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thewalrus
Big Jack
Joined: March 27, 2006
Posts: 3014
Location: Belchertown, MA
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 Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Any one know where I could find just the tail pipe for a '72-'74 muffler?
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'73 Transporter 1.7L Dual Carb
| notchboy wrote: |
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| 60vwnewengland wrote: |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:18 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Look carefully and check part numbers. There is a left and right veraion. They do not interchange.
The left version seem to be commonlh available. Have not seen a right exit in years.
Also for the record.....the center exit muffler systems are called a damper type. They are the most quiet....but also VERY restrictive and hot running compared to the left or right exit versions.
Ray |
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thewalrus
Big Jack
Joined: March 27, 2006
Posts: 3014
Location: Belchertown, MA
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| Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:50 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
Look carefully and check part numbers. There is a left and right veraion. They do not interchange.
The left version seem to be commonlh available. Have not seen a right exit in years.
Also for the record.....the center exit muffler systems are called a damper type. They are the most quiet....but also VERY restrictive and hot running compared to the left or right exit versions.
Ray |
Thanks Ray! Mine was a Left exit. The pipe itself rusted off and disappeared one day when I was driving. Woops 
Other than eBay, are the pipes available anywhere else?
_________________
'73 Transporter 1.7L Dual Carb
| notchboy wrote: |
| You ran over some #Vanlife'ers hopes and dreams? |
| 60vwnewengland wrote: |
| Looking forward to next weekend, weed, krunk juice, hookers, blow, hanging with bums, philly, ...the awards! |
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1975 Kombi
Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2007
Posts: 2452
Location: Acton, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:53 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Not sure if this is a left or right?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1514704
There is also a gasket kit needed to mount between the pipe and the muffler. It's sort of a 3 piece squish gasket I think.
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Brett
“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.
75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
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Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v |
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thewalrus
Big Jack
Joined: March 27, 2006
Posts: 3014
Location: Belchertown, MA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:28 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Just an update, this is what's left of my muffler:
It's definitely a Left Exit style which makes it either item# 4 or 5 in these schematics:
http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/catalogues/Typ4/index-sd.html#/122
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'73 Transporter 1.7L Dual Carb
| notchboy wrote: |
| You ran over some #Vanlife'ers hopes and dreams? |
| 60vwnewengland wrote: |
| Looking forward to next weekend, weed, krunk juice, hookers, blow, hanging with bums, philly, ...the awards! |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:41 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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think thru the replacement. When an exhaust pipe rusts away that bad, the main body is not long for life usually. Look for a used one if you can so you don't spend a lot on the pipe only to find the muffler burns thru this summer.
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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thanks to jerseylooker. No part number but it looks like number 4.
Good luck
Tcash |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 10:36 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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No.....its a little harder than that....... the stub that is left is not weldable and getting a crimp and curve there that seals right on that muffler is hard to do. Been there.
As for the mufflee not being far behind.....no not usually with that type. The damper style muffler will go through tail pipes about 2 or 3 to 1 before wearing out the muffler body.
They are different inside. The tailpipe wears out because it gets hot as hell. Just about the hottest part of that muffler right near that joint. Its also very quiet.....and easily 15-20% more restrictive than the end exit. Thats why it gets so hot in the center. Ray |
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pmmullins
Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2015
Posts: 2
Location: Elora Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:47 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Does anyone know where I can find information confirming the lengths of the M8 bolts that are used to re-assemble the type 4 block...
I'm referring to the bolts numbered 27, 28, 35, and 72 (and the one adjacent to the cam shaft cap (located inside the bell housing area) in the above diagram. I have a 2.0 litre 914 that I'm rebuilding, I have the 6 main bolts but the remainder of the engine casing bolts are missing
Thanks |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50334
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| Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| pmmullins wrote: |
Does anyone know where I can find information confirming the lengths of the M8 bolts that are used to re-assemble the type 4 block...
I'm referring to the bolts numbered 27, 28, 35, and 72 (and the one adjacent to the cam shaft cap (located inside the bell housing area) in the above diagram. I have a 2.0 litre 914 that I'm rebuilding, I have the 6 main bolts but the remainder of the engine casing bolts are missing
Thanks |
I would just pull the tape measure out of my pocket, measure them up, write the results down as I go, and then head to the hardware store to purchase the replacements.
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| pmmullins wrote: |
Does anyone know where I can find information confirming the lengths of the M8 bolts that are used to re-assemble the type 4 block...
I'm referring to the bolts numbered 27, 28, 35, and 72 (and the one adjacent to the cam shaft cap (located inside the bell housing area) in the above diagram. I have a 2.0 litre 914 that I'm rebuilding, I have the 6 main bolts but the remainder of the engine casing bolts are missing
Thanks |
thanks to jersylooker
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/EarlyBaywindow/EarlyBay-1.html |
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pablovent
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2010
Posts: 900
Location: Chile
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| Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:31 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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Hi Guys;
I need info specs for my 1.8 type4 (type127?) industrial engine.....I want increase performance for my street legal buggy.
Regards... |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:54 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| pablovent wrote: |
Hi Guys;
I need info specs for my 1.8 type4 (type127?) industrial engine.....I want increase performance for my street legal buggy.
Regards... |
The T4 1800 from an automobile would be a fantastic engine for a buggy; it really sings at higher RPMs, and the oil filtration is better than any janky hose setup that EMPI sells. 
Tell us more about your intake (carbs or fuel injection) and what distributor/spark system you have. A few pictures would help too, in case there are any industrial-specific items like governors that we can help you remove and sell to a collector. 
Robbie
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pablovent
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2010
Posts: 900
Location: Chile
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| Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:13 am Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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thank you......when this engine was purchased had no distributor, alternator and coil ..... Only 36-40 PDSI carburetors installed, the rest of the engine and tins is complete and very good, never opened the case. We know to be modify and make a reconstruction for use on the street.
It would be nice to know have valve size, pistons and cam inside info. |
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beetleman217
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2011
Posts: 515
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 12:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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This is a great informative thread!
I'm currently replacing pistons on my 2.0 Westy engine and am not sure about the hydraulic lifters. I've taken the heads, push rods and tubes out but have not pulled the lifters. I believe they are hydraulic as this is a late ('77) bus engine. Also, when looking them through their bores in the case, I see that they have some sort of a metal wire retainer over them.
I replaced the pistons and heads and am ready to assemble the heads to the case. Should I worry about the lifters? Tom Wilson book describes how to prime them, but I never took them out in the first place. Can I install the push rod and tubes and then the heads without ever messing with the lifters?
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1977 Westfalia
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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you really want to put the same lifter and pushrod back in the same bore it came from - especially the lifters as they have worn in with the cam. Use a magnet to determine if the pushrods are aluminum or steel. That will tell you is they are hydraulic or solid. Some solid lifters have retaining clips also.
Were it me I would pull the lifters one at a time (put it back before pulling the next one) and see if the bottoms were still convex - like a magnifying lens. You can put a flat edge on them. If the convex is worn away then they are beginning to wear the cam. When that happens this is becomes the typical wear pattern:
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| Some solid lifters have retaining clips also. |
Would you have a pic of one of these?
Tcash |
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Vanapplebomb
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5407
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 8:02 pm Post subject: Re: The Type 4 Engine Thread |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| pablovent wrote: |
Hi Guys;
I need info specs for my 1.8 type4 (type127?) industrial engine.....I want increase performance for my street legal buggy.
Regards... |
The T4 1800 from an automobile would be a fantastic engine for a buggy; it really sings at higher RPMs, and the oil filtration is better than any janky hose setup that EMPI sells.
Tell us more about your intake (carbs or fuel injection) and what distributor/spark system you have. A few pictures would help too, in case there are any industrial-specific items like governors that we can help you remove and sell to a collector.
Robbie |
That's a good starting point for a build. Cylinder heads are going to be the nice 41x34 intake/exhaust valves. Good breathing heads capable of supporting a lot of power without machine work. Strong heads too. 1.8 and 1.7 heads were the best of the bunch. Those carbs are good for a bit of power. European 412's ran 75 and 85 hp on those carbs. 28mm and 30mm vents respectively. Rev happy engines. They had higher compression though. The 85hp engine was running 8.5:1. Your industrial engine is going to be significantly lower because the pistons had big dishes in them, just like the bus pistons. I believe the 1.8 industrial engine was good for ~68hp in the stock configuration. There were variations in camshafts as well, but they were very minor, so much so you probably couldn't tell one from another just by driving...really just a slight timing adjustment to make a cam originally ground for carbs to work with a somewhat pickey fuel injection system sensitive to intake timing, pulses, etc...
You got a great foundation, if you could just get that compression up you could be in good shape. Even if you could get that up to 8:1, you will probably notice a change. The Ljet 412/914 Pistons have a smaller dish that will put you at about 7.6-7.8:1. These are the most common 1.8 Pistons sold. I cheated to get more compression. I removed the head gaskets and shaved the piston crowns. This allowed me to run a slightly tighter deck (don't want to go tonight) and reduce the piston dish cc's. That combination will push you over the 8:1 mark if well executed.
Hope that gives you some inspiration!
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