Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Heat exchanger and exhaust removal
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I feel good about how I remedied this situation. I used copper from the old exhaust gasket and formed it into a plug then pressed it in the hole and tapped it in there with a punch and hammer. My progress had been slowed as I am nursing a sore elbow. Sad
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
curtis4085
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
curtis4085 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eh?
_________________
Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Stuartzickefoose
Samba Post Whore


Joined: February 07, 2008
Posts: 10350
Location: SoCal for now...
Stuartzickefoose is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:
Making progress an hour at a time. I have the fan shroud removed and looking forward to cleaning things up. The right heat exchanger was replaced at some point so it looks clean but the left despite its grubbiness is solid. Also, three of the four old copper exhaust seals were very stubborn and took a lot of work to get out!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the "money shot". Any thoughts on the oil between between the head and jug on #4. Hoping it is from the oil cooler...I have good compression in that cylinder.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



just how hard is it to take off the fan shroud? and is the engine still in the car? i gotta do my exhaust soon (punched a couple holes offroading recently....) and i gotta replace the TO bearing....so wondering what else i need to do.
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the motor is still in the bus. It is not hard to remove the fan shroud but you need to remove a lot of "stuff" (various tin, fan, ground wires, exhaust, alternator). This a good time to replace your alternator boot and oil cooler seals if needed.
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, after dragging my feet for a while I am buckling down to get things back together. Getting the heat exchangers back on took a little doing as it was a tight fit and those suckers have a little weight to them. Then I got all the tin back on. Left to do: muffler, new foam seal, connect the battery, and fire it up. Fingers crossed for good exhaust seal....
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:
Fingers crossed for good exhaust seal....


Well apparently crossing your fingers has no bearing on getting a good exhaust seal. Oh well...So off with everything and this time I am going to diligently follow the Ratwell write up. So far I can see that the pipes were not level relative to each other and I managed to shave off a sliver of head metal and pin it between the sealing surfaces.

I also realize that I am the only one following and adding to this thread...but I don't care... Very Happy
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
webwalker Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: January 26, 2006
Posts: 2803
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
webwalker is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:

I also realize that I am the only one following and adding to this thread...but I don't care... Very Happy


I'm following. Everytime someone is documenting their work, I'm trying to follow along.

M
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .81 4th
Click to view image
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks brother...so tonight I also drilled the holes on the exhaust pipe "ears" to a little bit larger diameter. I used a 25/64" (9.9mm) drill bit and it took some work to get through that German steel! But with the new studs in the head it was a really snug fit and I was concerned that the H/E would bind and keep the mating surfaces from meshing good. Spent some time with the file tonight...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Wildthings
Samba Member


Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50255

Wildthings is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bevel the edges of the mating surfaces just a bit once you have them filed flat. As you have found out a sharp edge will dig a sliver off of the heads which will in turn prevent the gaskets from sealing.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks WT... I remembered your post talking about this a while back and I thought, "this won't happen to me"...WRONG! Thanks for the reminder. Very Happy
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so 2.5 hours later I think I got the exhaust "j" pipes filed nice and level relative to one another. As it turned out the file I was using was not perfectly flat (it is slightly concave on one side and slightly convex on the other) so this caused a little frustration. But I kept at it and used a straight edge to keep checking until all was good. I found that shining a flashlight from the other side while holding the straight edge helped to identify low spots. I will probably check it 50 more times before reassembly (my OCD at work).
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
whatdoesthisbuttondo?
Samba Member


Joined: April 05, 2012
Posts: 259
Location: Victoria
whatdoesthisbuttondo? is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been following this for a few weeks. Have you tried the fit again?
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not yet but close. I had to wait for new for copper gaskets (came today) as when I shave off some of the head metal and pinned it to the copper gasket and left a dent so I wanted to get a new one. I had to drill out the holes to 25/64 to get the HE's to slide over the studs with relative ease. So I am hopeful. I will certainly share how it turns out (hopefully tomorrow).
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
SGKent Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
SGKent is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure you heat and soften the new copper rings per Ratwell's instructions otherwise the copper is rock hard which works well in a perfect world. You need the copper to be softer so it conforms to the gap as a VW engine with wear those parts aren't like new anymore.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
busdaddy
Samba Member


Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51057
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
busdaddy is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a little concerened that if it's bent enough to require enlarging the stud holes will it hang up on the edges of the ports now?

Usually if it won't slide on I jack, bend or twist the pipes until it does, not drill.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I annealed the copper rings. As for enlarging the holes...I did test fit them and they now fit nice and do not hang up on anything. Actually, it is nice to just have that tiny bit of wiggle room to orient the mating surfaces. I think what happened is the new studs, although still M8, have a more pronounced thread than the old ones (make sense?) it was just too tight and caused a misalignment and thus the shaving off of the head metal. I'm not sure bending would have worked? We'll see how it all works out soon...as always I appreciate the input.
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if you use Loctite 518 upon reassembly of your exhaust do you need to give it some cure time before you fire up the motor? I do recognize that it cures in the absence of oxygen...but how long does it take...

EDIT: Found my answer here: http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/518-EN.PDF
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
nathansnathan
Samba Member


Joined: April 14, 2008
Posts: 1671

nathansnathan is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something people forget to do when they file the heat exchangers is to file the top of the shoulder, too. There's only 2mm of crush to start with, before they bottom out.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
atmellovw
Samba Member


Joined: September 05, 2006
Posts: 1652
Location: Minnesota
atmellovw is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nathansnathan wrote:
Something people forget to do when they file the heat exchangers is to file the top of the shoulder, too. There's only 2mm of crush to start with, before they bottom out.


I thought of this and took those measurements very carefully. I even made four little measuring "devices" out of scrap sheet metal for each port to be sure. I now have NO EXHAUST LEAKS...feels so good. I also have no oil leaks (currently) as I replaced some very smushed and brittle oil cooler seals.
_________________
1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
SGKent Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
SGKent is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

atmellovw wrote:
nathansnathan wrote:
Something people forget to do when they file the heat exchangers is to file the top of the shoulder, too. There's only 2mm of crush to start with, before they bottom out.


I thought of this and took those measurements very carefully. I even made four little measuring "devices" out of scrap sheet metal for each port to be sure. I now have NO EXHAUST LEAKS...feels so good. I also have no oil leaks (currently) as I replaced some very smushed and brittle oil cooler seals.


Awesome
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Page 2 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.