Dieter: My 1970 RHD Beetle

[Zacharysayre]

Well I decided to break out my trusty tube bender and modify the pre bent fuel line. I used the short end for the fuel pump side. I re-adjusted it by giving it a little sharper bend to bring it closer to the fan shroud. Then I readjusted the frame side by straightening it out and moving the bends to a better fitting place. So after about 10 minutes of playing with it I got a great fitting hard fuel line.

A much better fit than before. Also add the firewall safety pass through.

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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

I have two comments/suggestions....
1) I can't really tell from your pics but make sure the fuel line is not touching the intake manifold. You don't want the friction or the heat. If you have a hole on the fan shroud for the spark plug wire holder, use a three position one and clip the fuel line into it. If you bend the tube just right it will only touch at the clip and the bulkhead.

2) I'm not certain exactly how much the stock fuel line extended forward of the firewall tin, but your tube seems excessive. You might consider trimming it shorter.
My tube ends right about where that first bend is forward of the firewall tin (few inches). If you keep it that long, the end of the tube will be bouncing around from engine/vehicle vibrations. It will need to support the weight of the fuel hose (and the fuel in it) running between the fuel line poking out of the frame and the end of this line. If you plan to mount a fuel filter in this segment it will need to support it as well. Unless you plan to come up with some type of mount to support the line near its end you run the risk of the vibrations causing the hose to come loose while driving.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

Fuel filter is under the tank. No where near the engine bay. I thought the tube was a bit long. Will trim it once I get the engine installed. That way I have a better idea where to trim it. Then will secure it. I am running the spark plug wire holders and it will be attached there in the lower position. It does clear the intake and I have a hook style clip that will go on the end fan shroud screw.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Chochobeef]

Looks like you solved your issue. Here is what I did in case anyone wants to see:

I went around the manifold and covered the metal line in rubber to keep from vapor locking. Has worked really well.

[Zacharysayre]

I got the deck lid painted this morning and installed the new to me license plate light. It looks really good.

Before:

After:

Just waiting for the throttle cable and a missing piece of tin. Then off to get emissions and tags.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Been dealing with a new issue. When I put the new battery in, the headlights high beam indicator and the headlights themselves came on automatically. I didn't turn them on or mess with their wiring.

The fire damaged the wiring harness in the rear. So the headlight wiring wasn't damaged.

What should I look for to fix this?
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Still haven't figured out the lights. So I just pulled the hot wire for now.

I tried to start the car a couple of days ago and nothing. It cranks and turns over great but will not run.

Messed with it again yesterday and still nothing. I did the following:

1. checked spark plugs
2. checked spark plug wires in correct firing sequence
3. checked for fuel
4. checked points and rotor

Today I got some time to fiddle with it. Figured I would tear out the distributor and make sure that I had installed it correctly. But before I did that. I tried to start it one more time.

Got it to start but will not stay running with out a full throttle. Except the engine sounds like it is just idling.

I know that it is a rebuilt carburetor and that the timing needs to be set. But what is causing it to not idle?

If anyone is around the old town Scottsdale area and would be willing to help out, I would really appreciate it.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Abscate]

[Zacharysayre]

Been reading a lot of posts on here and else where on the net. My carb is a 30 pict-3. I read that the 2 jets in the passenger side of the carb were the ones to adjust the idle. Every post stated to adjust the front one. I did and nothing. Tonight I decided to reset every thing again and adjust the rear one.

That did it. I have an idling engine. Tomorrow I'll work on get the timing set. Can't wait to try out my new tool -- Dwell/tach meter.

Then will work on the headlights. progress however slow.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

I read tonight that the headlight relay needs to have power to terminal #30. I had it connected to a constant power circuit. I took off the power wire and created a jumper wire from terminal #56. Which is power from the headlight switch. That fixed the problem with the headlights constantly on no matter where the headlight switch was positioned. Also tested the high/low beam switch. That too works now. Yeah....

Emission and tags are left to do.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

I am doing my tune-up on the stock 1600. these are my compression test readings...

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 2

Cylinder3

Cylinder 4

I read somewhere that if there is one 20psi off from the others, its time for a rebuild. These reading are from a rebuild with 309 miles on it.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

The common acceptable measure I have heard/read is 10% difference high to low. All of your readings seem to be within around 10% so I don't see any issue.

Also, with only 300 miles on the motor you probably haven't fully sealed the piston rings to the cylinder. Yes, they may be broken in, but that is not the same as giving it enough time to get max sealing and pressure. I'd imagine after 700-1000miles you may get readings that are even closer together.
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AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

Thanks for that information. Proceeding with the rest of the tune-up.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

I installed the new narrowed adjustable beam with stock spindles. The adjusters are as loose as they can be. I even took the shocks back off. But this is as low as it will go.

There is no play for the front end to go down. I have checked everything and nothing is getting hung up or stopping the front end from going lower.

Not sure what to check or should I add drop spindles to bring the front down some more.

Wanting my ride height to be like Glenn's

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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

Not clear which type of front beam adjusters you are running? Can you post pics?

All adjusters work on the principle that the front leaf springs are held in place by the two center discs (top and bottom) that the springs pass thru. Normally these are stationary (peened in place on the stock beams). But installing the adjusters make these discs adjustable allowing the discs to be rotated inside the beam. In the below pic of an Avis style adjuster you can see the screw that passes thru the beam and into the disc. You can also clearly see the slot which dictates the range of motion the center discs move thru.

Depending on how the adjusters are welded onto the beam, they could:

Allow the front end to only be lowered from stock height.

Allow the front end to only be raised from stock height.

Allow the front end to center at the stock height and be raised or lowered.

For the adjusters to work, the center discs need to be free to rotate. Depending on the style of adjuster, more than one screw on each adjuster may need to be loosened.

The adjuster pictured above often needs the top bolt's lock nut be loosened and the top bolt itself loosened a little to allow the internal disc to rotate freely. Just loosening the bottom bolt/nut will not allow the internal disc to rotate freely.

Hope this helps!
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AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

Here's what my beam looks like installed and on the ground.

This is what it looks like when it is raised off the ground and I pressed down on the tires to get it to move the suspension as far as it would go.

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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

I drove my 1970 today. It's been a 1 year and 4 months since the front beam broke. Just took it around the block to bounce the front end and check the alignment.

Need to work on the alignment, had very little steering to the right. It also floated all over the road. Not sure if the steering box needs adjustment or not.

But it was fun driving it again.

Still need to get the nose down some more.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

I can’t tell from your pics, but are the studs with the lock nuts moving at all? Remove the lock nuts and the outer plate and show us where the studs rest both when the car is compressing the suspension and when the wheels are off the ground.

Is it possible the teeth on the plates are worn like the below pic?

Lastly, the adjusters may not be the only thing limiting the range of motion for the front wheels. The spindles connect the top and bottom torsion arms together by the top and bottom ball joint. The ball joints have a limited range of motion. It may be possible you have reached the limit for the ball joints. This is why when you use torsion adjusters in the front you sometimes need to install lowered ball joints that have a larger range of motion. This is a pic of a stock ball joint that has been pounded by being lowered beyond the limits that the ball joint can move. Instead of reaching the limit imposed by the adjusters the ball joint was the limiting factor.

_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

The whole front end is brand new. everything. So the adjusters teeth are good. I also installed lower ball joints.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

here's picture of the beam with the adjuster clamp and bolts removed.

New problem. I am unable to move the arms now. So they are stuck in the lowered position.

I even tried using a sledge hammer to move the arms and nothing.

Everything is lubed up.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real