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pen
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Joined: July 18, 2011
Posts: 32
Location: NE Pa
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 Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 4:34 pm Post subject: Suggestions on fixing this crack |
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Just got back from putting on some early spring miles and gave the buggy a once over and found a crack in the body.
I'm new to fiberglass reinforcement / repair and wanted to show you guys what I found and see what you would suggest.
There is a lack of support across across the front kick panel to the floor (no attachment points) and I am guessing that is what initially has caused the crack but that's just my first thoughts.
Crack is right in the corner, along the bottom.
How would you approach this?
Thanks as always,
pen
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GTBRADLEY
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Joined: February 27, 2009
Posts: 580
Location: Katy Texas
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldnt even worry about it. Leave it till the next rebuild 
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1973 Surfer GT Boat
1966 Thunder Bug Buggy-current project
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pen
Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2011
Posts: 32
Location: NE Pa
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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I figured it happened because of not being secured properly from the start. Buggy only has maybe 1200-1500 miles on it since being set last time.
I can see movement in this area of the crack when I hit a bump.
pen |
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Dale M.
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Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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Keep a eye on it if it does not get worse don't worry about it....
IF it does get worse, you will probably have to grind out (feather edge) area of crack and lay in fresh mat and resin till you have build up to consistency of original layup.... IF possible wait till next rebuild or major "fix up session" some winter....
Dale
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pen
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Joined: July 18, 2011
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Location: NE Pa
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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Are cracks like these pretty common even w/ a good installation? Or is it usually a sign of something else in the build lacking?
pen |
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jspbtown
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Stock floors? |
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didget69
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Location: Capital, North Carolina
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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Probably a combination of factors... fiberglass is thin in the area in question, chassis flex, body under stress where it is fastened to pan, etc...
Leave it until the next rebuild -
bryan
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pen
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Location: NE Pa
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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| jspbtown wrote: | | Stock floors? |
Yes, but it looks like the the builder added some 2 inch square stock and some wood also. Wood is only as wide as the bottom flange on the body. Guessing it was added to raise the height. The square stock doesn't look stock to me, but I don't know shit from shinola yet, just learning these things. (reading though this forum every day, but it takes time)
Have had toys for years but never a custom build like a buggy (always near stock stuff) so I'm really green here. Here's what I'm looking at, you guys are the "doc's" that can tell me if what I'm seeing is malignant or not.
Thanks
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Dale M.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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From body down it looks like...
BODY
3/4 WOOD SPACER
VW PAN (lip)
SQUARE STOCK STIFFENER..
Would not worry about silly little crack...
Dale
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1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
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dan macmillan
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:37 am Post subject: |
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Part of your problem is the bolts used to hold the body down. Looks like you have sheet metal screws with no real washer support going down through the body and the same thing holding the floor up to the pan rail. You need actual bolts that pass through eveything with large diameter washers against the fiberglss lip and lower pan. Good idea to use nuts with the built in nylon lock so they can be set tight but not so tight they crack anything and won't loosen off.
As for the crack. After you properly secure the body, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, grind the crack to open it up and grind along the crack to roughen the top surface and taper it into the crack. Cut some glass strips to fit the area. You don't want the weave of all strips going in the same direction. Mix some resin and apply a coat, followed by cloth/resin/cloth/resin etc.
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pen
Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2011
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Location: NE Pa
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:42 am Post subject: |
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| dan macmillan wrote: | Part of your problem is the bolts used to hold the body down. Looks like you have sheet metal screws with no real washer support going down through the body and the same thing holding the floor up to the pan rail. You need actual bolts that pass through eveything with large diameter washers against the fiberglss lip and lower pan. Good idea to use nuts with the built in nylon lock so they can be set tight but not so tight they crack anything and won't loosen off.
As for the crack. After you properly secure the body, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, grind the crack to open it up and grind along the crack to roughen the top surface and taper it into the crack. Cut some glass strips to fit the area. You don't want the weave of all strips going in the same direction. Mix some resin and apply a coat, followed by cloth/resin/cloth/resin etc. |
\
Thanks. The screws that were used are metal roofing screws! The rubber washers on those screws were a nice idea, but changing them out to what you mention is on my to-do list.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone
pen |
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dan macmillan
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:57 am Post subject: |
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Thought that is what they were. If you used them because of the rubber seal just put some silicone under the washers. I use a minimum of 5/16 bolt sometimes a 3/8 and fender washers.
http://www.noahsboatbuilding.com/items.asp?Cc=Washers_FEN&Tp=&iTpStatus=1
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Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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Dale M.
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Joined: April 12, 2006
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Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:46 am Post subject: |
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Dan is correct ... The screws are not good.... I missed those... Minimally 5/16 grade five bolts and fender washers.... Drill all the way though all layers and use nyloc nuts because you have so many compression areas you will never keep standard lockwasher and nut tight....
Dale
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1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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jspbtown
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:36 am Post subject: |
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| Not to side track the discussion but.....that wiring. Oh my goodness. |
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pen
Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2011
Posts: 32
Location: NE Pa
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:10 am Post subject: |
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| jspbtown wrote: | | Not to side track the discussion but.....that wiring. Oh my goodness. |
I hear you! As a side note, I didn't do this build. Just trying to make it right from here bit by bit.
I have wanted one of these things for years. This one popped up locally so I bought it.
I figured the hassle of dealing w/ people over the phone and traveling to check out a buggy, plus the cost of travel and transport, wasn't worth the hassle of trying to find the perfect buggy. I'd rather spend my time working on this one.
pen |
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jspbtown
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Hey..I get ya. It looks like a great start and a solid buggy. It shouldn't take much to get it real nice.
Bad wiring is just a pet peeve of mine. |
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