new s/p heads on my 1600 are leaking oil

[Chubby Buggy]

Hey, I am just getting back into bugs and the road has been bumpy so far. I bought a 69 baja with a 70 s/p block. It ran when I got it but I noticed I have low compression on drivers side. After trying a few things I bought reman'd heads. I put them on the torqued everything as it said too in my book. I put the engine back in and I fired it up to see where it was and it ran great. Better then it ever had. I drove from my shop to my house (bout 2 miles). My cousin (a mechanic) urged me to check the timing but I was so excited about how well it ran that I didnt feel the need too. But the next day I drove it back down to the shop (another two miles) and did the timing like he asked and noticed that yes, my timing was way advanced. After reading and talking to people I learned that even though it was running good I was doing horrible damage. Anyways, I adjusted it to 0 TDC based on my distributor number and tested it. Ran great but started hard. Advanced it bout 5 degrees. Starts much better now. Here in lies the problem. I started noticing oil dripping out of my drivers side head (where the head and the jug meet). I pulled the valve cover and re torqued the bottom 4 bolts and that solved the problem for about a day. Then I noticed just a little drip that grew a little bigger as I drove it. My next step is pulling the dog house and re-torquing the head properly (like I should have done in the first place). My question for all you experts is did I screw myself by driving it advanced? Is my engine hosed? Is there anything else I should be mindful of as I try to get this beast back on the road?

[marchanel]

Re-torque all of the bolts. Get a timing light.

[Chubby Buggy]

I have a timing light. It was just more of me being to excited to follow the proper steps and do it right. Hopefully re-torquing works. Thanks

[marchanel]

Make sure the leak is not something else like a pushrod tube or a valve cover gasket. Leaks can be hard to pinpoint sometimes.

[Eric&Barb]

When you have the engine stripped down to retorque the heads. Loosen the heads nuts first, then retorque ALL the engine case fasteners like you were building it for the first time. Follow that with proper head nut torque and make sure to use the two step process again like you were just building the engine from scratch!!

Did you install new push rod tube seals and stretch the tubes slightly longer???
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[deezal]

Had similar problem with new jugs, but used heads. I did the fixes prescribed here, but ended up lapping the jugs into the head. Solved my problem. Good luck with yours.

Deezal

[Harleyelf]

Check the spark plugs on the affected head. Are they oily? If they are clean and dry with the proper tan residue the issue is most likely a push rod tube. All the oil going in and out of the head should pass through the push rod tubes; inbound oil is contained inside the push rods and return oil flows around them in the tubes. If oil is escaping from the head anywhere else it is most likely cracked or has a bad valve guide - doubtful if it runs strong as both these conditions impair power.

[Chubby Buggy]

I did stretch the valve guides when I rebuilt the top end. I am fairly sure its coming from the head because its a small drip off of the cooling fins. I will look close again to see if there is any sign of oil coming out of the valve guides but Im not seeing any signs other then whats coming off of the cooling fins.

What does "lapping the jug to the head" mean/involve.

[Eric&Barb]

Doubt you stretched a valve guide. Those are made of solid brass and are inside the head.

Lapping is using a polishing compound to make two surfaces mate as perfectly as possible.
That would not cause an oil leak though.

Guessing you stretched the push rod tubes.

Again, did you install new seals on the push rod tubes???
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Chubby Buggy]

[Eric&Barb]

No problem with your confusion. We were all newbies at this at one time!!

No oil pressure in that area, but enough engine case pressure due to burning gasses getting by the piston rings. That can and will blow oil right out of any hole.

It could be the push rod seals needed to be replaced, or even that one of the push rod tubes cracked or was not straight enough so the push rod rubbed through the side.

When you install the push rod tube seals make sure to lube them up with some oil. That way they can slide into place instead of tearing.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Q-Dog]

And pushrod tubes need to be installed with their seams up. They sometimes leak at the seams. The airfrom the fan can blow oil from the tubes onto interesting places.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[marchanel]

Using old seals and gaskets is never a good idea. I think it's time to pinpoint exactly where the leak is. Chock the front wheels, get the rear of the car off the ground so you can get under it, put in on jacks stands so it won't fall on you. Get the suspected leak areas as clean as possible. With the car in neutral start the engine and get under the rear of the car and watch for leaks. Wear safety glasses so hot oil doesn't drip in you eye. You could even take pictures and post them here.