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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:23 am Post subject: Project build. Fatty Mc Chub chub. 1969 |
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New to the forum. I have sat on this sight for about 5 days straight now reading and reading. Plans are to completely strip it, sand blast, and then completely restore. Lowering it with air in the front. Two tone color, but havent decided yet.. Pretty sure it will be black and white.
I have ZERO knowledge on bugs. I bit more now that i have been here. I have completely frame off'd a 71 chevy truck, and a few honda civic restores, but this is my first bug. Here is my truck. I did a complete frame off with this. All new patch panel metal installed.
I just picked up this beauty for my wife.
1969 with a 1500. Drives good. It has been restored once i believe because stuff comes off pretty simple. Only has 2 rust spots that i have scene since i have tore it down. I have more pics i will post later.
Here you can see the hole. The other heater area is solid. This one is not.
I put this up to ask some questions and to keep track. Im pulling the body off the pan. Should i be worried about opening the doors while the body is off the pan if i have it sitting on saw horses on the front and rear where the suspension went?
Any other tips to start. Thanks again. |
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Zacharysayre Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2004 Posts: 589 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:26 am Post subject: |
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looks like a great starting point. Good luck with it. _________________ If it ain't steel, it ain't real |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:58 am Post subject: Re: Project build. Fatty Mc Chub chub. 1969 |
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Figured i would add some other pictures i have of the build getting started. The boring stuff.
Picture of the front. It was hit in the front at one time. Im going to be pulling the front end/shortening it and lowering it. How much room is normally between the side of the car and the beam? This just seems close. Might need to get out the hammer.
Just checking out the condition of the fenders. When the PO repainted it, he painted over the black rubber pieces that go between the fender and body.. That allowed water to build up. I think if he didnt do that, there wouldnt be any rust on those fenders.
This pic shows that someone recently did the brakes and painted them up. Someone loved this thing once. lol
Just some more randoms.
The po undercoated the fenders with some thick black material. Only problem is he undercoated it so thick that it held all the water in place against the body.
Thanks for looking.. I will have more questions later. |
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Q-Dog Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 8699 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Unless you are replacing heater channels, you don't need to worry about opening the doors when you remove the body.
Also, that undercoating looks like the typical VW dealer applied stuff. _________________ Brian
'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Q-Dog wrote: |
Unless you are replacing heater channels, you don't need to worry about opening the doors when you remove the body.
Also, that undercoating looks like the typical VW dealer applied stuff. |
Well, i plan on removing the doors and having them sandblasted while everything is apart. Would it be better to have the body on a flat floor while moving or opening the doors? |
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Q-Dog Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 8699 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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On a hardtop car you can open or remove the doors while the body is off the chassis. No problems.
But, all bets are off if you have lots of lower body rot. You should brace the body if you are replacing the heater channels. _________________ Brian
'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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Q-Dog wrote: |
On a hardtop car you can open or remove the doors while the body is off the chassis. No problems.
But, all bets are off if you have lots of lower body rot. You should brace the body if you are replacing the heater channels. |
Luckily it has next to none. Small section in the rear panel, tiny section under the battery. But i wont even have to buy patch panels. SMall enough to make my own.
More pics to come. |
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chrisdiehl Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2011 Posts: 183 Location: middle ga
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Fatty mc chub chub......I like it! Wait, I do believe that's my ex wifes nick name! |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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chrisdiehl wrote: |
Fatty mc chub chub......I like it! Wait, I do believe that's my ex wifes nick name! |
HAHAH Oh you will get a kick out of why i call it that. My wife is 5 foot aboout 110 pounds. My pet name for her is tubs, or chubs, or fatty. I dont know why, her friends look at me like im horrible, but its just a cute name. She knows shes not fat, and shes not. AT ALL! The name just stuck. I told her, when i stop calling her fat, she is probably fat. lol.
So as her friends were looking at the car when i brought it home i said, "hey, fatty mc chub chub, get in the car and drive it around" Thats how the name stuck. lol.
I cant wait to get some good weather so i can tear into this. I have done a few full restorations so this time around, it should be perfect. |
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JerryMCarter1 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6199 Location: N.W. Phoenix
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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Your a perfectionist
You might as well pull every single thing apart and rebuild it !
Jerry _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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JerryMCarter1 wrote: |
Your a perfectionist
You might as well pull every single thing apart and rebuild it !
Jerry |
Im far from a perfectionist. I have a hard time staying patient. I just go to fast cause i want to see what the final product looks like.
I am pulling everything apart. I work so hard on the paint, the last thing i want to see is a little rust bubble coming up from underneath the paint somewhere. |
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JerryMCarter1 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6199 Location: N.W. Phoenix
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Just as a suggestion
The paint is the very last thing I would do
I would get it mechanically in order -- lowering disc brakes –tires wheels – get a wiring harness -- everything including the right power and tranny - then drive it -- like it - then tear it apart for paint.
Get ready to spend some money
Great project !-
I have a finished stock vert (dark navy blue) I will trade into the truck
Jerry _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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JerryMCarter1 wrote: |
Just as a suggestion
The paint is the very last thing I would do
I would get it mechanically in order -- lowering disc brakes –tires wheels – get a wiring harness -- everything including the right power and tranny - then drive it -- like it - then tear it apart for paint.
Get ready to spend some money
Great project !-
I have a finished stock vert (dark navy blue) I will trade into the truck
Jerry |
Trade into the truck?? For my truck?? the one i just built??? The wife did want a convertible. lol.
I spent 17k on my truck to build that from the ground up. I wont spend more then 1000 on this bug. I bought the bug for 1650. I have 1000. I will post and keep track of what im doing. That 1000 does not include paint. Just to get everything perfect.
My actual game plan is exactly as you stated. I drove it around, got it to idle and drive well. NOw that it runs good im tearing into it.
Plan is,
Pull body off.
Remove suspension
remove all stock undercoating
blast/paint/undercoat pan
all new lowered suspension/air/tie rods
wiring
Repair rust on body
interior remove foam
paint/ install body.
Roughly that order. I will be linex'ing the pan. Doing that myself.
Cant wait to get you guys more pics... |
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JerryMCarter1 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6199 Location: N.W. Phoenix
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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Off the frame , new motor , paint tires -- the works $5500- I spent over ten grand
If your truck is a LS2 motor I will offer $8500 and my bug
_________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:59 am Post subject: |
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JerryMCarter1 wrote: |
Off the frame , new motor , paint tires -- the works $5500- I spent over ten grand
If your truck is a LS2 motor I will offer $8500 and my bug
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NO ls2, mild build 454. I dont want to trade. Your bug is beautiful btw. |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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Started tearing apart the interior and ran into some rust i didnt see. Im not to worried about it, but just had a question on how going about getting to the said rust.
here is the pics.
Its the back panel. The rear window i guess has been leaking forEVER from the looks. Can i just cut this back panel off, repair the rust back there, then weld it back in place? Any issues with that?
And here is a question on the front hood. I have the whole where something appears to go through, but on the actual hood there is only a latch. Is something missing there??
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67bugz Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2008 Posts: 135 Location: anaheim, CA
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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yep i dont see the striker that fits into that hole...im pretty sure its called a striker, also make sure that you have the cable for the hood release. _________________ 1984 nissan/datsun 300zx "cortana" RIP officially...you will always be remembered!
1969 volkswagen beetle "SKADOOSH" http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=498767&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
HBB never knew him but being young its a reminder to enjoy every minute and help as many people as you can. I hope his family knows that even now hes touching peoples lives. |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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67bugz wrote: |
yep i dont see the striker that fits into that hole...im pretty sure its called a striker, also make sure that you have the cable for the hood release. |
what about the back panel. Can i cut that out to get to that rust? |
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67bugz Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2008 Posts: 135 Location: anaheim, CA
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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i dont see why not the picture makes it look like its just surface rust, personally on my bug id wire wheel it, and coat it with por15 but im building a baja, not a car for my wife... _________________ 1984 nissan/datsun 300zx "cortana" RIP officially...you will always be remembered!
1969 volkswagen beetle "SKADOOSH" http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=498767&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
HBB never knew him but being young its a reminder to enjoy every minute and help as many people as you can. I hope his family knows that even now hes touching peoples lives. |
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lyrikz Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2011 Posts: 249 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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67bugz wrote: |
i dont see why not the picture makes it look like its just surface rust, personally on my bug id wire wheel it, and coat it with por15 but im building a baja, not a car for my wife... |
Ya, i want to fix it correctly. They make replacement panels from what i found. |
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