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Aftermarket power windows and power locks install w/pics
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:52 pm    Post subject: Aftermarket power windows and power locks install w/pics Reply with quote

My weekender did not come with factory power windows and locks. I added the aftermarket power windows couple of years ago but never posted the install. I just recently installed the A-1 keyless entry power locks. I took some photos of both installs.

Even though it was a lot of work for both the installs, having these two features makes it more enjoyable like todays cars. Totally worth it. I hope these pictures and notes will help if someone is interested in these upgrades.


Here are the installs for aftermarket power windows.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I bought the Hoffman Autoloc I think its been while. A-1 also sells the aftermarket ones. Pretty straight forward looking at the pictures. The hardest part was snaking the wiring through the factory rubber boot between door jams. You could use a huge zip tie and tape the wire to the end of zip tie with black tape and push it through the rubber boot. I did all the installs except the wiring and I watched how the pros snaked the wires through.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Drill a small hole on the door panel and voila.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It also illuminates at night which is super nice. It almost looks better then factory. I've had it for two years and so far it has worked great. Passenger side is little bit slower going up but who cares better then reaching over and manually cranking it.

Here are the pictures for A-! power lock install.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I used the factory bracket which made it easier. You have to drill a hole where my finger is pointing so you can tighten the screws to attach the linkage. Note: I did not use the factory holes on the bracket but moved it forward. Rivets also worked awesome to hold the bracket just like the factory. Snaking the wiring through the rubber boot was bit hard just like the power windows and since power window wiring went through the same boot it gets even tighter. Like I said I saw the pros use a huge zip tie and black tape and massaged it through the rubber boot.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

For the sliding door mounting part was straight forward. I went to a hardware store and bought a metal piece for about $6 and cut to make a bracket. I wanted parallel as possible for the linkage so there is least amount of problem down the line. I also used rives to fasten the brackets.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

NOTE: I also cut a small metal piece to weld to the mechanism since mine was not a factory power lock. I believe welding metal piece and drilling a hole is the closest thing to a factory power lock mechanism. I've seen other drill a hole but the link rod has to be bent all kind of different ways which I thought might have more problem down the line. I took it to a muffler shop and they welded for $5 and took 20 seconds.

Factory sliding mechanism
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Drilling a hole to a non factory mechanism without welding a piece
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I did all the installs on the actuators, I called the pro for the wiring in the alarm and snaking the wiring.

The most time consuming part was snaking the wire to the sliding door. You can wire it two different routes.

1. Go behind glove box through the carpet and drill a hole on the B pillar. This is probably the easiest way. Probably take less then 10 minutes.

2. The factory way is up through the side window frame pillar and through the side of the roof and goes thorough the B pillar from the top without drilling any holes. The pro and I took this route took us about good two hours and that was the pro using every snaking trick. Once this wiring was through everything was smooth sailing. Smile

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Note: try to use the factory contacts for the sliding door and take your time matching the contacts.

Total cost for power window Autoloc I bought it for $169 on ebay. $50 pro. wiring only.

Total cost for A-1 Keyless. $150 for kit I did all the install on the actuators with brackets to save money. Pro wiring and alarm $100 (took the pro good 4-5 hours to wire everything in.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Zero419
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job, thanks for the write up and pictures.
I'd love the power locks.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zero419 wrote:
Nice job, thanks for the write up and pictures.
I'd love the power locks.


thanks
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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Whynot,

Excellent post and photos. This task just moved up the to do list a few notches!

-CJ
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presslab
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice writeup. I love my power locks. Did you do the hatch? I found I could modify my sliding door lock, but I needed to buy the power hatch lock.

I wonder if there is a version of the power window-winders that can be manually overriden with the crank. That would be the best of both worlds.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

presslab wrote:
Nice writeup. I love my power locks. Did you do the hatch? I found I could modify my sliding door lock, but I needed to buy the power hatch lock.

I wonder if there is a version of the power window-winders that can be manually overriden with the crank. That would be the best of both worlds.


I didn't do the hatch. Maybe later, too much work for the wiring. Imo power hatch may not be worth the hassle. Sourcing the part and wiring all the way to the back is a lot of work. Plus you still have to push the button to open it.

My power window kit comes with a manual winder incase there is a malfunction. I haven't had to use it.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wanted to give a feed back after the install. I've had the keyless for about week and I'm loving it. Should've done this mod long time ago, especially with all the accessories in the van.


Last night my alarm went off at 1:30 am. I haven't had one false alarm so maybe someone was trying to break in? Who knows. I went outside with with a golf club but didn't find anyone. Needless to say, I'm glad I have alarm now.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how many wires do you need to run to install the power slider lock?

does it need 4 wires?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
does it need 4 wires?


The universal power lock actuator that I used has two wires, as do most of the universal ones. There are others with more wires that can sense if someone manually moves the lock, but for the slider these are kinda pointless. I also used the stock 4-pin contacts, and used only two of the pins.

The original lock actuator has a different kind of wiring than the aftermarket locks.
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DubNuts
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write up and documentation.

I used the same power window kit on my Westy GL.. I liked it but since install have gone through two different motor drives. They work ok in the beginning, but are slow and it seems that cooler temps etc causes more drag on the window wiper rubbers. Soon one of the windows failed. After the 1st motor failed "gears slip etc and seems to loose strenght lifting etc" I thought that maybe it was the way I installed it. But after buying another install kit and that one failed after some use I decided that it must be the kit? Oh-oooo BTW when a window motor fails your need to buy another compete 2 window kit to get the window motor drive to use as parts.
Now i'm in the process of replacing the cable pull kit with a stright up and down push pull electric window kit.
Haven't tackled the replacement power locks yet but will use your info to eaze my install.
Thanks..
..
.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

presslab wrote:
randywebb wrote:
does it need 4 wires?


The universal power lock actuator that I used has two wires, as do most of the universal ones. There are others with more wires that can sense if someone manually moves the lock, but for the slider these are kinda pointless. I also used the stock 4-pin contacts, and used only two of the pins.

The original lock actuator has a different kind of wiring than the aftermarket locks.


Thanks. I added remote power lock/unlock for the F. doors, and currently just reach in from the pass. side door to get the slider unlocked. I may add the slider to this system now that you've figured it out...
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To each his own, but I prefer manual windows on our Westy. That way you can put windows up or down at will without the key being on. Others may like the convenience.

Power locks on the other hand are quite nice. I wired mine so the locks work normally (did not install the feature where if you push down or pull up on the knob they all lock or unlock) but you always can lock/unlock with the fob or the door panel switches in a second.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was my dead-tired thumb in the second pic after threading that steel rod through the drilled out hole on the slider lock mechanism, Embarassed . It's working fine so far, but I like your weld job much better. I'm still kicking myself for not buying a power slider lock on the classifieds a few months ago. Thanks for posting about the power window mod too.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
how many wires do you need to run to install the power slider lock?

does it need 4 wires?



It uses only two wires. My pro install guy used his own wires instead of the ones that came with the kit because the wire that comes with the kit was much thicker. The pro installer used thinner but the inner two wires inside the insulation was the same gauge. If you PM me I'll give you my number so I can explain what I saw the pro installer do to guided the wires to the slider.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DubNuts wrote:
Nice write up and documentation.

I used the same power window kit on my Westy GL.. I liked it but since install have gone through two different motor drives. They work ok in the beginning, but are slow and it seems that cooler temps etc causes more drag on the window wiper rubbers. Soon one of the windows failed. After the 1st motor failed "gears slip etc and seems to loose strenght lifting etc" I thought that maybe it was the way I installed it. But after buying another install kit and that one failed after some use I decided that it must be the kit? Oh-oooo BTW when a window motor fails your need to buy another compete 2 window kit to get the window motor drive to use as parts.
Now i'm in the process of replacing the cable pull kit with a stright up and down push pull electric window kit.
Haven't tackled the replacement power locks yet but will use your info to eaze my install.
Thanks..
..
.


My passenger window was slowing little also so when I took it part to install the power locks what I noticed was the connection for the switches to the motor connection ( yellow and pink wire) was getting bit lose so soldered it and now it works better then new.

So far my windows are working like the day I installed it. Its been over two years. I feel like if the power windows failed I still got more then my money's worth. If I had to buy it again, I would probably guy the A-1 universal power window kit, it seems like they have a better customer support and they're only 20 minutes from my house.


Last edited by whynotvw on Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

singler3360 wrote:
That was my dead-tired thumb in the second pic after threading that steel rod through the drilled out hole on the slider lock mechanism, Embarassed . It's working fine so far, but I like your weld job much better. I'm still kicking myself for not buying a power slider lock on the classifieds a few months ago. Thanks for posting about the power window mod too.



You don't need to buy a power lock mechanism. Just weld the piece of metal and drill the hole. The 4ft metal rod cost was $6 and I was able to use the other pieces for brackets for sliding mechanism. Smile

Thanks for your pictures, it really helped a lot.
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