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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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i think i made my oil leaks worse when i replaced my push rob tube seals.
maybe ill take care of it when i rebuild (in a few years) _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3777 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:23 am Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
I'm a little concerened that if it's bent enough to require enlarging the stud holes will it hang up on the edges of the ports now?
Usually if it won't slide on I jack, bend or twist the pipes until it does, not drill. |
The problem with bending or twisting is it will throw off any effort one puts into filing the pipes flat to one another. It generally doesn't take much filing. If they are flat to begin with they'll seal even without annealing of the copper gaskets.
The Loctite 518 will carbonize and aid in sealing. Also helps hold the gaskets in place during install of the pipes. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:54 am Post subject: |
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udidwht wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
I'm a little concerened that if it's bent enough to require enlarging the stud holes will it hang up on the edges of the ports now?
Usually if it won't slide on I jack, bend or twist the pipes until it does, not drill. |
The problem with bending or twisting is it will throw off any effort one puts into filing the pipes flat to one another. It generally doesn't take much filing. If they are flat to begin with they'll seal even without annealing of the copper gaskets.
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I agree, but usually the bending occurs before any filing takes place. Get it so it slides on nice first and then dial in the surfaces.
Congratulations on the sucessful sealup there Atmello, it's nice when you can immediately see the result of all the sweat. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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atmellovw Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2006 Posts: 1652 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks...so glad it is done and I look forward to some "low pressure" maintenance like washing and waxing and of course cruising and camping! My tendonitis afflicted elbow is glad it is done too...holding HE's up under the bus while threading bolts is no help...should probably go to a doctor soon...for now icing it and beer will have to do... _________________ 1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex |
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atmellovw Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2006 Posts: 1652 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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A follow up observation: I noticed that my left heat exchanger was really smoking a lot after a drive and it felt much hotter than the right side. It would seem that upon reassembly that the small flap at the bottom of the fan shroud was stuck and not allowing air to blow through the exchanger. Spent some time unsticking it and "adjusting" it to make sure it would swing open. Seems to have solve the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated... _________________ 1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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atmellovw wrote: |
A follow up observation: I noticed that my left heat exchanger was really smoking a lot after a drive and it felt much hotter than the right side. It would seem that upon reassembly that the small flap at the bottom of the fan shroud was stuck and not allowing air to blow through the exchanger. Spent some time unsticking it and "adjusting" it to make sure it would swing open. Seems to have solve the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated... |
Sounds like you've got it under control, the flaps aren't really critical on a bus installation, especially if you don't have a BA-6, you could remove them and never notice they were gone. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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webwalker Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2006 Posts: 2803 Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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atmellovw wrote: |
Making progress an hour at a time. I have the fan shroud removed and looking forward to cleaning things up. The right heat exchanger was replaced at some point so it looks clean but the left despite its grubbiness is solid. Also, three of the four old copper exhaust seals were very stubborn and took a lot of work to get out!
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Previously you mentioned the exhaust cylinder nut removal with the PB blaster and some folks suggested PB + Heat. We kind of jumped forward to when you had the fan housing and exchangers out. What was your experience removing the exhaust nuts from the studs? Did they come loose in a well behaved way, or go to pieces? I'm looking at original steel nuts and having a sinking feeling that I'm going to be replacing 8 studs, if I'm lucky enough to get the assembly off in one piece without snapping a stud off.
M _________________ "Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .81 4th
Click to view image |
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atmellovw Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2006 Posts: 1652 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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I am remembering that three of them came off with no problems, the other five had the stud unscrew from the head. I replaced the five with news studs and nuts, on the other three I used new nuts (locking type made for exhaust applications). _________________ 1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex |
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webwalker Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2006 Posts: 2803 Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks. Did you just screw the new studs into the old threads, or did you re-tap the head for new threads? I'm looking at my exhaust studs and I think it is going to be a miracle if I get the exhaust off without snapping off a stud. They're in BAD shape.
M _________________ "Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .81 4th
Click to view image |
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brandt Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2004 Posts: 364 Location: S. Utah
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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I'm in the middle of an exhaust rehab, too. I have the same question about installing studs. In the removal of my exhaust a few weeks ago two studs came out with their nuts and one broke. At least one more is twisted and its threads may not work anymore. I should have been more patient with the PB Blaster and waited a day or two and done more tighten/loosen/heat. I've been hitting the broken stud every few days with PB until I can get to it and removing the old copper gaskets. I am fearful it will give me hell when I try to remove it. It's sticking out a bit not flush with the head so maybe.
In filing my f pipes, the part that mates to the head, I had some tough old sealant, hard stuff to file, I'm hoping the head side is easier to get flat and clean up. My engine is still in. I used a 14" file and then set them on the table of my table saw to get them perfect. I bet at least an hour on each one.
I've read on here to install exhaust studs just fingertight with antisieze while many other posts say to use loctite. It seems with the antisieze you would remove every stud the next time you took off your exhaust, i.e the nut would have more bite on the stud than the stud in the aluminum.
I've been belt sanding, filing and wire brushing for a few sessions now. Today's task was to deal with the super rusted studs I had to cut off the crossover pipe (1978). I managed to save the one that can't be switched over to a regular bolt and nut. Heat, PB, tapping all for not, I ended up drilling those two studs out and will either find some studs or bolts.
But a few of my flanges are pretty cupped. I'm starting to wonder how big a gap a gasket and hi temp RTV can fill? Some of my cupped flanges when dry-run-test-fit have 1-2mm gaps on the sides. Aside from files and belt sanders any ideas how to get flat again? I thought about bending the flanges in my vise but afraid to break things. It seems you'd need a forge to get it hot enough to make right.
So:
How do you install your exhaust studs? Antisieze, loctite?
And how cupped is too cupped on your flanges? |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50255
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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webwalker wrote: |
Thanks. Did you just screw the new studs into the old threads, or did you re-tap the head for new threads? I'm looking at my exhaust studs and I think it is going to be a miracle if I get the exhaust off without snapping off a stud. They're in BAD shape.
M |
If you can get the heat exchanger to come loose from the head the battle is half won. You will have to assess the condition of your own threads once you can get at them and decide at that point what needs to be done. On the last set of heads I did I drilled every thing out several sizes over and used case savers to step the holes back down to the original bolt size.
If you need to drill, get hold of a junk set of heater exchangers or F tube and use the flanges from them are drilling guides. |
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