**Update-FIXED**Just died? then started after 20

75bus4/me · Last edited by 75bus4/me on Sat Mar 10, 2012 4:16 pm; edited 3 times in total

3 month old Electric fuel pump on a single Weber .1975 bay.

When teaching my son stick shift the bus died and would not re-start. The bus turned over tried to stay running but no go. I checked the filter and it is new a clean I checked the pump and very hot. We waited about 20 min and it stared and we drove home with no problem.

Any ideas on what it could have been?

Thanks Gerry
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

jeffsbugs · Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:16 pm Post subject:

Fuel starvation or pump is starting to go.

What type of pump? A pic would help.

Jeff
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'73 Westfalia, rebuilt 1700, dual OG solex - 3500 miles and counting
'62 Baja

75bus4/me · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:31 pm Post subject:

It's a carter. electric and only 3 months old. I re bolted it tighter could it have been a loose ground?

Gerry
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

75bus4/me · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:15 pm Post subject:

Drove it today no problems..
Would like to know what it could be kind of wierd.
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

75bus4/me · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:08 pm Post subject:

any ideas???

Thanks
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 19862

More information about your installation would get you more responses, particularly pictures of your pump as installed.

75bus4/me · Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:28 am Post subject:

75bus4/me · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:34 pm Post subject:

Running and starting fine now. but unsure of what it could of been?

Thanks
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

chimneyfish · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:19 pm Post subject:

Last time it did it to me, as in bus died for no apparent reason, then having to go through the usual roadside fault finding procedure was in October 2011. It was the condensor on the distributor, which after about 20 minutes decided on its own that it was OK again. I have replaced it with a Beru condensor, but it was another nail in the coffin for conventional ignition for me, I'm going to swap over to electronic ignition sometime this year. Your loose ground theory sounds very plausible.

No harm in checking and giving a service to all your ignition connections and wires, your distributor cap, rotor arm, points, plugs, condensor, coil etc.
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1976 Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 Camper (Danbury)

Tom Powell · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:40 pm Post subject:

chimneyfish · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 4:13 pm Post subject:

Thanks Tom. In that 20 minutes I had pushed on every connection going, but at least I feel better with a Beru than the non-descript replacement condensor I was running. As you rightly say, even if electronic, carry spare points and condensor, and a static timing light. (sorry, don't want to hijack thread) but does anyone know of there is any fact in the rumours that if you have Pertronix ignition fitted, that if you leave your key in the ignition with the ignition on but engine off, that the Pertronix unit will burn out and fail after a minute or two? Or is that just a myth? I read it somewhere on here, which gives me some trepidation to the electronic system.
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1976 Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 Camper (Danbury)

Tom Powell · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:04 pm Post subject:

bsairhead · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:09 pm Post subject:

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:43 pm Post subject:

was the intake manifold cold to the touch? that single carb can ice up the manifold very easily....try driving for like 10 mins from cold and see if the manifold gets cooler to the touch...if it iced up, it would keep the fuel from being a mist, and make it into drops, with will flood the engine basically, and after about 20 mins, it would warm up enough to start.

maybe?

busdaddy?
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MINE - 1978 Westfalia ~ Maisy ~ FI, Hydraulic Valves, Electronic Points, 2.0 (NEED A SET OF HEADS, PM ME IF YOU HAVE A SET)

DAD's - 1972 Westfalia ~ Sticky ~ 1.7(?) 914 motor, allison electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, dual webers w/o choke.

“Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened.”

“Those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.”

1975 Kombi · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:51 am Post subject:

75bus4/me · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:45 am Post subject:

Tcash · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:09 am Post subject: cranks won't start

Hi, if your pump was hot connections are good. You need to determine if it is a fuel or ignition problem. Then go from there. Good Luck
Cranks Won't Start

busdaddy · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:08 pm Post subject:

^X2^
There's lots of things that can fail when warm like coils, points, condensers, rotors, wires and plugs in the ignition system and pumps and float levels in the carb. Don't rule out tight valves or bad compression either and there's always the possibility of something floating around in the fuel tank intermittantly blocking the outlet, or a bad ignition switch.

There, does that narrow it down enough? Razz

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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:53 pm Post subject:

1975 Kombi · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:59 pm Post subject:

Carb ice depends on the temp and dew point numbers. If the numbers are close then the drop in temp going through the venturi will create ice on the walls of the carb and choke it off. The symptoms ahead of time is a gradual loss in the pedal response and then the engines dies.
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Brett

"I do not see things as black and white, but everything as very colourful!"

'75 Kombi/Westy (2.0L CV, H-Lifters, '75-'79FI mix, XR700, 003 Auto) project.
03 Jetta TDI, 04 Honda civic, 71 super beetle
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
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Rust In Peace: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

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