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Was having some trouble with my syncro clutch:
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:04 pm    Post subject: Was having some trouble with my syncro clutch: Reply with quote

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I also found that one of the small bolts that holds the locker actuator to the transmission was missing, explains why my locker didn't seem to be working.

I also need to repack my CV's the pass side is pretty dry and on the drivers side the transmission fluid seal came out and washed all the grease out of the CV.......uh, damm!

Got a new clutch to toss in tomorrow, hopefully all will be right as rain. Also found out that my syncro has a new driveshaft, thats a nice bonus!
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insyncro Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you are at it, order another locker actuator, yours is broken.
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
While you are at it, order another locker actuator, yours is broken.


I sucked on it both directions, seems to be working.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats great, but its missing the post that connects to the locker shaft.
Obviously whoever removed the bolt tried to remove it without taking out the rollpin.

Trust me, I know Syncros and you actuator is missing its post.
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Thats great, but its missing the post that connects to the locker shaft.
Obviously whoever removed the bolt tried to remove it without taking out the rollpin.

Trust me, I know Syncros and you actuator is missing its post.


Since I cannot even see where a roll pin would go, I'll assuming that means its fubared.

Looks like one side took a hit at some point, but since it was missing a bolt that might have rattled out and caused other problems later.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the C clip and two bolts holding the bracket inplace...it will all slide off as the actuator isnt connected to the shaft.

You may need the whole shaft, bushing and actuator if the shaft is buggered up.

Post a pic without the bracket....I'll let ya know just by sight.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that a LUK or Sachs clutch that had the springs break?
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Is that a LUK or Sachs clutch that had the springs break?


Sachs.

There is more backstory here, it was like this when I bought it(years ago, its basically been parked and just shuffled around until now), a couple of years back I took a glance under there to see if I could tell anything, turns out my rear engine/tranny studs had broken, sheared off right where the nut meets the bellhousing, I jury rigged the setup and got it bolted together, thats when I could tell something else was up. Felt like the clutch wasn't releasing properly(duh you can see why). I had a little fluid leak from the slave so I figured it was a good place to start, no change, tossed in a new master, no change. Figured it had to be something internal to the clutch, and put it on the backburner, now here I am over a year later finally getting to replacing the clutch.

Now what all that means, I got no idea, I'm not sure if the bolts sheared first and then caused the clutch to go, or if the clutch went and put strain on things and the pressure of the slave forced it to break or god only knows what.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be checking as much as possible while the trans is out.
There are enough red flags here to warrant doing so.

10:1...the last owner tried to remove the trans or change the starter motor,
removed the top bellhousing bolts, the transmission mount bolts,
slid the trans back, it hit the gas tank and wouldn't it budge, they yanked down and the studs snapped right off.

This could easily destroy the input shaft seal and cause a leak.

If so, I'd check the input shaft splines for abrasions.
You do not want pressure on that shaft during removal or install.

Hey this is all worst case and i wish you luck.

Syncros are fun aren't they.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it back together finally, the exhaust was replaced previously and caused clearance issues with the bellhousing, I had to drop the exhaust down to clear.

Then once I got it back together it wouldn't crank over, would barely turn a bit before stopping, like a super low battery, yet my battery was just fine.

Had to lower the front of the trans again, and toss on a used starter, the autozone reman on there just wasn't turning over. After that it fired right up.

Drove around a little bit, feels good, but now it doesn't want to shift into Low, 2, or 4th. Guess I'll fiddle with the shift linkage and make sure its sliding and shifting good next.

I'll need to order a new locker actuator, after getting the roll pin out I was able to get what was left of the actuator rod out using a magnet, everything else looks good there and the locker is working when actuated by hand.

Always something else to be done.

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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serious magnet.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IdahoDoug wrote:
Serious magnet.


Its a magnet you can turn on and off. its rated to lift a few hundred pounds.

http://www.magswitch.com.au/
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