New Zealand T34 Ghia project

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 3:39 pm Post subject:

Been thinking about what to continue with and since the interior is on hold for now while I sort out what to do with the carpet I've carried on with mechanical stuff on the chassis to hopefully get that completed.
All the bigger stuff is done but there's tons of little things to sort through like external oil cooler which I did yesterday.
Bought a 96 plate oil cooler ages ago which I fitted a fan to yesterday, I also converted the cooler from 1/2 pipe threads to 1/2 BSP so that I could use banjo fittings which makes for a much neater and more compact unit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I had planned to use an external filter mount and then use a thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil cooler, instead of placing the thermo switch for the fan in line (which looks quite messy) I just drilled / threaded the end of the inlet banjo bolt on the cooler and installed it there.
I wanted a simple clean looking filter mount which I'm happy with but took ages to make but then good things take time!
Probably more so time consuming is to only try and use existing holes to mount things, easy just to drill a hole but I didn't want to do that here.
The location should work well for the oil lines coming from the engine as well as those going to the cooler but I won't know for sure till the engine is in.

To mount the cooler I used the upper stress bar between the shock towers and sat the cooler on top of it, at the moment I have the fan setup to pull air through the cooler which I could also add a scoop to from underneath to direct air to it.
Quite a simple solution in the end which just needed a single mount at the rear to hold it in place.
Certainly seems like there's a whole lot more room under there than on a Beetle but I'm sure the exhaust will still be tight.

Those parts mounted I just ran the oil lines back to the sandwich plate, once I blast the bumper irons I'll powdercoat the brackets I made as well.
Next i'll have to find a non intrusive place to run a couple of fuel lines which might be along the pan edge or through the tunnel........dunno.

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:57 pm Post subject:

Thinking about what to do next all week and since we have some powder coating to get done for work on Monday it was a great opportunity to get my engine tins and bumper brackets done at the same time.
By the time I'd gathered up all of the parts to be done black I ended up with quite a pile of parts to be sandblasted so I spent a big part of yesterday standing behind the blast cabinet hunched over blasting parts which my back is paying for today!
With a few mods I made the blast cabinet works awesome, mainly the fan on the back to suck the dust out is the biggest thing, when the sand has been recycled to many times even the fan can't cope with the dust so then its time to change the sand.

The dual port tinware I got for this motor was beaten to sh*t so there was quite a few hours of knocking those pieces back in to some semblance of straightness as well as welding up the plethora of cracks everywhere.
Made sure to test fit each part at which time I discovered that the motor would end up being to wide to fit the car and never having had a Type 3 I didn't know what was the normal thing to do to fit a dual port in an early body so rather than mess with the body itself I've modified the cylinder tins instead by chopping a section off them and re folding the edges.
In all I have about 20 parts blasted and ready for powder coat, still to decide what to do with the fan housing but that will also need blasting and maybe silver or clear coat?
Looks like all of the thermostat / flaps are missing which I'll need to find those as well so if anyone has a complete set please let me know.
I'll pull the motor apart now and swap out the cam so that I can finally dial that up and at least send out the engine internals for balancing.

W1K1 · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 6:10 pm Post subject:

Put the carbs and manifolds on too. You may have to do some bending to get clearance for them too
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:54 pm Post subject:

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 9:47 pm Post subject:

Thanks fellas, running custom FI set up which if i'm clever enough will be compact enough to stay on the engine when being installed.
All a bit of a learning curve this Type 3 stuff......... Laughing

Clatter · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:05 am Post subject:

Can't remember.. Is this engine to be stroked?
Now is the time to stretch the tins for a wider motor if that's in the cards.

Always a conundrum with powder-coat.
Unless you are going to use that bake-on powder filler and block it flat,
That tin is going to have to be super super straight to look good without any filler.
(At least if it's to be shiny).
Probably the main reason you see so many with flat or wrinkle vein..

More and more I'm seeing people use powder as a primer,
And then scuff/shoot paint over the top.
Because paint seems to have more scratch resistance.
As my shiny powder coated motor and tins inevitably come in and out of the car a few times,
(for modifications to make them faster only, of course. Laughing

)
They do seem to get scuffed/scratched/chipped and otherwise banged around.
Powder is good for chip resistance there.

Cleaning the soft powder coat finish leaves it scratched up, too.
Because all cars kick up a cloud of dust as they go down the road,
And our air-coolers sit in this cloud of dust, suck it into the compartment, and blow it all over everything.
This makes for cleaning, and as follows wiping, which inevitably seems to scratch up the tins if they are shiny black.
Again, making a good case for panting over powder; the best of both worlds. Black paint for scratch resistance,
Black powder for chip resistance,

Not to be the Turd In the Punch Bowl, but food for thought.
Always happy to make work for another! Very Happy

Absolutely love your oil filter bracket BTW, - a thing of beauty for sure!
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

racoguy · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:17 pm Post subject:

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 2:52 pm Post subject:

Armed with the seal profiles Scott posted up some weeks back I was able to source a seal profile for the upper door on these early pre plastic cap cars, the profile is just spot on and works really well with a couple of adjustments which I'll share.
Below is a picture of what the cross section is, pretty darn close to what Scott posted up, the source is the same as the P profile for the doors.
http://rubberstock.com/sponge-rubber-special-profile-10-5-23-mm.html
Buy 1 metre which will be more than enough for both doors.

The seal would be ok to install as is but if you do the top part of the seal will poke out past the edge of the body so in reality its 3-4mm too high so on mine I trimmed 4mm off the base of the seal with a sharp razor blade making the fit near prefect.
Installing it is another matter, due to the confines of the door corner I found it necessary to remove the check strap pin to allow the door to open all the way nearly at right angles.
Hardly any glue is needed as it is such a tight fit in the groove of the door, I used some super glue at each end to hold it in place, BOOM another NLA seal found and installed! Stoked. Laughing

Seal installed I made the rest of it using a T14 door post seal and simply glued down, one T14 door post seal is enough to do both upper seals and the short pieces of seal above the door hinge.
Again if you have the plastic caps on the later car this doesn't apply and I do have a pair but since my doors had the groove I thought i'd try and find a suitable seal for it.

Yesterday I also did a little more interior work again now that I have carpet templates which Mr Boutier kindly sent from France (IF ANYONE WANTS THESE WHEN I'M FINISHED WITH THEM LET ME KNOW)
Comparing them to what I had from WCC it became apparent that 90% of their kit is wrong.
Lucky for me I have just enough carpet to make the missing pieces as well as re make all the incorrect pieces, there is 1 or 2 pieces which will differ from Franck's templates but that's just due to the material I have left to work with and also his car has the later heater controls which I'll also change on the pattern.
Some of the sections in the kit were large enough to cut some of the smaller pieces from which helped as without those I'd be in doo dah!
I still have a few sections to make and then take them in to have the binding sewn on, unfortunately all I have left from the original carpet is the tunnel piece so don't have all of the factory plastic pieces to be sewn back on to the new carpet but such is life.
Looking at them none of them are all that nice anyway so not sure if I'll even use any of them.
In this next picture you can see Franck's template overlayed on the WCC carpet under it.............not even close Shocked

Salty · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:17 am Post subject:

Hey John. Staf here from Vask. Are you going golf 2.0 injection still? I installed megasquirt on mine and runs beautifully - very easy to autotunes also.. Perhaps worth considering for the ECU

racoguy · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 2:11 am Post subject:

ravivos · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 3:13 am Post subject:

Yes!! i would like to have the templates, as mine are incomplete.
i am currently restoring my car and need exactly these.

will PM you with my details.

Thanks!

Raviv.

F.BOUTIER · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:51 am Post subject:

Hi John !

I'm very happy to see that the templates are helping you on your work !

To Raviv : I can help in providing an other paper template copy , please let me know . ( MP )

Franck.

racoguy · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:25 pm Post subject:

Salty · Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:17 am Post subject:

Sounds great! I'm also going boost. Installing a td04 next month / I will have it boosting through a type 3 setup which will be fine for a 1835, but guessing you'll need some more flow Wink

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:41 pm Post subject:

Felt a little under the weather yesterday so not much got done, the combination of a blocked up head and hunching over gluing carpet didn't really do wonders for making me feel any better but we are a little further ahead again.
My local trimmer bound all of the carpet sections I made last week so I only have the tunnel, pedals area piece and rear wheel arches to make which I'll hopefully be able to cut today.
Tried to save the original rubber pieces from the old carpet but they are too far gone and brittle to be of any use unfortunately.
I'll look in to some sort of underlay for the main carpet as I'm not really that fond of dynamat for floors.
Years ago I used a foam type of underlay which is two layers of foam with bitumen between them, good against sound and stops carpet sliding around.

Still looking for a P profile welt for the door panels, any ideas?

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject:

racoguy · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:34 pm Post subject:

Thanks Bob, starting to get there isn't it. Cool

vlad01 · Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 12:21 am Post subject:

that carpet is porn worthy.

looks shit hot!
_________________
The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g

71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old

Bobnotch · Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:01 am Post subject:

ibjack · Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:00 am Post subject:


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

New Zealand T34 Ghia project
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 ... 42, 43, 44 ... 54, 55, 56 Next Jump to:

	Forum Index -> Type 3	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 ... 42, 43, 44 ... 54, 55, 56 Next Jump to:
Page 43 of 56