Yandina Manual switch question...

[purplepeopleeater]

Ok, question for ya..I wired my yandina like this..




Switch question..

Towards the red lead(off?

In the middle (auto?)

Towards the black lead (combind)

What do each positions do and what are the benifits, I know I had this dialed in about a year ago and finally got the parts last week and installed it today....I tried to search.
_________________
-Mike
67 Split Bus
86 westy- H4 powered
Subaru install
My Hightop install thread

[thatvwbusguy]

Hi Mike,

Yandina is kinda vague on the remote switch installation. They recommend a SPDT (single pole dual throw) switch with a center off position (on-off-on), but then they say that the remote wire is "purely voltage sensing" and can be controlled by a simple on/off (single pole single throw) switch.

I assume that this means that if you only want to be able to force combine the unit, a normal "on/off" toggle wired to 12v+ is all you need to force combine. Likewise if you only want to be able to force the Yandina to shut down, a simple "on/off" toggle wired to ground would be all that is needed. This is one of those times when having badly written instructions is probably worse than no instructions at all...

Check to see if there is 12V+ present on the green wire when the batteries are combined (my guess is no). If there is no voltage present on the green wire when combined, the Yandina will "force combine" when it is switched toward the red lead as shown in your diagram and switching it toward the black lead should force the unit to turn off completely. Center position will be auto. Since the switch is only carring a tiny amount of current, 16GA wire should be sufficient.

Also be sure to check that your toggle is definitely a "on-off-on" SPDT switch. There are several variations of the SPDT switch, but the "on-off-on" design is the most common. The outputs should be labeled on the switch itself.

Be sure to post back with your findings for future reference to alleviate the mystery of the Yandina instructions.

http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C100Data.pdf
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[GWTWTLW]

I believe that's the case. If you want to force combine, connect the green wire to the 12v pos and if you want to force isolate, ground it. I have my yandina mounted next to my blue sea fuse box and connected a flat lug to the green wire. That way I can easily connect it to either the + or - On the panel without a switch for the rare time that I want to override.
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89 Syncro Westy - GW 2.5

[thatvwbusguy]

With a properly functioning system, the force combine feature should rarely (if ever) be needed. If you find that you do need to combine the batteries thru the ACR, keep in mind that this feature can't be used as an immediate "jump start" substitute if you need to self rescue.

After the switch is flipped to force combine, wait a while (10-15 minutes) for the auxiliary battery to equalize with the starting battery before you turn the key.

If you are in a hurry to get going, a standard pair of jumper cables from the aux battery to the starter battery will do the trick without the wait. It is probably best to turn the Yandina off to perform a jump start with cables.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[rsxsr]

Be carefull with the force combine. I accidentally had mine in force combine when I first used it and accidentally started the engine with the force combine. The Yandina survived, but it melted the insulation off the wire all the way to the fusebox. I originally had used the VW camper relay wiring.

I have since brought heavy cable from the starter solenoid to the front of the Van to connect my Yandina to the charging system. No problems so far. What does come in handy is the forced disconnect when working on the electrical system, like when changing an alternator, starter etc. I have an aligator clip on my green wire that I clip to ground. This makes it safe to work on the main electrical system with out making sparks while leaving the auxilary battery still connected.

I vote no switch or single throw to ground. I should add, after upgrading the wiring, I no longer need to force combine the Yandina and it works as advertised. With the factory wiring, the Yandina was cycling too often and only seeing about 12.9 volts to the auxilary battery. I should have known then my wiring was inadequate.
_________________
1982 Diesel Vanagon Camper with ALH TDI.
1987 Syncro Tin Top. Organ Donor
2011 TDI Jetta Sportwagen.

[PDXWesty]

[r39o]

[purplepeopleeater]

[thatvwbusguy]

According to your diagram, here are your connections:

Up (toward the red lead) = Force Combined

Center = Automatic

Down (toward the black lead) = Off

8GA with 40A fuses should be fine. The wire can flow more than that safely, but probably never will unless you deeply discharge your auxiliary while camping.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[McVanagon]

[andy syncro-nutz]

Excuse my ignorace here, But is this just a split charge system with a manual switch?
_________________
1990 syncro,EJ22, Been a mechanic too long

[buildyourown]

[McVanagon]

[andy syncro-nutz]

does the auto switching function come from the alternator?
_________________
1990 syncro,EJ22, Been a mechanic too long

[thatvwbusguy]

Yandina is a dual sensing Automatic Charging Relay. It monitors the voltage level in each battery and combines the batteries when the voltage in either one is greater than or equal to 13V.

In a simple install, the source would be the alternator charging the starting battery. When the starting battery voltage reaches 13V, the relay latches and combines to charge the auxiliary battery.

Once the van is shut down and one of the batteries falls below 13V (using lights, radio etc), the relay separates the batteries from each other to safely isolate the starting battery.

Since the Yandina is dual sensing, it can also work with a solar/wind based charging systems connected to the auxiliary battery. In this case, when the voltage in the auxiliary battery reaches 13V, the relay latches and begins charging the starting battery as well.

The Blue Sea Systems ACR 7610 is another popular alternative, that can handle slightly more amperage and costs about the same. Both brands are high quality and work very well in the van for trouble free charging of multiple batteries.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[purplepeopleeater]

So, problem I think...

with it on auto the yandina was clicking and the red overload light would come on my rpm's would drop at the same time too.


with it on off it wouldn't do it.


ohhh crap, leaving tomorrow in this hog.
_________________
-Mike
67 Split Bus
86 westy- H4 powered
Subaru install
My Hightop install thread

[thatvwbusguy]

Take the switch out of the system and see what you get. Simplify for now and then trick it out when you have the time to troubleshoot.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[purplepeopleeater]

Just leave everything un hooked?


I think the switch was a stupid idea anyway.
_________________
-Mike
67 Split Bus
86 westy- H4 powered
Subaru install
My Hightop install thread

[thatvwbusguy]

The switch isn't a stupid idea, but it isn't an important function by any stretch of the imagination.

Remove the green remote wire from the switch and cap it so it can't ground and shut off the ACR.

Disconnect the red 12V+ power to the switch and safely cap it off as well. No need to have a live switch running to nothing.

All you need is the 8GA wires running from the positive post of each battery to the Yandina and the ground wire from the Yandina to chassis ground. Since your diagram shows Optima batteries, you also want the blue wire hooked up to the positive post of one of the batteries. I would connect the blue wire to the starting battery since it will be seeing the higher voltage reading first.

Double check your fuses and test the voltage at each battery once the van is running and the Yandina is in combine mode. They should be within 0.2V of each other if everything is behaving properly.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
VANAGON HEADLIGHT RELAYS & HARD START RELAYS

[purplepeopleeater]

Removinh the switch had no effect, fuses are good.

The two red leads from the yandina, I used above diagram for mine...would this cause my problem? The switch won't trigger the combine mode either.

I put the switch back and put it towrds the red lead and the overload light doesn't come on....I am driving now. No wires are warm..

What did I mess up?
_________________
-Mike
67 Split Bus
86 westy- H4 powered
Subaru install
My Hightop install thread