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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Quote:
This pic shows the lower shock mounts you got. They will have to be welded to the top of the arm. The shock mount bolt should be parallel with the pivot bolt for the arm. Those mounts won't mount at the stock level to allow mounting the shocks to the stock upper mounts. If you cut the lower mounts off the arms, you will need to build shock mounts on the roll cage inside the interior of the car.

Or...If you don't want holes for the shocks through the rear wheel wells into the interior...And I suspect you do NOT want that for how you plan to use the car...you will need to build a pair of arms which retain the stock lower mounts. The box kit gets in the way of that. Box kits used to be available with provision for using the stock mounts. But they just had a big notch to clear the shock. That notch made the box kit a meaningless addition of weight. There are some tubular reinforcing kits available. Check with Kaddy Shack who often advertises in the Samba home page header.


So basically what your saying is that I can't use the stock shocks and the stock upper shock mount if I continue to box the arms? There just tacked in and I kept all the stuff I cut off of the trailing arms so I can still go back.

I don't have a roll cage in my car so there no where to mount shocks except the stock one and I don't plan to add a whole roll cage just to mount some shocks.


If this is the case its not a huge loss, I will use my other pair of trailing arms that I didn't do anything to, and then use the ones I did modify for my eventual sand rail project. I will have to drill some holes to get the spring plate and the arms holes to match up because the ones I plan on using now are made for the single spring plate.

Here are some photos of what we painted, everywhere that was left gray will be bedlined. Its finally starting to come together!

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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were you I would swap the pan head right now to link pin. You could pick up a used head from the parts yard for 50$.

Very nice detail work. The paint looks great.

Steve
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already have my ball joint beam gusseted and holes drilled for a hook and rod, and the spindles, torsion bars, and everything else I need for a balljoint front. If my plans were to go long travel then yes I would upgrade but since I'm keeping it stock and maybe not even cut and turn it, I will stick to the ball joint beam.

Thanks, it will look even better when I get the bedliner on it.

So I made a list of what I still have to buy:
window seal kit 70$
door rubber kit 250$
hood seal 22$
wiring harness 270$
heater channels 240$
rattle can paint job 250$

Total: 1102$

Things that I would eventually want to get but don't need to get it driving:
kyb shocks 250$
skid plate 100$
heater boxes 100$ - 300$
new exhaust to go with heater boxes 150$

I decided I want to either go back to heater boxes or get the gas heater every talks about. I really wish I never sold mine.

If anyone else sees something that I forgot or a way to get something cheaper please pipe in.

Thanks.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the heater box installation...
One of the biggest problems with heater boxes is the slippage, leakage and constant maintenance required by the doughnut clamps where the header or even stock muffler attaches to the outlet end of the heater box.

I deal with those issues by replacing the doughnut clamps with 2-bolt flanges. I've done this for decades on all of my VWs, including street Bugs.

I do not cut any material off either the header or the heater box. I just weld the flanges to the header, then weld the other flanges to the heater box where they land.

I found that using a gasket in the joint tends to let the bolts loosen up and allows leakage. It gets hot enough at the flanges that self locking nuts don't work. Rust works better than even all metal lock nuts. So I leave the gaskets out and due to the tube overlap, there is almost zero leakage.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
For the heater box installation...
One of the biggest problems with heater boxes is the slippage, leakage and constant maintenance required by the doughnut clamps where the header or even stock muffler attaches to the outlet end of the heater box.

I deal with those issues by replacing the doughnut clamps with 2-bolt flanges. I've done this for decades on all of my VWs, including street Bugs.

I do not cut any material off either the header or the heater box. I just weld the flanges to the header, then weld the other flanges to the heater box where they land.

I found that using a gasket in the joint tends to let the bolts loosen up and allows leakage. It gets hot enough at the flanges that self locking nuts don't work. Rust works better than even all metal lock nuts. So I leave the gaskets out and due to the tube overlap, there is almost zero leakage.


Thanks, I'll have to look into doing that. Could you maybe show some pictures of what your setup looks like?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Header to heater box connection with flanges:
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Just requires 4 2-bolt flanges 1-1/2" and 4 bolts 5/16" x 1"or 8mm x 25mm with nuts. the last time I bought the pieces to do this it cost less than the best price for a set of muffler clamps and donut seals.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished bedlining the top a few days ago, we had to do it over 2 days because it took a long time to dry in this cold and dry weather. I'm not sure if we will be able to do the underside for a while because its too cold. I love how it looks but I'm even happier about its durability.

Since I just tossed my old heater boxes to the side and then sold them, what should I get? New? Original? Refurbished? How do the new ones work? Are there any high heat output ones that would put out more heat than stock? What do people usually have to do to get the system working at peak efficiency? Like sealing everything, tubes, etc. And because this is a baja, is there anything that will effect a baja but not a sedan? And how will the heater boxes effect performance? I want to add this for times like now, temperatures from the teen's up to the 40's but no snow yet and no salt.

Also, with the gas heater, what are the safety issues with it? I don't like the idea of a open flame right next to the gas tank. Not to mention I had troubles with it leaking fumes when I filled it.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

*Just my opion follows* Laughing


I've always heard about gas heaters and the horror stories about how they are not safe, leak, blow up, dump fumes in the car, etc. I needed heat in my Thing, and I had the BN4 heater installed but not running. I went through the whole thing and got it running like new. All I can say is how wrong all the naysayers are! The heat the thing throws out almost instantly will ment your shoes and roast you out of the car if you let it. Not saying the stock beetle setup will not do the same when setup correctly (and especially with a set of booster fans), but I'd do a gas heater any day over the stock setup now that I know how the system functions!
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any fuel line in any vehicle needs to be kept in good condition. Replace when cracking, hard or otherwise aging. The flame in a gas heater is just like the flame in a house furnace or gas dryer. It everything is maintained, there are no issues.

For heater boxes:
- booster fans are a help,
- heater boxes and flex ducts with no air leaks are good. be sure the water drains at the bottom of the heater boxes are clear and will drain condensation.
- Making a recirculating air setup with air return from the rear firewall with blower fans mounted there to blow through the heater boxes instead of taking in entirely outside air would help heat, but you need to make sure you get some fresh outside air too so you don't suffocate. Fresh air flow has been required by DOT in all US market cars since about 1971. That's why later model Bugs have the crescent vents behind the rear 1/4 windows.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I haven't gotten anything done to the pan over the winter, this years we broke the record for the longest streak of below 0 days in the history of this area. Not really mechanic friendly. This week it has finally got into the 30's so I went out today and cleaned the garage up a bit, and took stock of all that has to be done to get the pan all put back together. With me going to college soon the amount of money I will be putting into my car will practically be 0. I do have pretty much everything I need to get the pan together, but the body still has a lot of stuff I have to purchase for it so the body is at a halt for the moment.

I do have 2 questions, I need to clean the needle bearings that are in the front beam, do I have to take them out or can you clean them while they are in? If I do have to take them out how do I go about doing this?

And how do I safely disassemble the front beam? I know how to take the rear apart easy but what are the dangers of taking the front apart? Are the torsion bars under torque? Or do you just pull them out? I take it that you have to loosen the locking nuts but if someone could give me the steps for doing this that would be great. I know how dangerous the rear can be and I need to know what I'm getting in to before I do it to the front.

Thanks,
Cortland
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The front end you can just dissasemble. There are no torsion bars, just a leaf spring pack.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So summer is in full swing here and I've started to work on the front beam. I just picked it up from being run threw the parts washer down at napa and the bearings are a lot better now, nice and smooth no gritty sound. The bottom 2 arms go in effortlessly but the top 2 take a little bit more force and on one I even have to tap with a hammer to get it in. Is this normal?

How do I grease the bearings (the inner ones mostly) and what kind of grease do I use? Just normal wheel bearing grease?
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The inner section has bushings, the outer has bearings.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The inner section has bushings, the outer has bearings.


Oh ok, still what kind of bearing grease do I use?
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pounding an arm in suggests you may be doing some damage to the inner bushing or bearing. You might be getting it crooked. Be careful. Remember it fit there for years before, it shouldn't be too tight.

Just regular Lithium-based chassis grease will work fine. You don't need anything fancy for that.

Make some sort of swab to put some grease in the inner bushings, wipe grease thoroughly into the needle bearings, wipe a trailing arm with grease, stick it in and rotate it to wipe the grease around before final assembly. Then pump a few shots through the grease nipples once it's assembled.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've been thinking a lot about my body and I think I've decided to try to find a different one in better shape with not as much hack job done to it. I could replace the heater channels and the firewall and the wheel wells but I don't know what I'll uncover when I start peeling his patch job off and how it will make the already tough job even tougher. So here are the pictures of the spots that worry me. I never noticed this but the driver side is missing a foot of heater channel! And I think he replaced the rear quarter panel just didn't do the best job. I don't have any pictures but on the outside of both front wheel wells there are BIG pieces riveted on, they cover about half of the wheel well if not a little more.

Look for all of the patches he riveted on.

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I found a 1974 body thats from out west that is supposed to be in really good shape (haven't went to see it in person yet) for 450$. Why its so cheap is a tree fell on it and the roof is dented pretty bad, you could still sit in the cab so its not like its crumpled to the dash or anything. He is going to send me more pictures of a few areas I requested, the bottom on the heater channels, the other side of the dent, and the front and rear section of the heater channels inside. These pictures will make or break if I'll buy it or not, and your guy's thoughts.

So the plan would be to buy it, repair the roof by trying to bang out the dents with a body hammer and if that doesn't work transplant my roof onto this car. How hard would transplanting the roof be? What is all involved? A thread where they do this with pics would be awesome. I think this would be easier than to mess with and undo all of the PO's botch repairs I would run into with the body I have now.

Rust is the biggest thing for me. He said its been in his garage this whole time but recently had to make room for another vehicle so its been outside as of late, so there is surface rust starting on the pans. Thats why he is selling it, he doesn't want to watch it rot away outside.






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And if I do buy it worst case scenario I sell all the contents of the pan for 300$ and buy heater channels with that money, I would still have to do a tough repair but it wouldn't be made even tougher by all the hack job repair work, and would have more original metal. With the body I have now the whole lower 6 inches has to be replaced, thats a lot of work.

What do you guys think?

From the pictures I have now how does the body seem?

Do you think this is worth doing?

Or should I just stick it out with the one I have?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by Cortland15B on Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BUGGUTZ
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me, I would get it. If the roof pillars are true just skin that roof. If the pillars are jacked then use all you can from your current. Hard to say how the channels will be on the new one. Cant really know fro sure til you start pulling the pan off. For the price it looks good though.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I just got back from buying the car, heres the pics, let me know what you think.

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Not a bad deal at 450$. Look at this, the vin on this match the body and the pan. Its from Port Coquirlam, British Colombia, Canada. Got a Canadian bug!

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Now for the stuff I don't know what it is. Can you identify these items for me?

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Whats that thing on the far left?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cortland15B wrote:
Now for the stuff I don't know what it is. Can you identify these items for me?

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^ this is the charcoal canister. part of the fuel vapors recovery system. you can do a search in the forum and loads of threads will come up on whether it is something useful to keep or not.

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^ this is the fresh air box for the dynamic ventilation of the passengers' compartment

Cortland15B wrote:
Whats that thing on the far left?


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^ this one is the fuel vapors expansion chamber. it collects fuel vapors from the tank and filler neck allowing them to condense and flow back to the tank. It allows the tank to "breathe" without directly venting gas outside.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the ID of those parts. I've done some research and I think I'll keep those canisters on there. The rear one might be hard because I have a different engine that probably doesn't have the hose fittings but I won't have to worry about that for a while.
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