Hotrod20 Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2010 Posts: 7 Location: Motorcity
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Steve, I have a 74 Super Beetle also with auto stick. I shared a similar problem because my car wasn't driven often enough and the clutch disc was seized to the torque convertor. It took my VW guy to drop the trans and repair it. Also make sure the vacuum solenoid is working and you have no vacuum leaks to the trans. You should be able to hear a funny vacuum buzz when you try to move the shifter into any gear after the car has been shut off. In addition, make sure the shifter contact points are clean under the shifter handle and there are no broken wires from the shifter to the electro vacc solenoid. This is the part that should buzz and it will be audible.This part is on the drivers side firewall of the engine compartment on my 74. It may be the same for your 72. Hope this helps.
Hot Rod 20 |
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sb001 Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 10406 Location: NW Arkansas
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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Autosticks can be frustrating but they are not "junk." Please don't believe everything you read about them. The misinformation and vitriol spread about on the internet and even on this forum regarding autosticks makes my head hurt. How many actual autostick owners does it take to undo the damage others with no clue have done to its name? Its not junk. Its just as reliable as a manual. JUST AS RELIABLE, assuming it is taken care of as such.
Now, with that out of the way, to the O.P. here is a link to a pdf file for autostick troubleshooting, service and repair:
http://www.type-14.com/Fiche/H%20-%20Transmission%...0Shift.pdf
In addition to the suggestions from hotrod, you need to make sure your vacuum hoses are connected the proper way, it would help VERY MUCH if you could post a few pictures of your engine bay so we can look and see if you have any hoses installed wrong.
In addition, there is a clutch servo (basically a can with a rubber diaphragm inside) under the car mounted by the transmission, with a clutch "arm" coming out of it. When vacuum is introduced through the control valve mounted in your engine bay to this clutch servo, it operates the internal clutch inside your transmission housing to allow engagement and disengagement of gears which is why vacuum operation is so critical to the autostick. (The link I posted above covers info about this.) The clutch arm has an adjuster sleeve on it. Where the arm protrudes from the servo can, there should be 4 mm gap between the can and the adjuster sleeve on the arm. This is often overlooked but can have a dramatic effect on gear shifting if not properly adjusted.
As far as your control valve in your engine bay, I posted the following picture in another autostick thread a couple days ago, that shows where all the different vacuum hoses are supposed to connect and lead to (all credit goes to 68autobug--Lee in Australia-- for the following photo off vwar.org):
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I obtained this photo off http://www.vwar.org/ -- this is a forum exclusively for the VW autostick, you may go there and post your problems as well, I am sure there are folks there who can help.
Again please try to post pictures of your engine bay, it will help immensely in trying to diagnose your problem. Thanks _________________ I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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