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New Zealand T34 Ghia project
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F.BOUTIER
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job John !!! Cool Very Happy
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F.BOUTIER
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John ,

when you talk about P profile welt , is it something like this ?

http://sellerie-guibert.com/115-jonc--passepoil---galon-passepoil.html

Franck.
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is the commonly available welting but T34's use a different profile on the door cards which looks like a letter P end on.
Rather than the attachment welt strip being in the center of the O section it is off to one side.
Suppose you could use the normal one which is commonly used on seats but it isn't quite right.
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
racoguy wrote:

Still looking for a P profile welt for the door panels, any ideas?


Sorry, I can't help you on that, as I'm still looking for that piece myself. Unfortunately, there's not too many people this far along with their T-34 restoration to let us know where these "odd ball" seals can be found. I even asked over on both T-34 world, and the T-34 registry about 2 years ago, and still haven't heard anything. Rolling Eyes

Yes, the carpet is really coming together on your car. In the end, it'll probably look and fit better than any "kit" out there. Cool Do you still have the rubber floor mats?


I still have the rubber floor sections but they are not really too flash anymore so probably won't use them.
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racoguy wrote:
F...My local trimmer bound all of the carpet sections I made last week so I only have the tunnel, pedals area piece and rear wheel arches to make which I'll hopefully be able to cut today...
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Your carpets look good, as The Fop says. I'm in East Auckland and will need a trimmer to do the binding on the carpets I intend to cut and fit. Who did yours for you, if you don't mind sharing the info?
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They were done by Ian Goodwin car upholstery which is just down the road from me, last few pieces being bound this week.
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racoguy wrote:
They were done by Ian Goodwin car upholstery which is just down the road from me, last few pieces being bound this week.


Thanks for that. I've read the last half of your thread now. You give me hope, but at the same time a good deal of despair. How am I ever going to achieve your level of quality in my restoration?
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kiwighia68 wrote:
racoguy wrote:
They were done by Ian Goodwin car upholstery which is just down the road from me, last few pieces being bound this week.


Thanks for that. I've read the last half of your thread now. You give me hope, but at the same time a good deal of despair. How am I ever going to achieve your level of quality in my restoration?


All the good stuff is at the beginning Laughing
Just keep at it, never give up and don't accept second best which is why I've had to have a go at everything.
Attention to detail is one of the few things I'm really good at which has helped a lot.
Post some more pictures of your progress, following both yours and Fop's
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I'll look in to some sort of underlay for the main carpet as I'm not really that fond of dynamat for floors.


I find the ez cool stuff from lobucrod works very well, or your trimmer shop should have the underlay felt available like this http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/Auto-Underlay--40oz--36-_p_4394.html
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked up the last few pieces of carpet from the trimmer completing all of the binding, didn't manage to get out during the week to source any underlay so yet again can't fully complete the carpeting.
Getting a little tired of working on the same thing over and over but it has to be done how I want it so it takes as long as it takes.
When I replaced the floors I added a lower seatbelt mount as I wanted modern retractable seatbelts from the start so now that it's all together I find out I screwed up the placement of the mount D'OH!
The mount is too far back on the pan leaving too little room to mount the roller which really pissed me off, not cutting it off now so figure out something else.
In the end I made a nice bracket which turns the roller 90 deg mounting it against the back kick plate instead of in line with the heater channel.
Looking at it now it's way better and works way better as well compared to how I had first intended it.
The upper mount is an M24 thread so had to make an adaptor to take that down to a modern M11 bolt, seatbelts done!
Next on the list will be to make new interior quarter and door top pads so that should be quite interesting I think, got a plan in my head so we'll see how that works out.
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if you can get retractable with a cover on the mechanism?

I got belts like that one mine but looks a little naked as you can see the working of the retracter.
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reay
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry about skipping back this far, but I'm right at the point on installing my headliner (and dreading it!) and have a question..
Where do you spray the fast-tack and when. I assume you use as little as possible in the "field" and only at the edges. Also, did you use the trim that goes around the side window to pull it tight?

PS-Thanks sooo much for documenting everything!
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Last edited by reay on Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reay wrote:
I'm sorry about skipping back this far, but I'm right at the point on installing my headliner (and dreading it!) and have a question..
Where do you spray the fast-tack and when. I assume you use as little as possible in the "field" and only at the edges. Also, did you use the trim that goes around the side window to pull it tight?

PS-Thanks sooo much for documenting everything!



You must be on a different page as those images are of the door scrapers etc but in any case I brushed all of the glue instead of spraying, don't use glue in a spray can........its useless.
The side moldings are only used to hold the headliner against the roof, the headliner should be "tight" before any trim is installed, around the front / rear windows bulldog clips are the best thing to hold on to the headliner once glued.
I glued small sections at a time, continuously pulling the headliner to get the wrinkles out.
Do the main headliner first, then trim around the pillars are pull those tight.
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reay
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did grab the wrong quote Rolling Eyes (a bit a computer spaz)

But, you answer my question! My wife a me started at it tonight. I am worried that pilars are going to come out clean. Did you use any heat? And is brushing the glue on OK to do? (I have both).
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't use any heat, just got the headliner tight and then did the front pillars first followed by the rears. Trim off excess material a little then do a test pulling it in a way where there's no creases then adjust as needed.
Must say too, cover pillars first then headliner! Where the headliner goes over the pillar try to double the headliner over creating a nice finishing edge.

Once you finish around the pillars this is where it is handy to install the side roof moldings to keep things in place.
Brushing the glue is slow but 100% gets the glue where you want it and can do a few inches at a time if needed.
You have a sunroof? if you do then trace around the opening with a pencil because when you cut the hole the headliner will become slack again and you can use the pencil line to judge where you need to pull the material to in order to fold the material over the opening.
In all I really enjoyed doing mine and if I were to do it again I'm sure I could do a better job.[/list][/u]
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been thinking about the next step for a while now and keep changing my mind about how to do it as well as collecting materials for the job.
I found grained dashboard vinyl quite some time ago but in order to do this properly like the factory did it I would need a vacuum table to be able to vacuum form the vinyl over the parts.

Vacuum table is the easy part which I started last weekend, MDF being cheap and easy to cut became the material of choice.
Made a table big enough to also make and cover a dash when I get that far, just have vacuum attachments to install and seal the thing up.
Will then have to make a frame to hold the vinyl sheet and some sort of heating system to heat / melt the vinyl.
Not much information out there (probably no one dumb enough to have a go) on what glue to use, seems to be heat activated which so far I have not found here.

Didn't really feel like more wood work this morning so I moved on with getting more parts ready instead, I did make one of the metal rear 1/4 pad backers some time ago and since all 4 are rusted it seemed like a good thing to carry on with.
Making the other rear one was pretty simple and easy but the door ones are a little more complicated if you want them to look right.
To separate them from the covering was harder than I thought, a combination of rust and old garbage left behind...........why is everything on this car trash........?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The front ones are also a different shape so none of my templates were any good, after what seemed like an age to finally get the correct curve I could work on the ends and try it on the door.
More trial and error later I had something which actually fits pretty well, drilled the holes for the trim also at that stage.
The original ones had 3 tabs which attach to the door under the door card which were easy to make and weld on, was pretty late in the day by now and time to call it quits while still ahead.
Have material cut for the other side which will be a lot quicker now that I know what to do!
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3 done, 1 to go.
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your fab skills continue to impress and am totally looking forward to seeing your vacuum-form those pieces to life.
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racoguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks man, the running joke around here is "how hard could it be, all you have to do is sucky some stuff over it" Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

racoguy wrote:
Been thinking about the next step for a while now and keep changing my mind about how to do it as well as collecting materials for the job.
I found grained dashboard vinyl quite some time ago but in order to do this properly like the factory did it I would need a vacuum table to be able to vacuum form the vinyl over the parts.

Vacuum table is the easy part which I started last weekend, MDF being cheap and easy to cut became the material of choice.
Made a table big enough to also make and cover a dash when I get that far, just have vacuum attachments to install and seal the thing up.
Will then have to make a frame to hold the vinyl sheet and some sort of heating system to heat / melt the vinyl.
Not much information out there (probably no one dumb enough to have a go) on what glue to use, seems to be heat activated which so far I have not found here.

Didn't really feel like more wood work this morning so I moved on with getting more parts ready instead, I did make one of the metal rear 1/4 pad backers some time ago and since all 4 are rusted it seemed like a good thing to carry on with.
Making the other rear one was pretty simple and easy but the door ones are a little more complicated if you want them to look right.
To separate them from the covering was harder than I thought, a combination of rust and old garbage left behind...........why is everything on this car trash........?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The front ones are also a different shape so none of my templates were any good, after what seemed like an age to finally get the correct curve I could work on the ends and try it on the door.
More trial and error later I had something which actually fits pretty well, drilled the holes for the trim also at that stage.
The original ones had 3 tabs which attach to the door under the door card which were easy to make and weld on, was pretty late in the day by now and time to call it quits while still ahead.
Have material cut for the other side which will be a lot quicker now that I know what to do!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

3 done, 1 to go.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yup, I ran into the same issue with my own car. I ended up remaking those those metal parts out of aluminum, as I didn't want those parts to rust again. For me, doing it in aluminum was easier to work with, plus I already had some in stock. Wink
Fortunately, I was able to re-use the vinyl though, as most of the metal was what was gone. Shocked

John, those look fantastic, and nice fab work. Cool
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t3kg
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great. I've never seen a set of these that wasn't completely rusted out.
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