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First VW: Journey of my 81' Vanagon
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the two cracks you are worried about are just the seams in the shifter ball cup. it comes in two pieces(unless you are referring to something I do not see). This is what your shift rod should look like http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1119554 and what your shift box should look like (without the rust) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1183436 and here is the only US source for the center bushing that I know of http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1220154. You can do the shifter, clean it up really well, follow the torque specifications in the bently for the bolts (if you do not have a torque wrench get one, I picked up an inch pound and a ft. lbs from harbor freight), and grease it well (I used moly grease). Yours does look neglected so I am sure with some work you will have it working correctly if you remove the shifter part E, make sure you tighten it back to the specifications in the bently and use some locktight on it. Some people did not tighten it back properly and striped out the teeth in the part. which is very difficult to find and not cheap.
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No hard feelings rcb Smile

Back to the topic at hand.. Leaving now for a 30 minute ride up the road to my newly found mechanic. I'll report back my findings in case anyone comes along in the same situation.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got back from the shop. Turns out he's been in the business for 40+ years. Starting out building motorcycles, has built 80+ old beetle engines and really knew his stuff.

Lifted her up for the first time and got a good luck over everything. He said overall the vans in really good condition. Didn't recommend un-needed parts and sat and told me stories for about an hour haha.

He recommended i get a complete gear shift bushing kit
2 front CV joints
and a new valve cover gasket
(front calipers/pads in the near future)

Such a relief Laughing
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is getting the new shift bushing kit that is the problem, it does not exist. And you need to do something about the shifter fork since it is missing the plastic and the box is missing the pad. Get the parts I mentioned and give them to your mechanic to fix it up.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reluctantartist wrote:
It is getting the new shift bushing kit that is the problem, it does not exist. And you need to do something about the shifter fork since it is missing the plastic and the box is missing the pad. Get the parts I mentioned and give them to your mechanic to fix it up.


I found this, which says it is a "BUS SHIFT ROD BUSHING KIT - BUS 54-79 - VANAGON 80-92"
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-711-211

Can you tell if that includes the center bushing that you directed me towards earlier? http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1220154
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't think Vanagons and Bays use the same kit, not even sure all the Bays use the same one. Don't think that kit includes the bushing you need no matter what. The one in the link doesn't looks to be the correct one either for that matter. From another ongoing thread I think this maybe what yours looks like.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not the kit.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just figured 1980-1991 Vanagon included my 1981 Vanagon. Brick wall
the search continues
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish they would fix that (80-91 vanagon). The shift linkage is different for the Vanagon 80-83 vanagons and you can't interchange the parts except for maybe the dust boot (part I), but someone new will have a heck of a time figuring it all out. Check out the stuff I linked to and get your shifter working and get on the road Smile Before the vanagain place started carrying one of the bushings (part J) we had to make a group order to make getting them affordable. I have hunted all over the world via the internet to find shift linkage parts. Parts K and L are the only parts I can't find NOS...I did find a dealership in cenntral america that was taking bids on its inventory that had 1 part K in the listing of parts but I wasn't going to buy a whole inventory to get one part.

If you come up with good substitute solutions, let us know
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I certainly have taken all your advice down and bookmarked the links. I plan to spend the next few days picking the shifting diagram apart and tracking down these parts piece by piece. On sort of a budget at the moment so I'll be sweet talking my more mechanically inclined friends to help me save some money on labor costs. Laughing
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the part numbers busboys uses are correct, so that may help.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually contact vanagain.com last night and Ken e-mailed me back this morning. Really helpful guy. I sent him the diagram you linked me too earlier (http://www.bus-boys.com/shifter8083.jpg) and he replied with...

Quote:
I should be able to help you with all of these:
B- $9
C- $29
J- $24
I- $9
K- $9
L- $5

As far as I know I am the only source for these parts in the US. Many of them have been discontinued, but we have found sources in Germany or alternate parts that work in place of the originals. Let me know if you want to place the order and I can get these on the way to you.


I'll let you guys know how it turns out Smile
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

81'Westfalia wrote:
I'll let you guys know how it turns out Smile


Cool that you located them. Wish it were easier to figure out which vendor had each obscure part. One can sure waste a lot of time searching websites, sending email, and making phone calls just to find a $8 part.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I emailed vanagain, gowesty, aircooled, bus-boys, busdepot all with the same request. Vanagain & gowesty have been the only ones to reply. Go westy said they couldn't get me ANY of the parts and copy & pasted a list of used part suppliers, yet vanagain has access to all.

One part of me wants to create a thread after all this to help the next guy on the hunt for these parts, but another wants him to go through the pain and suffering as I did Laughing
Wildthings wrote:
Cool that you located them. Wish it were easier to figure out which vendor had each obscure part. One can sure waste a lot of time searching websites, sending email, and making phone calls just to find a $8 part.
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is great! Part k is the one I am the most worried about. I will have to see what they came up with.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, can anyone go to the first page of this thread and tell what carb I have? I'm looking into switching over to a svda but want to make sure everything is compatible. I've tried comparing it to other single carbs but I'm having no luck. All I know is empi is on the side.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see Weber written on the choke pull off dashpot, but it is some form of Weber progressive clone. There were all kinds of variations made over the years by several different manufactures. Look for names like Holley, Motorcraft, or Solex.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone clarify what Ken from vanagain told me,
" It looks like the rear shift linkage bolt has come apart. You will need a new one- $110 plus a bushing- $9 and a new boot for $29. "

I have pictures on the 1st/2nd page of this thread of that area. I've googled/searched forum for any hour trying to find pictures of what it's supposed to look like so I could compare what I'm missing but have had no luck.

Does that price seem about right?
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your guide pin looks like the one wild things showed then you need a new one. Otherwise if it is straight you only need part B which the photos show you definitely need.

Go with this:
Quote:

I should be able to help you with all of these:
B- $9
C- $29
J- $24
I- $9
K- $9
L- $5



Unless your guide pin (part A) is actually bent. Then you need the $110 part A.
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81'Westfalia
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went ahead and added the guide pin. After Ken went into a little more detail about it I seen what he was talking about. Although it wasn't bent from what I could see.. I think it'll be a good investment due to the oem guide pin being weak. He was even so kind to offer me a 30 day money back guarentee if I decided I didn't need it.. which even if I don't, I'm putting this fresh one on to ease my mind Smile.

For people with future similar issues:
Quote:
I think part A is also bad and here is why: It is basically a stud and on the end is a plastic piece that is pressed onto the end of the metal stud. The is where the guide ring B sits. This keeps the stud centered in the shift tube. If the end comes off of that stud it can't be replaced. You have to buy a whole new part A. From looking at the picture you can clearly see that the stud is not centered in the tube. Therefore either this end has come off of part A or it is severely worn. Either way I think you are going to find when you take it apart that it needs to be replaced. The new ones we sell are $110 but they are all metal and don't have the plastic end on it.
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