case already been cut? what size is the crank? that case has been beat significantly over the years.

i would not use a case in that condition. it's beyond what i would consider to be serviceable.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank-you for the super quick replies everyone.

Mike - I have the book already, and have been following it through disassembly. The books have been a great help so far, but this is my first VW and the first engine I've pulled apart so there are a few things I'm unfamiliar with. I hope I'm not asking too many stupid questions. I probably should start a thread in the engine forum with the questions I'm sure that I will have soon.

flyinglow94 - The oil groove in the bearing is the deep central groove? I can certainly feel the difference in the saddle where the bearing sits compared to where there is space left by the groove. The other saddles actually look quite smooth, especially in comparison! Not sure if it has been line bored before, though guessing how hazetguy has mentioned an oversize bearing I think it might have been. I can't tell by looking though and will have to measure it.

hazetguy - I don't think the bearing is quite seated in these pictures, but I'll have to have a closer look - the bearing has certainly moved while the case was closed as I've noticed the pin has enlarged it's hole in the case. As for how many times the case has been cut I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be too surprised at anything (including and improperly sized bearing) as it is right now. I'm pretty sure the crank is standard though. You're right though about it looking beat up. Thanks for your honest opinion!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Spun Main Bearing? Reply with quote

[quote="hazetguy"]
really-whale wrote:
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I think the case has seen better days. I didn't even notice the crazy snap ring to space the already over size thrust cut on the #1 bearing and if the bearing has moved and elongated the locating pin hole then the last line bore was over sized or the last rebuild was done with no line bore at all. Ant way Hazwtguy is correct in saying that case is finished and you would be money ahead to find a better replacement.
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your help - looks like it's going to be a new case!
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:38 am    Post subject: Posts to move to Engine Build thread? Reply with quote

I'm hoping to start an engine build thread over in the Performance Engine/Transmission Forum and move the last few posts over. Is there an easy way to do this?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just want to say thanks for asking the "stupid" questions as the answers always help me out. Smile (The questions aren't so stupid to me.) Best of luck with this. Keep us posted on this build. It looks like a nice car.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are right hand drives that were sent to australia different. If that car is a 67 why does it have fat molding and bullet turn signals. 67 was also the only year to have the lock below the handle on the outside and have the pull up lock on the inside. Maybe someone changed the fenders and drilled it out for the big chrome. Not trying to pick just wanted to see if that was a australia thing. Kinda cool if so.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwfanatic67 wrote:
Are right hand drives that were sent to australia different. If that car is a 67 why does it have fat molding and bullet turn signals. 67 was also the only year to have the lock below the handle on the outside and have the pull up lock on the inside. Maybe someone changed the fenders and drilled it out for the big chrome. Not trying to pick just wanted to see if that was a australia thing. Kinda cool if so.


VW had a factory in OZ, apparently there wasn't much rhyme or reason for why things were done the way they were done.
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really-whale
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick - Love your going rogue thread, it's one of my favorites!

vwfanatic67 - Nick's right. A lot of Australian Type 3s were assembled in Clayton, Victoria from knocked down cars shipped over from Germany. There are a few Hella parts on my car that are marked 'Made in Australia' but from what I know most other parts were shipped over. Apparently they weren't as strict about what goes on a car from year to year over here, there are certainly a few differences between cars.

That's not to say my Square is original, it's fairly likely there have been a few changes made. I have the separate locks and handles on the outside, and pull handle locks on the inside. When you mention the pull up lock, do you mean a button on the top of the door body that pulls upward? I'd assumed they were only on later body cars. I also have non-locking seats - I'm not sure if most '67 cars had them, or even if mine were originally this way.

Heath - There are plenty more stupid questions I'm ready to ask, just have to make sure I space them evenly so as not to try everyone's patience.
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IAMIROY
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice car! Man right hand drive Type 3s are cool!

I'm about ready to tear down a motor, crossing my fingers it doesn't look like that Shocked but more than likely it will.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with your engine, IAMIROY.

Mine's going to keep nagging me for cash, I can tell already. I will to try to do it right the first time, but I'd also like to do as much of it myself as I can.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to order a 1776 custom built,pre-run,guaranteed long block from Chirco in AZ etc. I don't even know what they charge yet though?
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