Joined: October 17, 2011 Posts: 139 Location: Oregon
Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:20 pm Post subject: CV snap ring removal
I'm considering notching my spring plates to get 1.5" more down travel on my stock 74 Bug. I'm concerned about overextending the CV's. Can i remove the outer snap rings from the driveshafts to allow them to float on the splines , thus extend the cv end movement and angle.
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 1171 Location: Yooper Land Michigan
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:11 am Post subject:
Anything other than the stock cv joints will require a different, or modified cv flange and stub axle.
You can buy new conversion flanges and stub axles.
Type 2 (bus) 100mm cv joints can operate at 17 degrees with a maximum extension of 19 degrees. Type 4, also 100mm, can operate just over twenty, and 930 porsche cv joints are safe at 25 degrees. There is no real point in dropping the big bucks on the 930's if your not planning to push your max angle over twenty degrees. I would stick with bus or type 4 cv joints. Either should work just fine for you
To run 100mm cv joints on a stock suspension and transmission, here is what you gota do...
The drive flanges on the transmission have to come off and be replaced by larger 100mm cv flanges. You can get used VW Thing cv flanges, but they cost just as much in not more than aftermarket flanges which are just as good...so, yeah, just buy aftermarket flanges. They are 35-40 bucks each. You will need two, like this...
They come off pretty easy. Here is a cheesy video I took that shows what ya gota do to get them off. In the beginning of the video, you can see the new aftermarket ones that will be going on. To put them on, just reverse the process. If you use a SHARP tool the covers pop off real easy and you can reuse them. A blunt object will work...kinda...but it's not nearly as easy, and you will probably damage the covers.
Ok, so now the stub axles. Don't buy new ones. I think they are more expensive than what they are worth. Have a bit of patients on this one. Shop around for used VW Thing, Porsche 924, and 944 stubs. Keep in mind that late 944's, used a different style of bearing carrier so the stub is quite a bit different. If it looks just like a VW beetle stub, its the one you want. They were found on early (pre mid 80's) non turbo models. You can often pick up a good used pair of these stubs for the price of only a single aftermarket one!!! Used is good. I got these early porsche 944 stubs for 60 bucks. You cant even buy ONE aftermarket for that! They look just like beetle ones, only they have a slightly larger flange.
Once you have your flanges and stubs, then you can pick your choice of bus (type 2) or type 4 (thing and early porsche 924/944)cv's.
Your axles should be the same length as your beetle axles, but your splines need to be longer because the cv joints are thicker. Thing axles work, and I think some of those early porsche 924/944 ones do as well...I cant help you much with those. I don't know much about porsche axles. Sorry.
You know what I did? I just bought the aftermarket complete empi axle assembles for the VW Things (part number 90-6905). They use bus joints (not thing type 4 joints) which is all I really need, just like you. This is what they look like out of the box...
The axles come pre assembled and greased. All you have to do is bolt them on! The name EMPI scares some people, because lets face it, many of their parts are crappy. HOWEVER, EMPI makes good cv joints! They are the largest OEM cv joint manufacturer out there today, and believe me, they know how to make a proper cv joint. If your using a basically stock engine the axles will be strong enough. Stroker engines can snap them if you shock them hard with your foot into the gas.
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 1171 Location: Yooper Land Michigan
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:14 am Post subject:
Oh, and don't pay more than 80 bucks for one of those axle sets. You will see prices all over the board, any where from 55 dollars, all the way up to 130 dollars. Don't be fooled, they are all the same.
Keep an eye on those rubber boots. After the first couple years, they might start to rip. Replacements are cheep. When they look worn, replace them with new ones, or something better. I will admit, empi skimps out on the boots with these things.
A step up from the bus cv joints would be too get empi "off road type 2" cv joints. They can take a lot of angle. More than a type 4, less than a 930. You can pull the bus cv joints, sell them, and use that money plus a little extra to go towards these ones with more articulation should you ever need it down the road. _________________ Berrien 295
Joined: October 17, 2011 Posts: 139 Location: Oregon
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:59 am Post subject:
Vanapplebomb wrote:
Oh, and don't pay more than 80 bucks for one of those axle sets. You will see prices all over the board, any where from 55 dollars, all the way up to 130 dollars. Don't be fooled, they are all the same.
Keep an eye on those rubber boots. After the first couple years, they might start to rip. Replacements are cheep. When they look worn, replace them with new ones, or something better. I will admit, empi skimps out on the boots with these things.
A step up from the bus cv joints would be too get empi "off road type 2" cv joints. They can take a lot of angle. More than a type 4, less than a 930. You can pull the bus cv joints, sell them, and use that money plus a little extra to go towards these ones with more articulation should you ever need it down the road.
Joined: December 09, 2011 Posts: 586 Location: Oregon
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 9:57 pm Post subject:
You can also run the type 1 stub axles by machining the outer lip off and redrill and tap them for the type 2 bus CV bolt pattern. My friend did mine for $50.00. I'm not sure what axles I'm running, just thh ones my dad told me to run. I don't run snap rings on them either, they just float in there.
Joined: February 22, 2004 Posts: 738 Location: palatka, fl
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:17 pm Post subject:
You might need longer shocks. I think the stock shock will only extend about another quarter or half an inch. You can pull the lower shock bolt to see how much more it will extend _________________ Remember, kids------> KCR Transmissions SUCKS
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