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The Type 4 Engine Thread FAQ
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should have the mixture pipes on, or engine may run roughly.
009 is fine, just time it at full advance.
You need brake vacuum or brakes will be very hard to use.
Which Carb, left or right, do you need? And there are some in classifieds...
Punctuation is nice.
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:23 pm    Post subject: Type 4 Removal from my 56 Rag. Does this look Kosher? Reply with quote

Hey all, just removed the type 4 from my 56 rag. I have a few questions.

1) Can the hole in the front of the case that goes through to the clutch be covered up? Or does it serve a purpose? I would think it would promote grime etc... and I am trying to make this baby shine.

2) Does this dipstick look right? I thought the type 4's required a bolt on dipstick port. It is super tight and difficult to pull the actual dipstick out.

3) I removed it due to the clutch not working.. Think I found the problem.. TO Bearing was toast...

4) Anyone recognize the clutch? I'm thinking of replacing the entire clutch while I'm in here. Maybe a Kennedy. I think it's a 210 from the markings.

5) I want to clean this engine up and make it show quality. Degreaser and a pressure washer? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

6) Anything else look off to you?

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rustbus
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that hole in the front is supposed to have a small plastic plug in it from the factory. the old beat up ones dont stay in so good, but a nice one that hasnt been messed with much stays put. sorry no picture in the classifieds

that engine is from a car, not a bus, as such the dipstick is mounted on top as you have. its supposed to be perfectly vertical, that's why it is hard to use. maybe it was hitting your decklid? you could shorten both tube and dipstick and make new marks if you were patient and careful.

pressure washer tends to push grime and grit far into places it shouldnt go. I'd vote hand work, sorry. little brushes, degreaser cleaners, and rags. make sure you carefully plug all openings before you get started.
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good info about the plug, I will start looking around for one.

The engine is from a 914 I think so that makes sense.

I will definitely cover all the openings and holes but the engine is going to be completely torn down and rebuilt in the next few weeks. Hoping we don't find more wrong with it.

Thanks for the info, I really do appreciate it.
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aerosurfer
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top plastic piece of a rainbird inground sprinkler head fits perfect as a cap with a perfect lip too. Use a piece of aluminum tape to hold it
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cvav8or wrote:
Good info about the plug, I will start looking around for one.

The engine is from a 914 I think so that makes sense.

I will definitely cover all the openings and holes but the engine is going to be completely torn down and rebuilt in the next few weeks. Hoping we don't find more wrong with it.

Thanks for the info, I really do appreciate it.



Rustbus got most of it. Its a GA series....and WAS a 2.0L 914 engine....uh...what do the heads look like? 3 or 4 intake bolts? If its 3...sell the heads to the Porsche philes nd get almost enough to rebuild the engine.

Yes...the dipstick tube is bent.

The clutch PP is a stock Sachs 215...fits a whole range of German vehicles. Porsche, VW...some Saabs and Volvos. It would be a great clutch...but it looks like it lost a lot of metal from the TO bearing.

Yes, there was a three prong plastic plug for the hole. The hole is to remove the three boolts that hold the flexplate to the torque converter on cars with automatics. Ray
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:44 pm    Post subject: 914-4 2.0 Reply with quote

Spark plug angle is a dead give away Cool

Actually the P P is a 210 on this engine
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
cvav8or wrote:
Good info about the plug, I will start looking around for one.

The engine is from a 914 I think so that makes sense.

I will definitely cover all the openings and holes but the engine is going to be completely torn down and rebuilt in the next few weeks. Hoping we don't find more wrong with it.

Thanks for the info, I really do appreciate it.



Rustbus got most of it. Its a GA series....and WAS a 2.0L 914 engine....uh...what do the heads look like? 3 or 4 intake bolts? If its 3...sell the heads to the Porsche philes nd get almost enough to rebuild the engine.

Yes...the dipstick tube is bent.

The clutch PP is a stock Sachs 215...fits a whole range of German vehicles. Porsche, VW...some Saabs and Volvos. It would be a great clutch...but it looks like it lost a lot of metal from the TO bearing.

Yes, there was a three prong plastic plug for the hole. The hole is to remove the three boolts that hold the flexplate to the torque converter on cars with automatics. Ray


It does in fact have 3 intake bolts. I was actually thinking of replacing the heads so this is very interesting to hear. Thanks raygreenwood.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes....how could I miss that stamped in 210!

The 914 2.0 heads are Porsche only. Make the best HP of the bunch...but they take unique sheet metal because....as mentioned the different plug angle. They are also very prone to heat cracking and most you find ...after 40+ years...need extensive welding. new seats etc.

So...if you are lucky and they are good and just need new seats, valves and basic rebuild....put in the correct cam and pistons and you have a 110 hhp engine.....but very unsuitable for a bus. Short life.

If yoou had a 914...or even a 411/412 to put that engine into....and did not care that it was "Porsche correct"....you could do better and much more reliable for about the same price with new AMC castings....Porsche knock-offs with correct chambers and plug angles...from HAM for about what it would take to rebuild those heads....if they aren't in great shape.

So...since its for a bus...right?.....clean them up, have a machine shop check them for cracks...and if there are no cracks....put them on the the market for about $300-350 each. Ray
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is for my 56 Rag Bug...... Overkill I know and I will be stepping up to 2200 or 2270cc Smile I want a screamer plus I like to cruise on the highway.
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PP 210 = 200 clutch right? Not a 215?

EDIT: It looks like all the pressure plates are stamped with PP 210 regardless of the size..... I will measure mine.

I plan to order this:

http://type4store.com/products/clutch-flywheel-pressure-plate/200mm-stg-1-complete-combo.html
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: type 4-store Reply with quote

Yes sir' that will work in your bug and a fair price also.

Other parts needed: ALL NEW

Cross shaft
Bushing kit
T.O. Bearing & clips
5 Flywheel bolts
1 Flywheel Lock Plate
1 Pilot Bearing
1 Felt ring
1 Flywheel Seal
1 flywheel O' Ring

AND.....Someone with flywheel Shims to reset your endplay
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cvav8or
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:39 pm    Post subject: Re: type 4-store Reply with quote

old DKP driver wrote:
Yes sir' that will work in your bug and a fair price also.

Other parts needed: ALL NEW

Cross shaft
Bushing kit
T.O. Bearing & clips
5 Flywheel bolts
1 Flywheel Lock Plate
1 Pilot Bearing
1 Felt ring
1 Flywheel Seal
1 flywheel O' Ring

AND.....Someone with flywheel Shims to reset your endplay


old DKP driver - Thank you so much. I was going to ask what else I should order to do this rebuild right. Thank you for your input.

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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Misc. Parts Reply with quote

You should be able to find these other parts needed from local suppliers
IF, they stock Quality parts. (always ask)

but, I would go ahead and order the 5 flywheel bolts with the clutch assembly & flywheel.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cvav8or wrote:
PP 210 = 200 clutch right? Not a 215?

EDIT: It looks like all the pressure plates are stamped with PP 210 regardless of the size..... I will measure mine.

I plan to order this:

http://type4store.com/products/clutch-flywheel-pressure-plate/200mm-stg-1-complete-combo.html



Actually 210=210 its a different PP than a 200 and a 215 does in general say 215 and it is a different PP as well with (oddly) smaller bolts than the 210....but you can use a 200 disc with either.
Personall6...I would not use a smaller disc with a larger PP or flywheel. In the long run it leaves a wear line in both outside of the disc edge. 210 discs are not hard to find....or any clutch rebuild shop can rebuild the disc to exact size for cheap. Ray
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CrRusty
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If my memory is correct, the 914 flywheel is different from a bay window flywheel. They visually look similar but there dimensional differences. Maybe someone else can elaborate
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 914 flywheel has a different spacing for the ring gear. Its about 5mm difference and will not work with a standard starter without work. Also....and dont quote me on this....but I thought the 914 flywheels were forged and not cast but that may only be the 228mm...which the 914 2.0 should have had....so this is not the original flywheel.

If you had a forged 914 flywheel....in good shape....no cracks etc....it would sell for a nice sum as well. Ray
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Subscribed! Good info! Very Happy
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

210 PP was '72 to "74 IIRC. The starter is from an automatic, looks like. Should have different one with a shaft?? Also note there is no oil coooler? Are you using the T4 fan? How are you cooling oil? The oil dipstick tube needs to be straightened. What tranny do you have?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1967250s wrote:
210 PP was '72 to "74 IIRC. The starter is from an automatic, looks like. Should have different one with a shaft?? Also note there is no oil coooler? Are you using the T4 fan? How are you cooling oil? The oil dipstick tube needs to be straightened. What tranny do you have?


The Tranny is a Type 1 with the Conversion from Jake Raby/Type 4 Store and welded 3rd and 4th... For cooling I have the Jake Raby DTM setup as well as an inline fan type oil cooler. The dipstick..... Yes I'm aware as it's a bitch tog et out and in. I take the engine into my Type 4 guy this week and hope he can straighten the dipstick out.

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