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first post: clutch cable just snapped (1974).. (Portland)
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: first post: clutch cable just snapped (1974).. (Portland) Reply with quote

So, I joined The Samba yesterday and it just so happens that today my clutch cable snapped while driving through Portland!
If you're in Portland, I'm in Foster Burger, drinking a beer and trying to figure out how to get my Beetle home..

Confused
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Last edited by ryans on Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

but, seriously, is there someone in town with a clutch cable? Always V-Dub is closed.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish you were closer!

Any used book shops in the area?? The Idiot's Manual by John Muir has section on how to drive without a clutch. Not what you want to do to your VW long term, but it will get you home.

Make sure you post year of Beetle. Cables changed lengths over time.
Make sure to pickup a gen belt and accelerator cable also to carry in the front hood.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is some info:

http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&p=driving+without+clutch

Problem is you have to have engine off when ever starting from a full stop in first or reverse. Slide the stick shift into one of those gears and then try to start engine. Doing this with it in gear will make your VW jump with the starter and engine trying to get going.
Probably best if you push it to the rear, say to get it out of a parking spot and then try to start it in first.
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!
it's a '74 standard.
I have a belt and some tools in the car.
and, the Muir book!
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you want to pop it out of gear, you want to not be accelerating or slowing with the engine, just enough power to keep it at speed when you slide it out of gear. With engine dragging or pushing faster the shifter will not want to pop out of gear easily.

Try to figure out a path home with least stops or even better quieter back roads where you might get away with not fully stopping.
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Last edited by Eric&Barb on Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ryans wrote:

I have a belt and some tools in the car.
and, the Muir book!


Yay!! Get it out and start reading.

Is engine warm??
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

by now, its probably not warm. I am considering whether to take neighborhood roads or wait until night when there is less traffic.
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dan macmillan
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a tip. When you replace the cable, check your transmission to chassis ground strap. If it is bad or missing all starter current goes through the clutch cable causing it to heat/stretch and eventually break.

Wait for less traffic as starting the engine in gear can be unnerving the first time around. Shift to neutral prior to turning it off for stops.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If not warm, start it up and idle it about 5 minutes, then shut it down and try starting it in gear. Hopefully that will keep it from icing up when you start it out in gear.

Biggest hurdle is trying to get engine RPM to match close enough to what RPM that gear is doing. Helps to rev a bit higher than normal and gives you more time to get it in nest higher gear.

See in top of first gear you are going to be doing over 3,000 RPM, in bottom of second gear more like 1,500 RPM. So you need a second or two to let engine drop enough RPM to allow match to get into bottom of second gear.

Starting from a stop in first is pretty hard on engine bearings and so is running too low of RPM in higher gear. So try to minimize those.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can set up your route so a stop is on a downhill you probably do not need to turn off engine. Just let up on brakes and let it coast till rolling along enough to slip into first gear. Of course steeper the hill the less problem, and might not need to slip it into gear till you hit the flats again and then figure out which gear to slip it into.

If you have stock gearing and properly working speedo you want to keep in general these ranges.

1st 3-15 MPH

2nd 15-30 MPH

3rd 30-45 MPH

4th 45-60 MPH

Try not to go below those ranges in 2 thru 4th gears, and only go above those ranges for short bursts, like when up shifting.

Please keep us all posted on how it went when you are home!!
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

use a laso much easier .I did for 60 miles.
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

made it home!
I realized that there was a mostly downhill, low traffic neighborhood route. I did it with a combination of pushing, rolling down hill and first gear. Had to start in first about 4 times.. Now, I guess I wait until Monday to buy a cable. I'm not really clear on how I get at the part that hooks to the pedal, though..
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Redvolk65 wrote:
use a laso much easier .I did for 60 miles.


I have done this, in the past. It was fun.
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Redvolk65
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ryans wrote:
Redvolk65 wrote:
use a laso much easier .I did for 60 miles.


I have done this, in the past. It was fun.

glad ur home
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jlex
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ryans wrote:
made it home!
I realized that there was a mostly downhill, low traffic neighborhood route. I did it with a combination of pushing, rolling down hill and first gear. Had to start in first about 4 times.. Now, I guess I wait until Monday to buy a cable. I'm not really clear on how I get at the part that hooks to the pedal, though..


You'll be taking the pedal cluster out to replace the cable...
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a new clutch cable hook for pedal assembly at same time. If you do not need it this time, you will need it someday. So nice to have that as a spare in the garage.

Do you have the Bentley Manual for your year and type of VW?? Get one ASAP.

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Of...amp;sr=8-9

Congrats on getting home safely!!!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also make sure the wing nut fits and turns easily on the new cable. Sometimes the die used on them has seen better days, then you need to buy a die and fix the treads. Grease the threads to keep the nut turning without corrosion later.
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ryans
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, okay, pedal cluster comes out, got it.

I do not have the Bentley manual, yet. It is on it's way, in the mail.

Thank you for all of the advice! I will make sure I get the cable hook.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I carry a spare fan belt, accelerator cable, and clutch cable/wing nut in the trunk. And tools to change them on the road if necessary. Personally, I've only had the clutch cable break once while I was driving a VW (40 years). But both cables have gone (at different times) stranding current Mrs. Cusser on the road until I got there, and almost-Mrs. Cusser #1 had the accelerator cable break while she was borrowing it.
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