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AEH EFI Project
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
simple as R&R. what is different in putting a efi on a vw vs a chevy,ford,mopar? longer wires??the efi dosent know wtf it is on.and it dosent matter.



If you believe that, you'd best stick to carbs as well. Wink
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mark tucker wrote:
make up your own##s.that way you will still sound like an exspert.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well..........ok.

Now that we got that out of the way, I still have had no luck locating an gas tank with a return, ( 75-77 std beetle w/EFI) Anyone know of a source before I order an std tank and add a bung?
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66brm
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Add a bung, its going to be an easier solution
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am the dork. I had a 76 beetle. Converted it to carbs ( welded the tank lines closed). Then I had to convert it back to EFI.

The tanks aren't that hard to find. The surge ring inside is a nice touch. You don't get this with a standard converted tank.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my fuel lines in. two 3/8" lines in the tunnel. Was not as bad as I thought it would be but still took all day. I pre-bent the lines to run like I wanted them to. Both down the passenger side and one out each frame horn. I shrink wrapped both lines all the way back just to help eliminate any noise in case I ended up with any metal to metal contact.(which I did not)

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I built some UHMW blocks to mount them with. I bought some of those nut-serts like you use in cheap furniture and pressed them into the blocks so I would not have to hold a nut in place to tighten them.

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I cut an access hole by each clutch tube repair location, as someone suggested and mounted a block in each location.

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I bought 4 PCV valve grommets that worked out perfect. I opened the factory holes in the frame up to 11/16" and drilled the new one the same size

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I used the factory locations for the supply line and placed the return right next to it.

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Welded up the access hole. I just need to grind them down and repaint those areas.

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Once I figured out how to do it really was not that bad. The hardest part was removing the factory fuel line and making myself cut the hole in the tunnel. It wont show, but it still hurt my feelings.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my Mega-Tune system from CB. It's a lot of stuff when you spread it out. Of course it ought to be. Had to send the manifolds and throttle bodies back and swap for injectors in the TB instead of in the manifolds. Wont fit with factory doghouse shroud. SO I'm doing what I can till they get back

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I ran my harness through the route in the body that the factory harness runs through. I measured first and it looked like it would be long enough but I was not sure it would all go through the holes with all those plugs. I pulled the factory harness back out first to make moor room for the plugs. With a little patience and some strategic taping it went through just fine. It looks like there will be plenty of length to reach #1 & #2 injectors. Everything else has plenty of length.

I have one of those cheap harbor freight snake cameras and it really came in handy for working the plugs through without stressing the harness. There was a couple times I thought I was stuck in the middle. Wouldn't go forward and wouldn't come back out either.

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I mounted the EMS in an electrical enclosure I had. It's the perfect size to just fit in that space between the heater tube and the back of the pan. A little foam tape on the back to eliminate vibration and it wont even budge even before bolting it down. I put the fuel pump relay in there as well.


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I snaked everything through the factory grommet in the heater channel. I had to enlarge the hole a bit but it all went.

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I got the pump mounted up front as well. Fit neatly against the firewall below the tank. I welded in a second bung into my new tank for a return. I set the tank in place but still need one fitting to hook it all up.

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Now that the wiring is done, I'll use the time until the throttle bodies get back to install the carpet and seats
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some nice work right there! I especially like how you did the fuel line routing up through the tunnel.

Max
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pupjoint
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great post, i am in the process of rigging up EFI for my car too, now it has a stock 1600 just to get it running etc, once it is done, i will work on the 2332cc.

my hardwares are 45mm Jenveys, Berg linkage, CB manifolds, CB crank trigger kit, Haltech Platinum Sport 1000.

i don't have much pics to show since i sent it in to a shop to do it as i work out of the country.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, its been a learning experience so far and I think the real learning is just about to begin.
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please make a build thread in the engine management forum at shoptalkforum so I can keep track. Things get pushed down the list too far here with 300 single port and "oil" posts each day.
s
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AEH
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question for the CB efi guys or anyone else for that matter. I did not get the IAC option with my system. I did not know it was an option and it wasn't discussed. CB has an integrated iac Do I need it or is the cold start map sufficient. I'm in Arkansas and it does get cold in January.

I understand that only about 10% of people opt for that option so I'd like to hear from some that don't have it.

Thanks
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AEH wrote:
I have a question for the CB efi guys or anyone else for that matter. I did not get the IAC option with my system. I did not know it was an option and it wasn't discussed. CB has an integrated iac Do I need it or is the cold start map sufficient. I'm in Arkansas and it does get cold in January.

I understand that only about 10% of people opt for that option so I'd like to hear from some that don't have it.

Thanks


Get it, you will be much happier. With it you can control idle speed at any engine temp. When the car is cold you can set 1500 rpm and have it drop to whatever you want as it warms up.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, do you have it on your set-up?
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not Mark, but I do have it on my system
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AEH
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry. Old eyes and an iPhone don't go together sometimes. I just went ahead and ordered it. Hope splitting the connector to the ECM to add the wires works out
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Sniperx
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the IAC also. Temperature and altitude compensations are pretty handy. I'm getting the hang of this tuning thing now..especially having some strating points. Check To Efi or not to EFI thread for more info on what I went about here.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my throttle bodies back from CB and started mocking them up before I pulled the engine. Dang, the fuel rail needs to run right through the box end I put on the rear cut. That was just about my favorite feature of the car.

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Even the Air cleaner was really tight. If would clear but just barely. Pat suggested the possibility of building some custom manifolds but in the end I just cut it. Hurt my feelings but once I get it finished out, it will look ok. Not great like it did, but I can live with it. That first cut was the hardest

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Then on to the next problem. I put my exhaust on and I had about 0.150 interference with the nut on the crank pulley. The Crank sensor puts it out about 1" further and the Bobcat exhaust wont fit.

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I could have put an impression in the header pipe but I decided to try to machine out enough clearance to make it work. I started with the crank pulley. I faced off the hub and then cut a 0.070 deep inset in the face of the pulley to allow the crack sensor wheel to slip in a little deeper. That bought me 0.075" total. Then I cut a 0.100 deep inset into the crank sensor wheel itself. just big enough for the washer to slip in. The I turned down the bolt head from and original thickness of 0.520" to 0.300"
All total I shaved off 0.395" total length. Once everything was lined up and bolted down I ended up with just under 0.2" clearance

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I have everything fitted up now except for installing the nutserts for the coil and mounted the fuel regulator under the car. Hopefully tomorrow will get me ready to turn the key for the first time.
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AEH
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's Alive!!. Started it up this evening, runs good.

I'm amazed with CB customer support. I got everything ready to go, turned the key and all it would do was turn over. I checked and rechecked all the connections. Made sure I had fuel in the rails. Everything I could think of to check and then I called Mark at CB. He dialed in on the laptop and have me turn it over about three times looking at the software. Then he said I think you have a bad ignition switch.

I was thinking, right. I turn the key, the lights all work, everything comes on. IT turns over in the start position. But I did as he suggested and wired directly to the battery instead of the ignition circuit and turned the key and it started instantly. They said it had happened on two other cars over the years, but I would have never figured that one out. I ran out of time but I got it idling great and the TB's synced. I wont be able to play with it tomorrow so it will be Monday before I take it for a spin but Im excited to finally get it running.

I bought some pinch welt and edged the cut for the TBs and it looks pretty good. Does not look like such a Opps now.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin good.

Do not let the fuel line rest against the cylinder tins. That area gets very hot and will degrade the hose. Adel clamp it to the fan shroud.

Where did you buy the pinch welt edging?
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