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Modern fuse panel?
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joel.truher
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Modern fuse panel? Reply with quote

Has anyone rewired their bug with a modern load panel or ganged fuse block? (another one)

I'm installing a dashboard gauge, and only just now discovered that bug wiring isn't home-run to any sort of load panel, it's just point-to-point. No wonder I was confused!

Anyway, if anyone has any experience with home-run wiring to an ATC load panel, or something similar, I'd love to hear about it.
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand what you mean by the wiring not running to a load panel...Most everything is fused on a VW at the factory panel right next to the speedometer - with some things opererated remotely by switches/relays/in line fuses.

I've used several Blue Sea panels with great results:

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JonF
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mod to the stock fuse panel to use ATO fuses.

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torsionbar
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

meh, seems like a lot of work for not much tangible gain. porsche used these old bullet fuses all the way through 1989! 1990 was the first 911 that had modern ato style fuses.
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[air cooled vw's] are no longer suitable for the general public. The owner has to be be able to maintain the car. And that is after fixing all the deferred maintenance items and ill-conceived modifications. If you can't do those things you are pretty much screwed.
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I left mine stock. Didn't see the point in upgrading as the old fuses never gave me any problems.
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
I left mine stock. Didn't see the point in upgrading as the old fuses never gave me any problems.


So long as you don't expand much, the stock panel should be all you'll ever need.
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bartman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are y'all kidding? That thing is great!
I have trouble with high resistance with my fuses, especially the headlights.
I clean and sand, sand and clean, and still have trouble with them.
I'd like to see a drop-in replacement that uses glass Buss fuses but this is pretty good, too.
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran an Alpine head unit, active crossover, 2 Linear Power amps, pair of 10" subs, 5 1/4" front speakers and additional tweeters in the rear ... all on the stock wiring and fuse panel and running the original generator. (Yup, way back in the 80s) No issues for several years. 132dB measured at the driver seat with no distortion.

I picked up power for the amps directly from the battery (separate fuses), with remote turn on from the head unit, but everything else used the car wiring and picked up power from the fuse block. The head unit was separately fused (2 power inputs) and included a switch under the dash to bypass ignition switch power so I could run the stereo without the key on, or with the key.

There are plenty of ways to add circuits without rewiring your car.
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Zacharysayre
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm running this set-up since I am adding all sorts of power accessories.

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An Integrated Modular Wiring System designed specifically with custom VW's in mind. 18 circuit connections fed by 16 fuses. Panel base is 5-1/2" x 3". "Cage Clamp" wire connection. High-heat wire is GM color coded and marked every 3 inches. Horn relay. Turn signal and hazard flasher circuits. Engine compartment wiring (oil pressure, starter, neutral safety switch, brake switch, ignition switch, dist. coil, main power, alternator/regulator). Wiring for ignition switch, coil, fuel pump, headlights, running lights, brake lights, directionals and license plate, dimmer switch, gauge cluster, horn, turn/hazard, radio, heater, A/C, and wipers, 3 spare battery circuits and 3 spare accessory circuits. Fuses, flasher and relays included. Detailed installation instructions. NOT included are the headlight, dimmer or ignition switches so that you may retain your original VW switches if so desired. We strongly suggest adding our replacement in dash VW Ignition Switch, below, to take maximum advantage of the accessory features of this wiring kit. Alternatives for other switch conversions can be found on this page and throughout our catalog. Call with specific questions. (Made for Watson's StreetWorks by American AutoWire)

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw.beetle.wiring.html
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JonF
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

before you buy into that it is designed specifically with custom vw's in mind bit you might do a search the samba. i remember someone posting something not to long ago that only part of it is designed specifically with the vw in mind is they included enough wires for the engine being in the back of the car and had probs trying to find out how to wire up the dash switches because the instructions was so lacking on how to do it.
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
I ran an Alpine head unit, active crossover, 2 Linear Power amps, pair of 10" subs, 5 1/4" front speakers and additional tweeters in the rear ... all on the stock wiring and fuse panel and running the original generator. (Yup, way back in the 80s) No issues for several years. 132dB measured at the driver seat with no distortion.

I picked up power for the amps directly from the battery (separate fuses), with remote turn on from the head unit, but everything else...


Sounds pretty straight-forward and not taxing on the electrical panel at all...The only additional loads on the stock electrical panel were the head-unit (which it had in a form stock) and the active crossover? When you're making small changes to the system, it's fine.

The extra fuse panels are nice because they offer dedicated circuits, rather than scabbing onto the same fuse that powers the dash fan, horn, brake lights, head unit, speedometer, and 12VDC outlet

My latest car has constant power, switched power, and retained accessory power, 12 relays, ~30 fuses, etc...no amps or speakers added yet Mad Though, last night I finished the driver's seat mounts for the 8-way power buckets with butt/lower back heaters (hi/low) that are switched by the coil terminal 15 wire from the ignition switch. The wire doesn't lead to the ignition coil anymore, but a 75A Bosch relay (powered off 60A fuse at the battery). The wire effectively turns on/off the 12-space electrical panel with the key. I've got the seat fuses setup dedicated passenger heat, dedicated passenger power, dedicated driver's heat, and driver's power is shared with relay power to operate a Type IV blower-fan under the backseat that boosts flow through the heaterchannel - via a switch above the ashtray with an indicator light in the speedometer.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

$350 seems like alot but I guess if you would pay $35 for a magnetic cup holder then.........

Also I wonder about $50 for some wire to splice in if it is a bus.
Why not just run longer wires the whole way?
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The Jewish Guy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least he did something different.. Thumbs up !!
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