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Mowgli25
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:01 pm    Post subject: Battery Reply with quote

Well I've had a crazy time with my new rail. I was having trouble starting it and then it wouldn't start at all. I would turn the key and it wouldn't even kick on my starter. I jumped it and that seemed to work. Now this is my current problem. I got the battery charged and it is coming up as a good battery. When I put it into the rail it would even power the light on my tac and won't kick the starter on. I though it was bad so I got it tested again and its good. The only way I can get it to start is by jumping the good battery. I put my truck battery in the rail and everything works just fine. Can that battery be bad even though it is reading good? And what battery should it be replaced with? I don't even know if it's the right battery to begin with but it had been working fine
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68bugbaja
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. A battery can be "good" and bad. It has a couple of amps to pass the test but not enough to do anything with. I would get a new one, some where around 650CCA.
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Mowgli25
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my multi meter it was coming up at 12.6 and the battery I used had 12.2 and that one worked
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baja5
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It all depends on the type of battery tester used. If they are using the new modern internal impedence battery tester it can test good static but still be bad under a load. Are they actually putting a Load tester on the battery?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe Its not the battery..... How about starter and solenoid or "start" circuit wiring.... With everything hooked up (battery) jump a wire from the battery (side) terminal of solenoid to terminal 50 ( where wire for start switch goes), if solenoid engages and starter spins up motor you have start switch wiring issues....

Also make sure all battery and ground connections associated with start circuit are clean and no corrosion.... Also verify ground strap from chassis to trans-axle if your ground cable from battery does not actually terminate on trans-axle...

Also put volt meter on battery while trying to spin up starter, if meter goes below about 9 volts ( battery under load) you may still have bad battery even though it tested good... IF you do not get any voltage drop at all ( stays at 12 plus volts), you have solenoid or wiring/switch issues...

Dale
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gfw1985
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading voltage is very little good when dealing with a battery. It needs to be load tested. I just spent three day's helping a guy online having been told battery was good. Finally convinced him to have it load tested and bingo, 30 CCA under load.
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Failproof
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be as simple as build up on the terminals of the battery. Try cleaning everything real good first?
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STOICH
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baja5 wrote:
It all depends on the type of battery tester used. If they are using the new modern internal impedence battery tester it can test good static but still be bad under a load. Are they actually putting a Load tester on the battery?
Applause a loose ground can also cause this... but the test statement is true
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Mowgli25
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seems weird that it works fine with a different battery. Which makes it seem like it wouldn't be anything with the wires or starter or anything like that. Battery I'm thinking
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF battery "A" is a problem, and battery "B" is fine.... Think about it....

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tdonaldson
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idk if you need to go crazy with an expensive battery. I have a cheapy used one that tested bad somewhere. The label was for 6 or 7hundred CCA, but it only had 3 or 4hundred. Still turns my engine over fast even well below freezing. Stockish 1600.

Is every battery connection shiny clean?
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are using one of those cheap ($10) key switches from the auto parts store then i have been having trouble with the start feature on it. i still use the key switch for power but added a push button to start the car. take the wire off the start terminal on the back of the switch (make sure the car is in neutral) and touch it to the terminal on the switch that is hot/coming from the battery and see if it cranks.

if still nothing, change the spade connector on the wire that goes to the solenoid on the starter from the key switch.
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Battery Reply with quote

Mowgli25 wrote:
And what battery should it be replaced with? I don't even know if it's the right battery to begin with but it had been working fine


i have been running marine batteries in my buggies. i figured they are designed to bounce around in a boat then should work great in a off road buggy.
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Mowgli25
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i figured it out. the battery terminals where clean and shinny but were not making a good conection. i replaced the whole thing and that worked out. the others ones looked fine but thats what happens when its exposed like that i guess
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Failproof
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the simple easy, cheap/free fixes first, then start throwing money at it! Clean/tight connections are a must, on EVERY connection! We get hundreds of batteries back every year that are 100% fine, but a poor connection somewhere spoiled the soup!
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