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Sandrail build w/ mikuni carbs
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How come I cant see the pics??
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know why you can't see the pix, I've checked it on a couple of computers, and I have been able to see them.

Update: taking everything apart again to do one last check for bad welds before painting. I'm thinking of doing it a florescent green and doing the engine, trans ans suspension parts black... any thoughts?

also, my stock vw gas pedal broke off... I'm thinking of building a new pedal for it, bit it seems all of the stock pedal stuff will get in the way... has anybody tried putting in a different gas pedal while leaving the clutch and brake pedals alone?
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just go with a roller pedal in the stock location. Where did it break?
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It broke where the stock pedal pivots from... a roller would probably work fine
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So... the rail is now painted, I will post pics shortly, but I'm having some issues with the engine.

First: cylinder 2 seems to be misfiring. It will obsessionally pick up, but it is really hit and miss. usually picks up about 2500-3000 rpm

Second: I have oil (possibly w/ gas mixed in) coming out of my breather at high rpm

I am on my way to pick up a compression tester to check all the cylinders (particularly no. 2). but i wanted to see what everyone had to say. To me it sounds like I have a ton of blow by, and I am filling up my oil with gas, but I'm not sure.

I am running a 1600 w/ custom mikuni carbs, a sand sealed pulley, and only the stock breather on the oil filler, if that helps.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would find a set of dual Kadron manifolds the adapt them to mount the carbs as close to the head as possible. It will make the carbs a little easier to tune and give you better performance.
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, i haven't checked the compression yet, but I did change the oil, it had a ton of gas in it, probably because the fuel pump I have was pushing to much pressure before the regulator got put on and was flooding the system. Just for fun, I started it up after changing the oil, and it was hitting all four cylinders again. it must have just washed the rings while it was running rich. I will probably still check the compression a little bit later.

Anyway, here are the pics of it painted-

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
I decided to go with white fading into green

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
you can see the new lights on top, WAY better than the old ones. When I get a little more $$$ i will probably put a couple more on

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Also, this is the gauge/switchbox I came up with and made, I think it looks pretty sharp.
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lostinbaja-

that was the design I originally wanted to do, but the carbs I have won't allow me to do that without quite a bit of fabrication... I would have to change the linkage on the carbs, and do quite a bit to my frame or the kadron manifolds to make it work out right.... eventually I may do it, but for the time being, I don't have the time, money, or ambition Smile
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vw_nick
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you might want to take care of the sharp edges of your switch box if you plan to go off road... get into a rough spot with your arms / legs bouncing around uncontrolled and you could suffer some injury there. I cut a slice in some fuel hose and glued it onto such edges on a panel I made...
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I actually have some vacuum line that I have already put on, it just want on in the picture because I took the picture right after I put it in
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I need some help. I'm sure there is a post about this somewhere, but I can't seem t o find anything. I was driving the rail up in the hills by where I live, I look down and see that one of my front trailing arms is about to fall off... not a good thing to see when you are miles from the truck Sad .

Anyway, I got it home and tore the front end apart to find that all of the leafs in my lower beam were broken. I got some new leafs, but i am having a really hard time getting it put back together. I was wondering if anyone has some tips or tricks on how to put it back together? I have been working on it for a couple of days now, and it still isn't all the way back together
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JWHracing
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i was putting the arms and leafs back in my beam i used 2 hose clamps to get everything centered. (the dimple hole) put the packs with the grub screw tightened down in an arm. then take off your hose clamp closest to the end going into the beam, or slide it towards the arm as you slide it in. take your time and don't be afraid to wiggle it around. as long as you tighten the grub screw at the arm the pack should stay aligned and in a nice square. feed it through. stick the arm on the other side, make sure the dimple is lined up with the hole in the arm, put your grub screw back in and there you go. hopefully that makes since.
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I'll try that tonight when I get off work
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been a while since anything has been done with the rail, but it did make a trip to the dunes this weekend... I thought I'd put some pics up. I wrecked my Voltage regulator, so we had to stay pretty close to the truck, but it was running decent for sure.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I took the rail out for a ride the other day, and thought i would get some pics as it has been a while since I posted. The carb setup is still working really well, but i am thinking that I want to come up with some sort of accelerator pump for them. I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to keep the carbs I have and add an accelerator pump. I have a couple of ideas, but i wanted to put the question out there and see what everyone says first.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Everything was going well until I decided to take a fourwheeler trail that i hadn't been on before. As it turns out, fourwheelers have a little bit tighter turning radius than I do (even with the cutting brakes :0)
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:59 pm    Post subject: My build thread w/ mikuni carbs *edit* and a turbo!!! Reply with quote

So, It has been a while since I updated this, but I got the buggy out of storage this week and started tinkering.

Also, I got digging through some old parts that I had, and found a small turbo that one of my friends gave me, so I figured that I would try doing a draw-through turbo setup on my car.

In the last couple of days (literally, we started yesterday), here is what we have come up with. It is mostly done, obviously there are some small odds and ends to take care of, but we fired it up and it seems to be working.

Before everyone rags on how crappy it looks, I feel like I should say that it is just a quick mock-up. I wanted to see how a draw through setup would work on my engine, so we gathered up some spare parts and built this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

for some reason the picture of the finished product isn't working, so I will upload that tomorrow (hopefully).

So, now that I am mostly done, does anyone that has done this before have any tips for getting it tuned right?
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, after a long days goofing off in the shop, the turbo is mounted, oil lines run, and it runs!!! it has some killer turbo lag, but when the boost kicks in, it is awesome.

Here are some pictures I took today while working on it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

There is also a short exhaust coming off the turbo that was not on in the pictures. We drove it around for probably around 20 minutes after putting the turbo on, and I really need to figure out an injector pump for this thing. If you don't apply the throttle very quickly, it works great, but if you stomp on it, it will fall on it's face.

Another side note to anyone who may be thinking about trying this: make sure that your crankcase is properly ventilated before putting a turbo on! I found every seal that was leaking on my engine, AND THEN put some vents in my valve covers.
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RailGuy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just blew up my raptor 660, split the block somehow >.< But it has a nice set of mikuni carbs. After seeing this i might put them on my rail.
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jcmyers
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine is doing this too, i've got a new accelerator pump in the mail now, hoping it will fix the issue.
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johnysnyd
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE:

I took the rail out to the sand this weekend. The turbo was working nicely, but unfortunately for me, it was to much power for something... I think I broke whatever holds the flywheel onto the crank.

As of right now, the starter will turn the transmission over (rail moves with starter when in gear), but the engine will not turn over. I will be taking the rail apart this coming week to see what the problem was and hopefully fix it before next weekend.

for what it is worth, before I broke stuff, it felt like there was a significant increase in power
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