Sandwinder Build

joehadams · Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 2:26 pm Post subject:

ill throw a few more washers in there then, 3 was all i had in my pocket when i went out there.

and i have to take the carb and shroud and everything off still to put the cylinder tins on so when i do that ill put some plastic tubing over the throttle cable. i notice it was rubbing on the transmission and planed on fixing it before actually running it.

Sandwinder2 · Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:07 pm Post subject:

Not trying to jack your thread but we are having new Sandwinder decals made if you are interested. My Dad built the Sandwinder bodies. I am also restoring one.

joehadams · Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:56 am Post subject:

joehadams · Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:07 pm Post subject:

Alright so I got my exhaust in today:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Criticize me for going dual cannon but i think it looks much better on a buggy than a merged header. BUT i do have a merged set up i could use if i want to...

ANYWAY, I went to go test fit the exhaust to see if it would clear my bumper. Sure enough, it didnt Sad

this shot was taken with the cage lifted up with a floor jack trying to get as much space as possible for the exhaust tip.

the exhaust wasnt bolted on as tight as it could be, like i said it was just a test fit. but what bothers me most is that the exhaust and cage are both EMPI (criticize me some more). Now why wouldnt EMPI make both these parts work together? is there a trick to it Im missing? Here is how the bumper mounts to the frame:

also, the bumper isnt fixed in place yet i still have to get it powder coated but i want to make sure everything fits good before I finalize it

any suggestions on how to fix this?

thanks,
-Joe

jspbtown · Samba Member Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5155

Cut the cage right down the middle (between the two vertical supports) mount the upper mounts to the outside of the shock towers and then modify the lower mounts to meet the widened lower section.

I would think you would widen it about 2 inches (assuming each upper shock tower is 1" thick). Then weld in a piece of tube in the 2 center section.

or just get a nice merged exhaust.....

joehadams · Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:48 pm Post subject:

Sandwinder2 · Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:43 pm Post subject:

[quote="joehadams"]

joehadams · Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:17 am Post subject:

there is something in my motor, i dont know what it is but its making an awful metal to metal sound when we try and turn it over by hand. hopefully i can figure out what is down there and get it out today.

joehadams · Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:09 pm Post subject:

false alarm, it was just some water that turned to ice in the cylinder. we used a borescope to see what the heck was down there. then used a torch to melt it, and a shopvac to suck up the water. problem solved!

onto the next leg of our journey...

joehadams · Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:19 pm Post subject:

UPDATE 2/19. Making progress little by little. Its slowly coming together. Most recently, we got the seats mounted into the car, the bumper mounted so it doesnt hit the bumper. Then got it powder coated black. Yesterday we tried to fire it up because its been rather warm outside. Long story short, I forgot to change the starter bushing when i got the 12v starter (planned on using a 6v starter so i bought the converter bushing). Got that problem solved and put the original bushing back in. Then the starter died. Great. Took it out and opened it up and found out that the brushes werent touching the comm. because of all the dirt and oil in there. Problem solved. Put it back in the car today and fired it up. Ran like shit. Tuned the H30/31 back to stock settings and then found out there was a leak. Took the carb back off and found out the accelerator pump diaphragm/plunger thing was torn. Replaced that, reinstalled the carb and it was idling perfect. Next weekend we're going to change the spark plugs and set the timing. We hooked up the steering column today. And took a few laps up and down the street. DAMN IT WAS FUN!!! I cant wait to get this thing on the road :].
Oh yeah, I ordered seat belts and the roll bar is off at the sandblaster too

AND NOW SOME PICS!

Buggy Rear by J Adams Photography, on Flickr

Buggy Front by J Adams Photography, on Flickr

joehadams · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:15 am Post subject:

I know I havent updated this in a while but i have a question for anyone who's registered a buggy, in Connecticut in particular. We've been doing body work and are planing on getting the underside of the body coated with truck bedliner but we were wondering about a "firewall" for the buggy. The composite rules for CT state: "The installation of
liquid fuel tanks in trunks will require a steel firewall to be installed between the trunk and
passenger compartment."

and

"Covering from the top must extend from the
engine firewall to radiator housing or front grille housing. Hot components that could be contacted
by a pedestrian must still be protected."

Now the question is, we need a firewall between the tank and the "cabin" of the buggy. But do we also need a firewall between the engine and "cabin" of the car?

Tom_Kathleen · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 11:25 am Post subject:

joehadams - I have put 2 cars through the CT Composite inspection. Glad to see you are at least looking at what they want before you get there. From my experience, you need a steel (or Stainless Steel) "fire wall" between the the passenger compartment and gas tank. Put it on the verticle surface of the body from the pan to the lip that the tank sits on, outside of the passenger compartment. Much easier to put on before the body is mounted.

As far as the pedesdrian thing, just (temproarily) use chicken wire to cover the whole engine so the exhaust and fan belt can not be touched. Did you also make some mud flaps for the rear tires? Last time we went they wanted stick on side reflectors. Amber on front fenders, red on rear. One other sticking point is the AS1 marking on the windshield.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions. Tom
_________________
Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

joehadams · Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:43 am Post subject:

Tom_Kathleen · Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:59 am Post subject:

joehadams - The 1st car I put through the composite inspection was my old FiberFab (Manx clone) that didn't have sidepods. I was questioning the front tire mudflap thing also, and just to be on the safe side, I made some out of a piece of al sheet bent into a big "L" shape and attached it to the side of the body just behind the wheel. One other tip - bring your checked off set of rules with you and show it to the inspector, that way they will know that you are trying to really do what they want. Tom
_________________
Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

joehadams · Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:54 pm Post subject:

It appears that the accelerator pump diaphragm is leaking on my Solex H30/31. Does anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit for this carb? I cant seem to find one. Or does anyone know which carbs use the same accelerator pump diaphragm?

Q-Dog · Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 2:25 pm Post subject:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111198567D
This is a universal kit that fits several models so there are extra parts. Almost all the usual suspects sell this kit. Some of the hard parts don't quite work correctly(volume control screw) so I use the old ones, but I've had no problems with the gaskets and diaphrams.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

joehadams · Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject:

Awesome, Ill order one tonight. Thanks for the quick reply Q-Dog!

joehadams · Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:19 pm Post subject:

Alright well I havent had much time to tinker with this while working at and being a full time student so any little progress is good progress. We've started to repair the body but I'm getting sick of sanding so we redirected our attention back to the chassis. We have added a 1.5' body lift and external, torsion tube mounted battery box.

just need to do some final touches and get it welded up.

This was a weld-on battery box from JEGS but we modified it with exhaust clamps welded to it so that we could bolt it on and remove it if necessary.

I also fixed the carb leak with a new accelerator pump diaphragm that I had in a 30-pict 1 that i rebuilt but never used. Dont you love when things work out?

joehadams · Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:20 pm Post subject:

I really need some time to just work on this thing. A whole weekend would be nice but unfortunately work wont allow that. This past week we were able to finish welding up the sides of the body lift. now we just need to fabricate the pieces that go over the tunnel. i installed a new to me intake with the preheat risers intact (that i cleaned the carbon out of). Now im trying to get the engine to idle but it doesnt seem to want to, i got it today before giving up but it seems that the air bypass screw on the h30/31 is all the way in and thats where it will idle. i need to get some starting fluid or carb cleaner to see if it has an airleak anywhere. I just want this thing to be done already and not drag out for another year Rolling Eyes

joehadams · Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:41 am Post subject:

Just to try and keep this thread semi-updated

here's our body that we had repaired and painted Dupont Tequila Sunrise

Currently working on repairing the dashboard and the support frame for it. The PO had it made out of some mangled rebar Rolling Eyes

waiting for some warmer weather up here in CT to work on this thing


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