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How do I Hot Wire a 72 Bug......
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jodybug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:12 pm    Post subject: How do I Hot Wire a 72 Bug...... Reply with quote

No I'm not looking to go out and take somebodies Bug!!!!
I picked up a 72 auto stick Bug over the weekend. The ignition lock and key have been removed from the housing. Is there a way of starting the motor to see if it will run and if it is any good?
Also can anybody tell how an auto stick works? I have never driven one.
Is it costly to convert over to the standard 4 speed?
Thanks,
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cookrw
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All you need is +12V to the coil, and the starter to turn. So, the easiest way, in my opinion, would be to:
1) Run a wire from the battery to the coil and hit the starter with a wrench; but given that you will probably use this again, you might want to invest in something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7853-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B0009XQUKW

2) The other method requires using two batteries, one for the starter, in the car, and one for the coil that you can just have back by the engine with you. Same hit the starter with a wrench as before.

WARNING: You are taking a risk doing it this way, because unless you do something to hook it up, the oil pressure warning light won't work.
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Itawayoflife
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot wiring: off the ignition take the thick solid red wire (power all the time from fuse block) and the thin black wire (power to the coil) and twist them together. The take the thick red & black wire and hold it to the other two wires until the engine starts and then let go the red & black wire so it doesn't touch the other two while the engine is running. I don't recommend doing this for long periods of time. It can cause the black wire to overload and burn. You should get the ignition switch fixed before you start driving it.

The auto stick is like driving a manual without a clutch. You still have to shift through the gears like a manual, you just don't have to push the clutch pedal to shift. Here is a better explanation: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/69bug/page20.jpg
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it wont hurt a thing.
if you release the starter wire after it starts.

the key switch is just a switch.

you could wire in a toggle switch replacing the ign wire pair.
an SPST switch rated over 6amps.

then add a horn button (off the shelf) to the start wire pair.
or any momentary N.O. SPST switch (spring loaded) (over 8 amps rated)

now you have , dune buggy wiring. ( illegal in texas,btw) (not safe)


this wont work on my car due to many tricks added.
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jodybug
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first pic is of the steering column.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
It looks like the PO took out the ignition module (must have lost the key) and put the piece of pipe in there to depress the tab so the steering wheel lock would not work, thus being able to steer the car.

Some other shots of the car.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Its in fair condition. The motor looks good too, but I won't know til I get it running.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

your PO , scare the crap out of me....
ever have a car lock steering ,while moving, I have. and never again.
cuz im on a cloud now , with Harpo Marx.
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jodybug
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure he drove it like that, just might have done it since he lost the keys and wanted to steer it while he was pushing it into his garage or something like that.
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JimmyB68
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a big red wire under the back seat that goes to the starter ? not the one from the battery. tap that on the battery pos to crank . mine had a black wire at the fuse box that powers the coil . moved it over till i found a spot with 12v all the time .wham it ran !
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ch88ky
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject: did it earlier Reply with quote

on my 1973 1303s
there is a wire with a big black connector on the steering column
put wire in each of the slots on it and then touch about 3 of them together and it should work
it worked for me
thanks
-Laura.x
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we can send you the cars schematic.
it's obvious what to jump

it's just 2 wires. you can jump a car in 3 places.
key (or behind dash)
behind seat
or
at coil and starter direct.

look at the drawing, it is the simplest system made.
like from 1900 to your year bug.

2 wires.
one for coil (send power to coil)
one for cranking. send power to solenoid.

that is why we have a post here to stop theft, for that very reason.

you can also, put power to the coil, (lots of ways)
then crawl under car and jumper the solenoid, pushing car on to a curb half way helps that. or getting hands on same wire that is behind firewall.

here is that wire see it.

see wire 15 and 50
see the 2 , T1 junctions. they are so easy to find. No crawling on ground.

see later post for real SCHEMATIC !

if you erase all the lighting you have what, not much.


Last edited by schadenfreude on Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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JonF
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the quickest easiest way to hot wire a bug...
take the wire off of the tag light plug it into the +plus side of the coil. this way you can turn your headlights on and it makes the coil hot.

now to spin the starter.... on the drivers side under backseat is a T1 connector. red wire in diagram post above but could be red with black stripe. it is the wire that runs from the key to the starter. unplug the wire from the T1 take the part of the wire going to the back of the car and tap it on the +plus side of the battery and the starter will spin.

now with doing it like this you turn the headlights on and the coil will be hot. turn the headlights off and it will turn the car off when it is running.

dont try to drive around like this. the steering column can lock on you and your stuck going the direction it locks in and can cause you to wreck your car.
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JimmyB68
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gone In 60 Seconds !!! LOL
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Volksronnie
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy BRILLIANT !!!....just logged on to find a wiring diagram - and bingo, found one in two seconds
...what a great site
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: How do I Hot Wire a 72 Bug...... Reply with quote

jodybug wrote:

Is it costly to convert over to the standard 4 speed?
Thanks,

expect to spend about 2000 in parts and labor to have a mechanic convert it. if you want a 4 speed, it's far more cost effective to buy one already so equipped.

jodybug wrote:

It looks like the PO took out the ignition module (must have lost the key) and put the piece of pipe in there to depress the tab so the steering wheel lock would not work, thus being able to steer the car.

your po is a f#$%ing idiot if he drove it like that, and a solid darwin award candidate.

also, get rid of that fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb. unless you want to turn your beetle into a roadside bbq.
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[air cooled vw's] are no longer suitable for the general public. The owner has to be be able to maintain the car. And that is after fixing all the deferred maintenance items and ill-conceived modifications. If you can't do those things you are pretty much screwed.
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is a great site, and tons of data, books, manuals, and drawing and schematics. i think there are people here that can peel any onion as deep as you want. for sure.
just asks for help.

yes, for 100 years, you can hot wire anything.
today ylou need a NASA engineer and a crypto genius.

try changing a speedo in a new car, Hhahahahahahaha
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jodybug
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I'm under the rear seat and i have a coule junction boxes. Heres a pic.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Is this all stock from the factory under here?
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jodybug wrote:
OK, I'm under the rear seat and i have a coule junction boxes. Heres a pic.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Is this all stock from the factory under here?



the main power cable runs down the left side and enters
that large grommet hole , on the right rear , in photo,.
im guessing
but it looks like PO, put in the STARTER RELAY kit. (NO, ITS DEFROST)
you can trace the wires from the front to the rear
with any continuity testers (DMM with beeper on) or a powered test light.
and find any wire. but if the colors are the same end to end then
just look at the colors.
find the colored wire for COIL and for start.



that inline fuse on right is not stock?, but i dont have all years schematics in front of me. at the Gen, voltage reg !
but is a good idea. for circuits not fused,before...


Last edited by schadenfreude on Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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jodybug
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for all this info.

Why would PO put in a starter relay and whats its function over a stock factory set up?
Are we talking about the little junction block at the rear?
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i go to tech lib (rigth top tab above)
i find this.
J9

its black that is the coil. 2.5mm size !

the coil wire runs down left side in a large harness tube.
it then goes up to that huge grommet under left rear seat at end of
HEATER TUBE frame RAIL.
the 72 dont have the T1 plug like mine. under seat, so youd have to cut the wire.
and put in a J-box and terminal.
that wire is 2.5mm size "coil"

the next wire is a huge red wire. #50 and is 4mm size wire.
so youd have to cut it and splice in 1 more terminal jack .
all those wires feed via the same huge black plastic harness tube on the left side of the body.

so hot wiring a 72 is tad harder under the seat (unlike my 68 )
the best place is at the dash. (trunk side)
at T1 and Fuse 12 (top in photo)
cheers, !


PS:
the drawings are clear,,, no ?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by schadenfreude on Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:52 am; edited 1 time in total
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schadenfreude
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the least damaging way? oops, pull battery minus cable first !
beside new key switch.

install a SPST toggle switch , with a wires to
Fuse 9 and 12 (they sell 2 to 1, fuse block terminals) called Y terms.
this will be labeled Ignition
then one more switch.
switch ( a cheap horn switch?) from fuse 9 to T1
label it start. (how to tie in to T1 is the challenge) but is not hard.

done.
use 16gage wire. (min)

both switches need to be near or over 10amp rated. (6-8 amps actual)
1amp switches have not a chance.

dont for get to take steering wheel with you or gear shift
Like Mr Bean does (Comedian)
or it will be gone in 1second.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=YKv90WGMtGI#t=1158s


sorry it has commercial in it, but ,watch the dumb thief.


Last edited by schadenfreude on Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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