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dcheek
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:17 am    Post subject: Axle Boots Reply with quote

I have to replace the axle boots on my '66 Westy. I purchased the German split boots from Wolfsburg West. My only question is how to position them. Common sense would dictate orienting the seam with the screws at the top. This would lessen the possibility of any leaks should the seam become compromised. I also noticed that the small end of the boot is eccentric with the rubber being thinner on one side where the clamp goes. Is this for reason? Also, is there a special tool required to tighten the clamps? They aren't screw clamps like on some other versions. It's more like a snap ring arrangement.

Dave
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zehbeh
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the seam on the top is wrong, it has to be at 3 or 9 o clock.
Then the seam is in the neutral zone, relating to bending. In the top position it will be compressed and under stress.
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dcheek
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zehbeh wrote:
the seam on the top is wrong, it has to be at 3 or 9 o clock.
Then the seam is in the neutral zone, relating to bending. In the top position it will be compressed and under stress.


That makes sense. Thanks for the tip. It is also easier to tighten the tiny bolts and nuts in this position.

Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=490446&highlight=axle+boots
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also thought the WW ones weren't good quality as far as cracking prematurely?
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galexander
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a tool for that, I've used it before on CV joint boot clamps, it sorta squeezes the clamp tight and compresses/crimps the slack in the center.. KD Tools makes it, should be available at your auto parts store.
It's tool #3955 CV Boot Clamp Tool
They work pretty good, but its a one time deal for the clamp.
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dcheek
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

durfeec wrote:
I also thought the WW ones weren't good quality as far as cracking prematurely?



Made in Germany by Bilstein I'm assuming that's about as good as it gets.

Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shop manual
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Most people put it more angled up though, like 1 o'clock for the side above, pointed at the bolt near that "time".

Example of the other side so more like 10:30:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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dcheek
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Shop manual
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Most people put it more angled up though, like 1 o'clock for the side above, pointed at the bolt near that "time".

Example of the other side so more like 10:30:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What sealing compound would you recommend?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never used sealing compound.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the last 25 years I have used the black Permatex.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

never used any here either, and never had a problem.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

never used sealant, ALWAYS had a problem with leaking axle boots. Cant even get the colored boots to not leak. Thinkin about using 4 or 5 tubes of silicone rtv and no boot..............wont be able to even see my transaxle but maybe the bitch wont leak.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gear oil gets by the daisy that fits on the inside of the bell end of the axle tube and drips into the boot, but not a whole lot. The axle boot is meant to be a dust cover.
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
Gear oil gets by the daisy that fits on the inside of the bell end of the axle tube and drips into the boot, but not a whole lot. The axle boot is meant to be a dust cover.

i have had a boot pull off where it attaches to the transmission sidecover
after doing a little off-roading driving and i puked out at least a quart and a half of gear oil after the 5 mile drive home.

it didnt pull all the way off the connection, just slightly

with gear oil at ~30 bucks a gallon, it pays to check your clamps once in a while.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I have removed axle boots, there has never been much oil inside them.
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dcheek
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:33 am    Post subject: Boots Replaced-Thanks to all for your help Reply with quote

I replaced both boots this past Saturday. It took 3 hours from start to finishing with clean up. I opted to position the seam at 9:00 on the passenger side and 3:00 on the drivers side which is the way they appear in the service manual (Thanks EB). I supported the rear of the Bus with ramps after removing the tail pipe that was hitting the ramp upon approach. This gave me plenty of room to work, along with keeping the axles level. The old split boots were red in color and from Taiwan. The passenger side boot had a 2" slit in it. The driver's side had no slit but all the screws were loose, as were the passenger side. I noticed the seam was positioned at the top, which was probably why all the screws loosened up. The German Bilstein boots are definitely better quality and fit perfectly. The most trouble I had was securing the clamps with the special tool I borrowed from my daily driver mechanic. There isn't a lot of room to position the tool so you can crimp the clamps. I finally figured out the best method by the very last clamp. I topped off the transmission fluid and reinstalled the tailpipe. I drove around all day yesterday and so far, no leaks. By the way I didn't use any sealer. I just made sure I cleaned all the mating surfaces.

I would like to thank all those who helped out with this project. There is no substitute for hands-on advice. The service manuals go only so far and usually leave you hanging.

Dave
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Campy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since your axle tubes were level and not hanging down when you installed the two axle boots, you need to push in on the outer edge of the boot after having tightened the big clamp and as you tighten the small outer clamp. Did you do that? It is done so, as the axle tube goes down, the boot won't get stretched.
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dcheek
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
Since your axle tubes were level and not hanging down when you installed the two axle boots, you need to push in on the outer edge of the boot after having tightened the big clamp and as you tighten the small outer clamp. Did you do that? It is done so, as the axle tube goes down, the boot won't get stretched.


Yes.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am curious to see how those axle boots hold up. After having seen many "quality" boots fail in as little as three months, I have switched to using the cheap EMPI accordion boots. No leaks, and they don't fall apart on their own. Plus, you can get them in all kinds of wonderful colors to match your custom bus. Very Happy
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