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Heat exchanger and exhaust removal
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Heat exchanger and exhaust removal Reply with quote

So, I am on to my next winter bus project, i.e., to remove the heat exchangers as I suspect I have an exhaust leak (at least on the right side). While I am at it I plan to remove the fan shroud to replace my leaky oil cooler seals too. I have read a number of threads on the topic. I am wondering what are my chances of removing all 8 exhaust nuts without any hitches like having to replace studs or effing up my heads? I am soaking them with PB Blaster and will clean them up as best I can first. Any advice or thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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bsairhead
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do not get in a rush. PB blast is good so is time and heat. If they do not brake free at first try tightening than loosening back and forth. If all this fails cut the nuts off and chase the threads.
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75bus4/me
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just did my driverís side. BP blast for 3 days and tight loose back and forth worked.
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420GOAT
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tap on the nut /stud after pb blasting. just a minute or so each.
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I am making good progress on this project just working a little each night in between running kids around. I have everything removed for the fan housing area (alternator, fan, therm cable, tin, etc...) I have new exhaust studs (just in case) and self locking nuts, new oval copper exhaust seals, oil cooler seals, etc...Currently the exhaust bolts are soaking in PB Blaster but I was able to loosen them each a bit and then gave them another dose of PB, I'm in no hurry.

But I was wondering why the good folks at VW did not make it so you could remove the fan housing without removing the exhaust? Seems to me that if the little covers (2) that are on TOP of the exchanger where they connect to the shroud where placed on the SIDE (towards the rear) you could then remove the shroud by pulling it back. Or the 4 fan shroud mounting holes could be slotted to allow you to lift enough to clear the exhaust and then back off? But I digress.....
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:


But I was wondering why the good folks at VW did not make it so you could remove the fan housing without removing the exhaust?


You can (I did), but it's better to do it right.
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But I am looking for it to be easy! Very Happy This time around, I wanted to remove the exhaust to fix a leak but for folks who just want to change oil cooler seals wouldn't it be nice?
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Mr Gage
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only problem I had with mine was the clamps at the very bottom under the mustash bar. The devil put them there, I swear he did, getting them off is semi hard, but getting new ones on in a sick joke.




P.s. Semi hard. hu hu hu
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Making progress an hour at a time. I have the fan shroud removed and looking forward to cleaning things up. The right heat exchanger was replaced at some point so it looks clean but the left despite its grubbiness is solid. Also, three of the four old copper exhaust seals were very stubborn and took a lot of work to get out!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here is the "money shot". Any thoughts on the oil between between the head and jug on #4. Hoping it is from the oil cooler...I have good compression in that cylinder.

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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has me a bit baffled? On my #2 exhaust port there is a hole that looks to be there by design? In the hole there is a plug like thing that almost looks to have an allen type head? It is right on the mating surface where the copper ring goes. Sorry for the blurry pic, I have an ancient digital camera. Has anybody ever seen this before? Of course I am concerned as to how I can get a good seal.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There should a a stud there that goes through the collar on the heat exchanger.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EZ Gruv wrote:
There should a a stud there that goes through the collar on the heat exchanger.

I think he's referring to the dark spot on the gasket surface at roughly 1:00.

I have no idea why that's there if it is a threaded hole, possibly a roadside fix for a casting flaw or eroded seal surface? Seems sketchy to me either way Confused
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Busdaddy, I am referring to the dark spot. Any ideas on a remedy other than replacing the whole head?

EZ...I have new studs, just haven't put them in yet. Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:
. Any ideas on a remedy other than replacing the whole head?

None that I'd be confident recommending, welding would be my first choice but it depends alot on the overall health of the heads in general first.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I year ya...it is just really odd. If someone did it purposefully I can not see what the purpose could possibly be. It is not threaded but the plug in there looks to be pressed in. Surprisingly it looks like the seal was fine prior to pulling it? Go figure...I'll have to sleep on it a while...
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly a casting flaw of some kind. Someone may have tried to fill it with JB Weld or something.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the gasket got stuck and someone drilled a hole in the copper ring to get it out, and the drill 'slipped'. I would try to plug the hole with a lttle piece of metal, like a brass dowel.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya know, while you've got the shroud off would be a good time to replace the two oil gallery freeze plugs at that end of the engine. I say this because I didn't, and four months later I had to pull it all apart again to do it. Grrr.

Is this engine still in the vehicle?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="jtauxe"]Ya know, while you've got the shroud off would be a good time to replace the two oil gallery freeze plugs at that end of the engine. I say this because I didn't, and four months later I had to pull it all apart again to do it. Grrr.

Is this engine still in the vehicle?[/quote

Not a bad idea, but for myself I don't like doing freeze plugs with the engine together unless under duress, like when I did one in a less than convenient spot in Mexico. I would advocate for doing a bit of extra peening around the plugs though as one can easily make it where the plugs are many times harder to remove by doing so.
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
I think the gasket got stuck and someone drilled a hole in the copper ring to get it out, and the drill 'slipped'. I would try to plug the hole with a lttle piece of metal, like a brass dowel.


I thought of this reason too Scott but I can't imagine why they went so deep? I was thinking of filling it as you suggest but I was thinking of using copper as it is malleable and I could use a punch to really get it formed in there...like filling a tooth!
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