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asbill71
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:08 pm    Post subject: Need some input on build Reply with quote

I have read and searched the build threads and combo threads. Just had a question.

I have most of the parts to build my next motor. It will go into my 69 Bay Window. Here is what i have currently and I would appreciate any input on a combo that would benifit me and my heavy bay, It will be driven on weekends and I have been known to have a heavy foot from traffic light to traffic light...

AS41 Case bone stock
044 Heads (ported)
82 mm Forged Crank
Straight Cut gears & FK8 cam
H beam rods
New lifters
CB lightened 8 dowel flywheel
Pair of Dellorto 40's

I know kinda a hodge podge of parts but all these have been checked out and are good to go. I just can't decide if biiger is better especially in a heavy bus?? Any input or experience is appreciated.
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MJulien
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a longer stroke is Ok for low end torque, but I would stay smaller on the pistons. Think about longevity/reliability instead of high performance.
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westy richardson
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is very similar to what I'm building .
Go for 90.5 barrels & pistons, that will give you a 2110 which is a good combo in a bus for power and reilabilty.

I'm going 90.5x82
FK 8 with straight cut gears & 1.4 rockers
Senseable 40x35 valves in cnc 044's
CB performance 5.4 uni tech rods
OG VW flywheel lightened & 8 doweled
Weber 40 IDF's with CB upgrade kit
Merged header with mondo muffler.

All balanced and blueprinted etc.
Should be good for 150hp Very Happy
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. On a 2110 (90.5 X 82) does it require clearancing the cam so it doesnot get hit by the crank?
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

either 90.5s or THICK WALL 92s would work great for a bus.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-9...all-aa.htm
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup thick wall 92's. I finaly got some thick wall 90.5's but have never had anny issue with the thin ones, but it's not in a bus.
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok a few things have changed. I still have the same parts, but the engine with be going into a lowered (alot) 57 Bug. I am not sure I can run an oil sump and I would like to avoid anything that would cause heating issues. That said I love to put my foot in it. Should I still build the 2110? Will it rquire an oil sump and lots of things to make and keep it reliable? Or maybe I would be better building something smaller. I have another virgin block and could buy a new crank. I appreciate any help. I have the money but am seeking advice before I pull the trigger.
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66brm
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah your original combo looks good for a bug stick with the 2110cc
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2110 is a good engine size and would make a great engine for a Bus but not with an Engle FK-8. However, now that it's going into a Beetle the FK-8 makes sense. That said, and this is my straight up opinion, if you are going to run your Bug so low that you can't even put a deep sump on the engine then forget about running the 2110 in the Bug - unless you run a dry sump but most people don't want to invest that much in their VW.

Another reason to not run the 2110 or any high performance engine in a slammed Bug - safety. Yeah I know I sound like the old fart telling you what not to do. If it's truely so low you can't run a sump then in all likelyhood it's riding on the snubbers which means you have virtually no suspension travel. If you get to hauling ass in that thing and come upon a pothole, railroad tracks or a dip in the road you could be in bad shape real quick........and I'll bet you also have stock drums all around on that Bug too don't you?

Anyway, there's my thoughts. Just something to think about for your safety is all.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No its got new disk at all four corners. And I want to cruise it alot but kinda want some snap when I blip the throttle I am not one of the "Fast and Furious" type who haul ass 90 mph down the streets. If I get into the gas its for a short time from a stop light. Here are some pics of how it sits now. Trans is a 66 short axle.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asbill71 wrote:
I am not one of the "Fast and Furious" type who haul ass 90 mph down the streets.
OK, that's cool. Just thought I'd say what I said because sometimes a person (not you) doesn't think about all the aspects of going fast. Well, I suppose you might try one of the low profile sumps from CB Performance, the thin line sump might work. You really do need the extra oil capacity with a high performance motor IMO.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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66brm
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adding a full flow system will also add an extra quart, I'm up to 6qrt for an oil change
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you think a 2110 is the way to go especially if I could run a thin sump? Or save my 82mm crank for another build and build a smaller engine??

Sorry didn't intend to sound like a smart ass. I really do appreciate the input. I have never owned or even driven anything bigger than a 1600 dp with a set of Del 36's on it. I don't know what the seat of pants difference will be between a 1776-1915-2110. I have drag raced Chevrolets most of my life, and bigger was always better there. But too much motor kinda takes the fun out of a good street cruiser. Im trying to strike a good balance of Power to Fun ratio...

Thanks again. Here is a pic of my last Chevy before getting bitten by the VW Bug so to speak,,

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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66brm
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no ratio, power=fun unless you call that a 1:1 ratio
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[email protected] wrote:
Kadrons are horrible excuses for carburetors.

modok wrote:
I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

66brm wrote:
There is no ratio, power=fun unless you call that a 1:1 ratio


Guess I can't argue with that. Ok How about "Power -to- Drivabilty" ratio??
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always build biggest you can and a lot at least 700$ for good flowing heads ( for your combo). Big dailys can be mellow with driveability if built appropriately. Yes run the 82 stroke. I'd also build with 94s too if u can since its a bug especially now.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asbill71 wrote:
Ok a few things have changed. I still have the same parts, but the engine with be going into a lowered (alot) 57 Bug. I am not sure I can run an oil sump and I would like to avoid anything that would cause heating issues. That said I love to put my foot in it. Should I still build the 2110? Will it rquire an oil sump and lots of things to make and keep it reliable? Or maybe I would be better building something smaller. I have another virgin block and could buy a new crank. I appreciate any help. I have the money but am seeking advice before I pull the trigger.


the CCs of the engine does not have much to do with how hot it runs.
You need a improved oil pickup, if does not have to have any extra capacity, just suck good. Prevent slurping, Like a tuna can

The engine will live or die depending on how good it fits together and the quality of parts, I don't think you got the guts to drive a slammed bug hard enough to beat out the case with that "long"stroke. Very Happy
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asbill71
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
I don't think you got the guts to drive a slammed bug hard enough to beat out the case with that "long"stroke. Very Happy


LOL.... Don't you "double-dog-dare-me" or I will...LOL I appreciate the help guys. I really want to build as big as I can. I only have a set of Dell 40's to run right now and picking up some other carbs would cost more $$$.
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean "only"?
40 DRLA carbs are great! there is nothing better
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Asbill, see if this strikes your fancy:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265227&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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