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type 2 conversion check list
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trcooperone
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:48 pm    Post subject: type 2 conversion check list Reply with quote

I know that there is a lot of information on al the different CV conversions out there so this is to double check to make sure I know what I am looking for.

Right now I have 100% stock 1970 rear suspension re indexed one outer spline.

I want more travel so I can reindex a little more so I want to convert to type 2 CVs.

I would need

Type 2 stub shafts
Type 2 trans flanges
Type 2 axles and CVs

Please correct me if I am wrong, one thing I am not sure about is the stub shafts have to be a conversion shaft? Other than that everything is will fit/bolt/fit on splines with out any other modification

Like I said there is a lot of info on here and I have read all of it and starting to get confused.

Thanks Samba
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AEH
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You dont want type 2 stub axles or drive flanges or axles. You only want the type 2 CV's unless you are doing a 2x3 then you'd want the type 2 axles

Thing axles are the right length for stock trailing arms

the aftermarket stub axles are referred to as conversion shafts but they are really thing stub axles. They fit a type 1 trailing arm and type 2 CV's. The Drive flanges are also thing flanges but are referred to as conversion flanges on the parts websites. The also fit a type 1 transmission and type 2 CV's.

There was a set of thing axles, CV's and stub axles in the classifieds. They were a good deal and had type 4 CV's which are better than type 2. the only other thing you'll need is the drive flange seals.

If you get the EMPI thing axle assembly it will come with type 2 CV's instead of type 4 which is misleading.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


  • Thing stub axles
  • Thing CV flanges
  • 16 1/4" Type 1 axles
  • Type 2 or Type 4 CVs.
  • Boots for CVs
  • CV flange seals, circlips, and plug. Might as well change them while you have things taken apart.
  • Spacers, seals and bearings for the stub axle. Might as well change them while you have things taken apart.


Type 2 or Type 4 CVs are the same diameter and have the same spline count. Type 1 can flex 12 degrees, Type 2 17 degrees and Type 4 22 degrees. Type 2 will work for what you want.

I would add:
1966 and later Type 3 drum brakes while you have things taken apart.

as noted above, someone has Thing stub axles, drive axles and Type 4 CVs in the classifieds for $99. Thing drive axles may be longer than Type 1.

Quote:
Like I said there is a lot of info on here and I have read all of it and starting to get confused.


There is a tutorial coming, which will probably be posted the day you have yours done.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In addition to thing stubs, the early porsche 944 and 924 models had the same bearing housings as the beetle. They used 100 mm cv joints, which is the size you want to use. If your patient, you can come across them pretty cheap. I got a pair of early 944 stubs for 60 bucks. You can barely get a single new conversion stub for that!

The latter stubs found on the turbos with aluminum trailing arms will not work. They are made for larger cv joints and very different bearings.

One thing you might be interested in is the empi "thing" axles. They are not really thing axles because they use bus cv joints, not thing cv joints. They are both 100mm, and the axle length is right, so they will fit beautifully. Just don't expect to get as much angle as you could with a thing. In most cases it still offers more than enough angularity. This is the rout I took. Don't be afaid of the empi name. Empi's biggest market is cv joints, and they know how to do them right. You can get brand new cv to cv axle assembles on ebay for less that 60 bucks. Empi also makes a 100mm "bus" cv joint that is made for more angularity than the thing cv joints. the ChromeMoly cages are a good upgrade. They are also pretty cheap. If you went that rout you could buy the axles, take the cv joints off, sell them, and buy the off road bus cv joints and put them on the axles. Boom, done, good deal!

That being said, the "thing" axles is good enough as is. The off road type two "bus" cv's are really only necessary if you need super strong cvs with lots of angularity.
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trcooperone
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the response! I am building a class 11 look bug and I don't need crazy angularity. I am about 3.5" in the front and I want to match the rear to the front.

I have one inner notch so far and I need a little more height so I don't want to spend a ton of cash on some crazy trick cvs so if I can get the rear end higher without having cv angle issues that is what I am going for.

The reason I was interested in type 2 because that is all the extra angle I will need.

With that being said, what ever I find that is the cheapest is what I will go with. All this info consaldated is great! Thanks again and keep it coming!
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you do not notch the springplates
you will not increase the range of your travel

if you reindex the spring plates without notching them
your car will rest at a different point within the normal range of travel
the car wil not reach a point outside the normal range of travel
and you will not need to change from the standard Type 1 CVs
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trcooperone
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My plan is to notch the spring plates but not until I can swap out my rear components with components that can handle the angles
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, I hear ya. The Empi "thing" axles should do you well. The part number is 90-6905. These will do the trick nicely.

Don't pay more than 75 dollars for each axle assembly. You will see prices ranging from the mid 50's to over 100 dollars. They are all the same. Don't throw your money away on a higher markup and expect it to be better than a cheeper one.

This is how they come fresh out of the box. As you can see, everything is right there. Just paint the raw axles from boot to boot, slap a little extra cv grease in the drive flange and stub axle cv cups, bolt them on, and your good to go!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Keep an eye on the cv boots. They are typical cheep aftermarket quality. A lot of people have trouble with them ripping after a couple thousand miles. Run them until they are about to rip, then buy empi's off road type two boots. They are much better quality and will last a lot longer at higher angularities than the ones that are on the complete axle kits. They look like this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I assume you will be driving your class 11 look alike as though it were a real class 11? If your going to pound on them off road, any normal hardened steel cv cage can break apart. Empi sells ChroMoly cages that can be used to beef of the CV joints so they can take a serious beating. If you are just boming around on trails, they should be good as is, but if you're going to beat the crap out of it by repeatedly maxing them out, then you might want to consider adding these special cages into the mix.
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trcooperone
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the pictures and the info! Looks like I will be shopping around for the thing flanges and porsche stubs then on to the empi axles with CVs.

Thank you very much for the information, it is a lot more clear on what works and what I need to look for.
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