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GTBRADLEY
Samba Member
Joined: February 27, 2009
Posts: 578
Location: Texas
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 Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:31 am Post subject: |
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And when you get back from there you can head over to Boerne for the Buggy Round Up Laborday weekend.
| Bob Elgin wrote: |
Mine has to be ready by August 3rd, thats when we leave for vacation for Creede Colorado. SanJuan national forest, mountain passes, elevation 13,600 ft is one of a ton of passes we take.
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This is a great build. Keep at it. Looks like someone wanted a longbody then decided(correctly) that it would be easier to shorten a pan then it would to lengthen a body.
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Thunderbug by Bugformance 1969 |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:33 pm Post subject: Chassis Square? |
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Seeking some wisdom here.
So basically my main concern is.....based on what I have here will I experience any problems on the road? Is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch diagonally anything to worry about?
Background info - I did not shorten this chassis myself. I am simply taking the work that someone else did and I am trying to understand if I have any unforeseen problems.
I have not driven the buggy so I am not sure if it drove well beforehand. It was not drive-able when I purchased it.
The only thing I am thinking about trying is moving the front beam towards the welder within its mounting holes as much as possible. That should minimize my problems a bit. I doubt that it will move much though.
Thanks. |
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jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5157
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 6:44 am Post subject: |
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You will probably get a boat load of opinions here...so I will throw mine in.
I think its fine. Your not building a autobahn ready race car. I don't think the difference between the two measurements will make a difference. |
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didget69
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004
Posts: 4927
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 6:44 am Post subject: |
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Your measurements assume that the framehead is at 90-degrees/square to center line of tunnel. Framehead may be slightly askew, shock towers may be askew, rear measure points may be askew, sag in measuring tape may make up part of difference, etc...
Remove the front beam & clamp a section of tubing of the same OD/width of empty beam to framehead, then measure back to rear datum points... what do you get then?
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I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:40 pm Post subject: Alright |
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Thanks guys. I will have some time this weekend to drop the beam and play with it more.
I have a hard time putting much faith in the accuracy of the rear body mount holes but I am just not sure what else to pull my tape to. |
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VolkswagenGerry
Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010
Posts: 220
Location: San Rafael Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Try measuring from the machined surface of trailing arm??
Shock tower might be bent slightly..
Cross reference a few diferent places to measure and see what kind of variables you get.. you can also C-Clamp a level or steel flat bar to somthing and run your measurements out farther from the chasiss... oh didget said that...
also concider without a pan that tunnel is a little twisty...
It will prob drive fine .. so what if it makes sharper right turns than left... lol |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:17 pm Post subject: Update |
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A few pictures.....
I have replaced a lot of rust with new metal and I have begun work on my new perimeter floor.
Building buggies is a slow process!! |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:21 pm Post subject: Updates and pictures.... |
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A few pictures from today. I figured out that my frame squareness can be fixed by pulling the passenger side torsion tube forward with a cable winch. So I am going to work with that to better my squareness and side to side dimensions.
I also cut and tacked in some of the new perimeter frame. I ended up cutting the "J" supports that come off the torsion tubes to fit the 1"x2" tubes. I think it will work just fine. I will have to notch the floor pans but that isn't a big deal. |
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Bob Elgin
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Joined: April 11, 2012
Posts: 327
Location: Waco, TX
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SpitnSpatz
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2009
Posts: 77
Location: wilmington, delaware
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| Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys...HOLD UP!!! I love the spatz plate idea but I have some important info for you; Spatz dune buggy bodies were actually made in Yorklyn, Delaware. The fella I bought my project from lived in Yorklyn, literally down the street from the warehouse. Not sure what the cause was (fire maybe?), but the building was dilapidated and eventually collapsed...ending the production of dune buggy bodies. Spatz then moved to the Churchmans Rd. location in New Castle, Delaware and picked up their industrial business, consisiting mostly of industrial piping. I do not believe they are still in business or even trade under the name Spatz anymore. When I finish my buggy, the PO wants to see it...so I will get the whole story from him and pass it on. Like to have a plate for the VIN too...cool idea!!
google maps street view: 2855 Creek Rd, Yorklyn, DE |
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Bob Elgin
Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2012
Posts: 327
Location: Waco, TX
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 6:29 am Post subject: Update |
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Wow. That is some good info SpitnSpatz. Does anyone on here know of anyone who ever worked for Spatz? That would be cool to get their input on all this. Anyways, I forgot about the ID plates until you brought it back up.
Anyways, I finally started my perimeter frame. I am using 2"x1" for the frame. I had to recreate the "napolean" hat since I didnt want to replace the whole thing and just the ends. I am going to follow Pallen's lead on some of the bracing up front eventually.
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crowe66
Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2006
Posts: 729
Location: Maryland
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| Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 8:51 am Post subject: |
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your garage is way too clean....... 
Nice job so far!!
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65 Beetle
Berrien Nostalgia Buggy - 67 chassis |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:25 am Post subject: Thanks |
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Thank you. I have a bit of a pet peeve about keeping the floor clean and whatnot. Haha.
Hoping to finish up the other side this weekend and start cutting the floors to match. |
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SpitnSpatz
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2009
Posts: 77
Location: wilmington, delaware
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| Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:00 pm Post subject: Re: Update |
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| herbsflat4 wrote: |
| Wow. That is some good info SpitnSpatz. Does anyone on here know of anyone who ever worked for Spatz? That would be cool to get their input on all this. Anyways, I forgot about the ID plates until you brought it back up. |
Nice build herbsflat4!! I am just about at the same spot in my rebuild but i was lucky to have only the battery tray area to repair. I wish my progress was as swift as yours!!
I finally remembered to take a pic of my id plate. I recall speaking to another Spatz owner some time ago who had talked to a long time employee of the company before they dissolved. He said the owner is reluctant to talk about the dune buggy products due to some legal issues he had...maybe copyright or patent problems? Hopefully I will be able to dig up some more info for you guys...especially since I live so close to where the Spatz buggies were produced...
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:16 am Post subject: Update |
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Passenger side rail is tacked in and "pretty" similiar to the driver side.
I also dropped the engine off with mxracer for inspection. More on this topic later. |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:45 pm Post subject: Update on frame, pans, engine |
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As you can see I made a template for the passenger side floor pan and cut it out (not pictured). The floor pans are made out of 14 gauge sheet metal.
I also cut out some rear sections.
Visable progress is great.
On a sidenote......I have decided to have 1904 engine built for the buggy. I picked up a good universal case built up with some very low mileage Mahle 90.5 'A' pistons that I want to use. So the basic build will be along the following lines......
74mm Crank
Engle W110 camshaft
Mahle 90.5 pistons and cylinders
Unitech Rods
Heads are 35.5 x 40. They will have some mild work done to them.
Need to find some Dellorto 40 DRLA carburetors
This weekend is looking good for some more quality work time. |
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vaughn bros.
Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2003
Posts: 2395
Location: Hickory, NC
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Super nice! |
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herbsflat4
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2012
Posts: 159
Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:51 am Post subject: PANS IN! |
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Some mock up going on.
Installed new bearings in both trailing arms and "installed" the rear disk brake kit. This kit will allow me to run wide 5 rims both front and back without adapters. I needed this since my front end is from a 62 beetle and my back end is IRS from a 73 beetle. Franken-buggy!
Before adding a "brace"
Brace is tacked in. The PO cut the tunnel in 2 locations. So since this area was one of the 2 major cuts I wasn't 100% confident in the rigidity of this section. Therefore, I added a piece over the cut section and tried to tie it into the front hat. I feel better about it now. That is all that matters.
Pans are going in! Ahhh, visible progress is good.
More pictures to come. |
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pallen
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Joined: February 15, 2012
Posts: 589
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