Overheating in 50 degree weather?

alexvw · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:59 pm Post subject:

I am having the same gas problem getting into the oil. If I add gaskets between the fuel pump and plastic spacer piece, will I have to worry about too low of fuel pressure? Will it not pump fast enough to keep the engine running? I have already replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carb,new volume control screw + float, adjusted valves, timed the engine, changed oil multiple times (also have electronic ignition, no need to set points) and still have the same thing happening.. I am stuck Evil or Very Mad

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1974 Volkswagen Superbeetle( Mitsubishi 4G63T Swap in Progress )

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AlteWagen · Troll Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8501 Location: PNW

while the engine is running, use a mirror to look down the carb throat. Sometimes the new float valves suck bad and leak even with the correct pressure.

If the valve is bad you will see anywhere from big drops to a steady stream of gas pouring out of the main discharge tube. With a partially pressurized carb once shut down raw gas continues to pour out of the tube, down the manifold, past the valves and past the rings.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

I think the manual says the pump should put out 2.8psi. It also says use gaskets to get to that range. I paid around $10 for a pump from Harbor.

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craigman · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:51 am Post subject:

How do you know it's running hot?
Do you have a oil temp gauge?
Do you have a head temp gauge?
Is the oil running hot?
Is the heads running hot?

You need to find out what it's doing first before you can try to solve the problem.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:29 am Post subject:

Have you entertained the idea of debris in the tank, a blocked fuel tank screen, outlet, crimped flex hose under the tank or restricted tunnel tube?

Ive had VW's run 230 F under the decklid and never indicated issues with vapor locking.
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AlteWagen · Troll Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8501 Location: PNW

Have you checked the filter INSIDE the gas tank? There is a small plastic cone or brass screen filter that goes on top of the exit pipe in the tank itself. If there is too much rust or crap inside the tank filter it will suffer the same symptoms you describe

craigman · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:38 am Post subject:

Glad to hear you "think" you know what's going on. If you "think" it's running hot, I would try and find out why instead of playing the guessing game. If you had a oil and head temp gauges this would tell you where to start looking for problems.
It sounds like one of your problems is a dirty fuel system. You mentioned your filter was dirty. Start by cleaning the tank, lines, ect.

Just for info, I ran my 1904 with dual 44 Webers without any decklid stand offs or tennis ball in 100* weather without any problems. (and yes I have both oil and head temp gauges) With a stockish motor you should have no need for decklid stand offs.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:07 pm Post subject:

Not at all saying you're wrong, but dont overlook the very basics.
Ive had fuel line restrictions that would act very much like your problem. I had a fuel line leak that sucked air every once in a while that acted very similar, plus a partially blocked fuel filter with less than 100 miles after it was replaced.
Even on those that I was able to easily draw fuel from the rear.

Of course it also sounds like vapor lock. My only problem is you have remidied many of the most common issues that causes that. The air and engine would have to really be roasting under the hood to cause vapor lock now. the ole cool water trick may help diagnose that.

"T" eeing in the supply/vacuum side will tell you if a restriction is an issue. Just be sure to "T" at the rear first, and have the gauge where you can watch it while driving. If you see it drop deep in vacuum you have a problem.

If you dont all ready..... carry a fire extinguisher.

If you're testing properly you will have a long flex fuel hose all ready.
You can always use the long length of fuel flex hose and temporary route it from the tank to the pump. If the problem is elminated, its a restriction. Yes its crude, but it is good fuel supply diagnosis.

What ever you do be sure to keep the information in one post from now on. That way we arent throwing the same stuff back at you..
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

craigman · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:40 pm Post subject:

Doesn't matter if your tank is new. You said your fuel filter was dirty. Your getting dirt from somewhere. Find out where it's coming from.
You have to start with the basics first.
Make sure you have CLEAN gas without any restrictions.
Make sure your tune up is correct. Correct heat range plugs, correct crank pulley with the correct timing marks. (yes there is different ones for different years)
Make sure you have all the correct cooling tin in place.
Correct fan for that shroud?
Is the heater boxes hooked up and functioning correctly?

You HAVE to verify these things first before you just start assuming or fixing things.
If your runnng hot in 50* weather there is something wrong. Find out why.
Basics man, basics..

Teeroy

Make sure non of the fuel lines (metal or cloth) are lying on the cylinder tin or intake manifold or preheat. Any of these can cause you vapor lock problems as well. Make sure your good tank or fuel cap is vented as well.
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crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

I ordered a new metal fuel line but haven't installed it yet. Still waiting for the standoffs, new distributor, oil filter and low restriction muffler to come in before working on the bug. What's the best way of positioning the metal tube? Right now the old one is level with the sparkplugs and below the left-side manifold. Do I bend the new one into a large bow so that it arches over the tinware and manifold? I haven't seen any photos of engines where it was done that way.

crvc

Teeroy · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:47 am Post subject: Overheating in 50 degree weather?

Max , missed that until I reread the thread.

On a DP it would clip into the spark plug wire holder and then through a grommet in the firewall tin. It should go over the manifold as going between it would absorb heat, should be air space around the line from the pump all the way to the firewall tin. Once through the tin , make sure the hose isn't touching the heater box outlet or body to heater box hose.
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Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

craigman · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:12 am Post subject:

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

I bought the distributor over a year ago. It came with Petronix electronic ignition that died 6 months ago. I went back to the old dizzy while waiting for the warranteed replacement. I already had the fuel filter as well but ordered a new can. I've had the low restriction muffler several years. It's a cheapie I ordered from JC Whitney at least two bugs ago. The fuel line is at least 10 years old and has been bent and rebent resulting in several kinks. I'm hoping I don't need the standoffs but they were the cheapest thing I bought.

The carb and generator are new as well. All the rest seem to be holding up.

It's my daily driver and I live in a small town. When I've broken down on the road the whole town knows about it quick. This is mining and cattle country. Husbands drive pickups, wives might have new beetles but I got the only old bug in this town.

crvc

craigman · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:35 am Post subject:

Ok, since you don't seem to be listening, i'll try to make this real simple.
1) is ALL your cooling tin in place?
2) do you have the correct spark plugs?
3) what is your timing set at? If it's retarded it can run hot.
4) do you have a CLEAN supply of fuel?
5) do you have the correct fan for the shroud you have?
6) is anything blocking the intake of the fan? Reach in there and find out.
7) is the fan tight where it bolts the the back of the generator?
8- is the fan belt tight?
9) is your thermostat working correctly? If in doubt, wire it open and take it for a drive and see what happens.

These are thing you need to do FIRST before you buy or change one single part. If you don't you are just wasting time and money.
Now just don't assume you know all the answers here, go out and double check everything and report back to us.


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Overheating in 50 degree weather?
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