New Zealand T34 Ghia project

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:12 pm Post subject:

They are the smaller ones also used on the paper heater hoses.
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F.BOUTIER · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 3:44 pm Post subject:

Hello John ,

What's about the 28 mm inner diameter paper heater hoses ?

Franck.

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:19 pm Post subject:

Hi Franck, yes I bought some but they are still to arrive via snail mail.
I assume you were asking if I'd purchased some?
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F.BOUTIER · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:43 pm Post subject:

Yes that's what I wanted to ask you.

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:49 pm Post subject:

Next job is a custom tach, have most of the pieces I need I think except for a face. The 70's donor tach I have is 8K rpm which is better suited to the motor I'm building so that will require a face to suit.

Just keep chipping away at the interior, electrics are also on the to do list in the coming weeks, would be nice to completely finish this area.
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racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:00 pm Post subject:

Here's something for you guys to think about, Sunvisors!
We all have the same problem so a solution would help may people, my sunvisors are baggy like everyone else's and I've been thinking about ways to "fix" them.
My current thought is to make a simple wooden box to keep them flat and even then inject builders foam in to them though the hole for the metal arm or fill them with some kind of epoxy..........
This would kind of tie all of it together internally maybe making them useable again.
Problem with cutting them apart is heat seaming them back together again, don't think that will work.
Let me know any ideas you have????

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tanhis · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:19 am Post subject:

Mike Fisher · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:54 am Post subject:

racoguy · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 4:48 pm Post subject:

I'm skeptical as well hence this post to see if anyone has ideas but maybe not.
There are no pro's over here who repair this sort of stuff, I'm on my own by the looks of things. I can't / won't install them all baggy like that.
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jaransonT3 · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:28 pm Post subject:

sctbrd · Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:03 pm Post subject:

Lee Hedges is working on having repro glove boxes made. As of April they were running too thick.

racoguy · Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:18 am Post subject:

That's interesting and thanks for the pictures, if one could get all of the broken up foam out the expandable foam might work but I suspect not.
Pouring in gasoline to dissolve the foam would be another idea.
Certainly helps seeing what's on the inside with the wire frame etc, something to keep thinking about.
Keep me updated on how you end up getting on.

Edit: decided to cut my worst one open and see what you mean, the wire inside the visor is curved slightly no doubt to match the curve of the front window frame.
I'm thinking now to sandwich the metal frame between two sheets of closed cell foam then try to slip that back into the original visor............looks like I have something to do this weekend.......... Laughing

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bobnorman · Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:16 am Post subject:

racoguy · Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 3:14 pm Post subject:

One done, one to go.......

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t3kg · Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 3:44 pm Post subject:

Nice work! So how did you end up doing it?
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racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 12:47 am Post subject:

That's quite the story and a lot of trial and error, made the other one today and it looks 100% better. Super stoked with that one so I'm considering re doing the 1st one but I've run out of material for it.
Pretty sure I'll order another 1/2 meter and re do it, will be worth it.
Quick trial fit in the car, lots of little things to source and sort out before it all goes back in permanently.

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racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 10:39 pm Post subject:

Well I knew it wouldn't last, ordered some more material today to re do the 1st sunvisor again. With what I learnt from doing the 2nd one yesterday it just makes re doing it a no brainer really.
Since I only re use the metal frame tearing it apart again is the easy bit.

The new heater hoses also arrived during the week which meant I could finally finish those off as well, the sizing is pretty good with the outside diameter being a little smaller than original.
Another fail on my part was the metal retaining straps being that these hoses actually use the larger of the 2 sizes used on the T34, good thing I have some coming from overseas.
Starting to come together at last, detail pieces take forever.

So the last couple of weeks I've been working on a tach as a side project, since there's little to no information out there once again here's my take on it figuring it out as I went.
Started off with a Bieber 8k rpm tach my Dad gave to me recently, he'd kept it from his days of screwing around with cars. I figured it to be 70's vintage but when I took it apart it had Marz 66 on the inside.
Not knowing if it even worked I wired it up to the coil on our forklift which was the easiest thing to get to and seemed to work fine.
Great! now what..........can't install it as is, I want it to match the other gauges obviously soooooo..........
I also ended up with an early T3 clock from a local T3 guy to donate the dial plate and backing plate, ring which holds the lens and the chrome bezel.
First I cut the back off the clock housing leaving me with a ring which by sheer fluke the Bieber housing was a tight fit into so all I had to do was measure how deep the housing needed to be over all and cut the clock housing to length.

With the depth set I drilled new holes in the clock face, backer and mounted this to the tach movement, it was at this point I noticed a big problem with my plan.................the tach needle does not sit in the center of the face, rather off to one side so the center hole needs to be a lot bigger for the tach sweep. Never mind I'll worry about that detail later!
By now I have too much time invested to turn back.
Mount all of this back in the new housing and used the stepped trim ring from the T34 speaker grill as well as salvaged the brass plate and button from it.
Test fit everything together, looks ok so far.

Machined the clock face out by hand with a die grinder to be able to clip the brass plate in as well as cut a clearance for the needle to sweep around leaving a little material at the base between the stops. I had to re bend the needle at this point to raise where the bend was to clear everything.
Incredibly fiddly doing this by hand but what else can you do.......

So at this point I just needed a new lens which I cut from clear perspex and ground to shape, drilled a hole in the center to mount the brass button.
Still to make the tach face which will require some photoshop trickery before that can be printed and then strip everything to paint all the components for final assembly.............and hopefully it still works!

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jaransonT3 · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 4:07 am Post subject:

Tach is looking good John. I have an Illustrator file already created for a Type 3 tachometer face with the correct font. Let me know an email address and I will send it to you. It should give you a good starting point.
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racoguy · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 9:35 pm Post subject:

My material came through so I re did my first sun visor which now looks a lot better and once the new clips come in they can be installed for good hopefully.
Here's how I did mine, VERY fiddly and hugely time consuming but it's just like everything else on a T34..........time and money fixes everything.
The first one I did was the same idea but I managed to put it back in the original vinyl cover and re seamed it..........was ok but no where near good enough which led me to this:
Removed the metal frame again and binned everything else, used a piece of 5mm closed cell foam for the top and bottom roughly cut to shape which the metal frame will then get sandwiched between.
Since you would see the outline of the frame I needed something to fill the voids in the wire frame and after looking at various options the easiest way was to use a 3mm closed cell foam as a filler in those areas.
Cut those out and glued them to one side of the 5mm foam.

Once at this stage glue the other piece of 5mm foam on top which will encapsulate the wire frame.
Glue all the edges together and I then smoothed out the double edge of the foam on the linisher creating the shape I was after.
With the foam glued together you will also then have the correct curve these visors have so that they fit against the roof nicely.
All that's left to do now is to round off all of the edges a bit so that they don't look too square.

The material I used is off white crushed grain headliner vinyl which worked out great and the grain nicely matches.
Cut out a top and a bottom piece and start on one side by gluing it to the foam with contact glue.
here's the fiddly time consuming part, try to cut as accurately as possible so that once folded over and glued it sits half way on the edge.
You then have to do the same thing with the other piece of vinyl so that both meet nicely in the middle.
I went one step further and used super glue on the edge and held it together with my finger nails until dry.
The more time you spend getting it right the better it will look, I had to walk away several times to take a break from it. All together there would be at least 10-12 hours in these 2 visors!

Once complete I re installed the newly chromed brackets and then worked on the seam itself, looked pretty good actually but to hide the seam a little and also give that area more strength I used Plarepair powder on the seam which is then soaked with their activator effectively welding the 2 pieces of vinyl together.
So that's pretty much it, how to make a silk purse from a sours ear Laughing

Don't know if anyone still bothers to read it but there you go!
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Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 12:03 pm Post subject:


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